Tape vs split loom

Let's make it official, tape or loom

  • Home depot great stuff expanding foam in every crack and crevis of you dash!!!

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    17
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Futzy1

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Alright, so I'm not sure if I'm about to kick up a storm here, but I was wondering the advantages/disadvantages of taping a harness vs split loom.

I've done a lot of electrical work in my life, but never really automotive electrical. Now that I'm getting under the dash, I'm finding that the previous owner may have been certifiable. I've had to stop out and replace a couple circuits and now I'm just about ready to get it all neat to tidy. In the past I've always gone for split look, but I know in the car world it's usually non adhesive tape.

Thoughts? Opinions?
 
A vote here for the split loom. Not they way they did it at the factory, but neither is half the other stuff people here do to their cars. Looks neat and is a lot easier to install, or to make changes.
 
Split loom sucks get some harness tape that is NOT adhesive backed.
 
@brian6pac, why'd you have to go and do that. Not only was there consensus, but it agreed with my preexisting opinion. Now I have to go rethink every aspect of my life. Is my name even really futzy1? I dont know anymore.
 
I don't like the look of the split loom. It has a GM appearance.

I always use non-adhesive tape and it works out well for me.
 
Well thanks for the input I've decided just to slather hot glue over everything. Given all the options it just seems like the best choice.

Side note, yes I am a sarcastic a**
 
Hot glue,,,,,,,,?. Why not use mini zip ties,,,,,? much easier, and neater, they also fit under split looms. If you just want to reinsulate wires, use heat shrink tubing.
Dave
 
When you say you are working under that dash, what is your position.
Are the front seats out so you can be relatively comfortable?
Or are you a contortionist with soldering iron laying on your chest between uses and dripping solder into your eyes over your head?
These things make a difference.
If the previous owner was a butcher, why not use extra wire in your repairs?
Work it outside the dash and then secure it when complete.
That makes the most sense to me.
No need to do a factory job.
They made the harness to fit the car during assembly.
No extra wire.
That's not you.


Regarding the question in this thread.
And since this is a new specialty for you.
I think there are two reasons for putting something on the wire in your car.
1. Protection from physical damage.
2. Keeping the wire clean.
I'd say whatever works.

Particularly under the hood where the wire sufferers the most, I like to separate my wire runs by application.
I wrap them separately.
Again, not like the factory.
But they had different reasons for doing it all in one harness.
 
I go with regular good quality electrical tape. Low temp stuff. For abrasion resistance i follow with hockey tape,the cloth stuff. Make sure you get your wiring right, pulling it apart later is a task.
 
@adriver
The work is under the dash, but on the passenger side. It's a combo of a butcher who added a radio, and an OE wiring strategy of running lower amp accessories through ammeter. Luckily nothing that runs behind the cluster is compromised. Everything I need to do is between the steering column and the passenger door. The seat is still in, but what I've done so far was cut the bad circuit out completely, re-created it with good wire, and cleaned up the original connectors/terminals, so I just need to get down there really quick and solder a couple wires back together.
 
Heh. Since you're being a contortionist, do what works for you now. Given my druthers, when possible I disconnect as much as possible and work on it on the car floor or fender if not on a bench. Then its easier to wrap with tape. I like the cloth tape.

I don't like the wire loom either - takes more space, the edges catch things. But I used it on my Wagoneer (1985) because (a) that's what it came with (b) may better allow heat disapation. The jeeps used resistance wires instead of ballast resistors - and they're in the loom - so even when everything was working perfect - heats being produced. They also used what looks like duct tape around splices and to hold the loom shut. Go figure -
 
OE wiring strategy of running lower amp accessories through ammeter
Shouldn't be. Didn't say what year, but its really late before they go to a remote shunted ammeter.
OE ---
Everything runs through the ammeter when on battery power.
Everything runs direct to the main splice when the alternator is running.
Main_charging_wires.JPG

Power flow shown at
Understanding Charging Systems with Ammeter
 
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This forum has been awesome for my education, but horrible for my list. The more I post and read the longer that darn thing gets.
:steering:
 
I'm partial to the braided split loom in varying sizes. Doesn't have the sharp plastic edges or cheap look. Slots for wire drop outs can be snipped with a small scissor and open ends secured with zip tie or electrical tape. Easy to open for additional wire if necessary.
 
@Mattax

Yeah someone just turned me on to the bypass today in another thread. It's on the list.
LOL. Yea. And I said its not all its cracked up to be. Once you see how the system works, you can see the load isn't on the ammeter circuit as long as the alternator is doing its job. The main weak spots are at the bulkhead connector. Not all years were done the same - another reason there's no absolutes. The late 60s, and even mid 70s A-bodies I've owned, the headlight circuit is also weak area. My '67 and '68 have 18 gage wires from the dimmer to the lamps! I've had melted headlight connectos and headlight switch connectors - although never a fire - the circuit breaker did its job. All with with stock lamps. I've also had wires chafed in the back of the headlight bucket. I really recommend putting the headlights on relays if driven at night more than once in a blue moon.
 
Alright so I think I've made my decision. For now I'm going to run split loom. While I'm putting in good wire, I'm going to be adding a classic auto air system soon which means I'll not only be pulling out the front bench, but I'll be tearing all sorts of stuff apart, so I might as well use that as my excuse to bypass the ammeter at the same time. When I do all that, I'll wrap the wire.

Plus I have a bunch of it around from other projects.
 
Sorry about the Off Track.
Just might want to check that your not fixing a hack that moved some accessories to the wrong side of the ammeter. :eek:
 
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