Tape vs split loom

Let's make it official, tape or loom

  • Non adhesive tape

    Votes: 13 76.5%

  • Plastic split loom

    Votes: 3 17.6%

  • Braided split loom

    Votes: 3 17.6%

  • Home depot great stuff expanding foam in every crack and crevis of you dash!!!

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Total voters
    17
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Sorry for the late response, but instead of hot glue, go to Home Depot and get a can of great stuff. It will hold EVERYTHING in place, stop squeaks and rattles, and !!!BONUS!!!! provide insulation from the engine bay.
Chevy guys say it makes great support for newspaper to provide a backing for your fiberglass mat when repairing quarter panels
 
Futzy1 said:
It's ok most of my tracks are side tracks. I was also looking at this
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That approach - eliminating the weak connection at the bulkhead - is totally legit. How it was executed can be quibbled over. Going straight through, with a grommet, IMO is the best. Tap connects like the type mentioned are amongst the poorer connection methods in my opinion.
One point of misunderstanding in that article. The fusible link, or any fuse/breaker is not sized based on the power source. It needs to based on the downstream wiring; and the wiring is based on the loads.
 
Question reguarding non adhesive cloth tape.

How do you all apply it? I've never used it.

Tape the beginning, wrap the harness, and tape at the end?

Don't mean to thread jack, just curious. Thanks. Eric
 
Do it right the first time you will be much happier.
 
brian6pac said:
Do it right the first time you will be much happier
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So I just saw this literally on my way back into the house after "gettin it done." Lol.

So I need some pink wire which I just could not find local, so I ordered that online. That should be in next week. Plus I'm going to be ripping all of it apart within a month so for now, I made a couple of notes in my log and subbed some wire color. Slapped it all together with crimp-ons, and threw some yellow standard electrical tape. (I always use yellow to flag an unfinished line.)

It's less to get the stuff working and more to make sure I dont have any major electrical issues before I throw the ac in. Plus now I won't have to spend 20 minutes cutting wires out a harness when I do.
 
Who gives a **** if it has a "GM appearance"? Are you gonna die from that? Use it if you think it's easier to work with. Learn not to give a DAMN what other people think.
 
The use of crimp-on instead of solder is great. Solder is never a better solution. The use of uninsulated barrel crimps and heatshrink is tidy, and results in superior connection and insulation vs soldering and tape. The key is a good crimper designed for size and type of terminal crimped.
 
Oh man, who's ready to go down a new rabbit hole with me?

So, luckily I while I have taped a few harnesses I hang har yo tape many. Tape width? Off the top of my head I would think the wider the better, but that at a certain point too wide would just be more likely to crease on you.

And let the chaos once again ensue. Lol
 
brian6pac said:
If you don't care WHY ask the question,
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While I kinda knew this had the possibility of becoming a "ford v chevy" topic, and I may have had have my opinions going into it, I also consider myself rational and capable of being swayed by logic.

That being said you may be happy to know my views have slightly changed. Going into it I was all about the split loom. I typically work on things that i need to tear back apart wire and rewire a few days later. However on my dart I'm going for a stock "looking" car (ie original am only radio, with hidden bluetooth/mp3 stereo.) That being said I'm going to split loom anything I think I might need to tear apart, but tape it once I know its "good."

:thumbsup:
 
Big_John said:
I don't like the look of the split loom. It has a GM appearance.
I always use non-adhesive tape and it works out well for me.
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The bradied stuff dsoesn`t look gm I vote for it, looks nice , works, and can be gotten back into easily.
 
Futzy1 said:
While I kinda knew this had the possibility of becoming a "ford v chevy" topic, and I may have had have my opinions going into it, I also consider myself rational and capable of being swayed by logic.

That being said you may be happy to know my views have slightly changed. Going into it I was all about the split loom. I typically work on things that i need to tear back apart wire and rewire a few days later. However on my dart I'm going for a stock "looking" car (ie original am only radio, with hidden bluetooth/mp3 stereo.) That being said I'm going to split loom anything I think I might need to tear apart, but tape it once I know its "good."

:thumbsup:
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Lh6 p
 
furyus2 said:
Lh6 p
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Uh oh, let the bullets fall where they may. My old 73 f250 had an fe390 with 300k original and a granny granny that could drag a house off the foundation. I'd have bet my life on that truck (and did, more than a few times.)
 
Futzy1 said:
Uh oh, let the bullets fall where they may. My old 73 f250 had an fe390 with 300k original and a granny granny that could drag a house off the foundation. I'd have bet my life on that truck (and did, more than a few times.)
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Sorry, that was a pocket text. Not sure what you thought I meant, but it was nothing.
 
I personally use cheap black hockey tape. If electrical insulation is required, I use heat shrink or good electrical tape first. I do not believe crimp connectors are to be feared or avoided if you have a good crimper and take care to ensure there are no errant strands of wire sticking out. While wiring my car, I have tended to wire things up sloppy to ensure it all works then go back and clean it up right once it all is proven out. One thing I have learned is make sure all your add ons are done before doing your final wiring clean up. I am on round 3 of cleaning up the wiring under the hood.
Cley
 
cloth or non adhesive tape is easy to open and test, but the cloth does get nasty dirty and pretty much turns to tissue paper over time. split loom does look cheap but its easy to use. Up to you: functional or asthetic?
 
I had a engine fire caused by OEM tape that rubbed through a oem wire the thing was a fuse, use racers tape unless it is a 100 point restoration!
 
Futzy1 said:
Alright, so I'm not sure if I'm about to kick up a storm here, but I was wondering the advantages/disadvantages of taping a harness vs split loom.

I've done a lot of electrical work in my life, but never really automotive electrical. Now that I'm getting under the dash, I'm finding that the previous owner may have been certifiable. I've had to stop out and replace a couple circuits and now I'm just about ready to get it all neat to tidy. In the past I've always gone for split look, but I know in the car world it's usually non adhesive tape.

Thoughts? Opinions?
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I use non-adhesive in all the front lighting/engine bay area and interior component areas. I use split loom or braided in add on's to lighting or accessories in the trunk area only Or if I'm going to be working on it or plan a future repair or upgrade (again trunk areas only for this.) like my 4 light conversion for my 66's that way I can add or adjust it easier than unwrapping the tape.
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I used the non-adhesive for all my stock harnesses. Where I bundled several loose wires (for neatness mostly), or for mechanical protection I used the split loom.

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