check gap at top and bottom for cylinder taperBefore and after pics after honing... big fan of Flex Hone.....318 stock bore with intake unshouding...
Now gap chrome moly rings.... what gap for stock pistons???
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check gap at top and bottom for cylinder taper
I personally like a hair more crosshatch. Did u check the clearance and taper first ???Actually the highest side load on the piston is when the crank is 90° to the connecting rod travel, which is at mid stroke...
I would check the top, bottom, and middle travel of the bore to establish taper....
Whoops... engine warm... but did not open carb.... would that increase or decrease PSI?carb open? warm or not? big cam? 130 is a little low. more crosshatch=stroking in and out faster would be better
Small cam.... 110 centerline straight upWhoops... engine warm... but did not open carb.... would that increase or decrease PSI?
218 @ at 50Small cam.... 110 centerline straight up
What does that mean to you? 110 LSA w/ 110 ICL? Or something else? Dot-to-dot?Small cam.... 110 centerline straight up
Whoops... engine warm... but did not open carb.... would that increase or decrease PSI?
Small cam.... 110 centerline straight up
Just purchased a three way double roller. Will advance cam this week...... stand by.... I should start a new thread....
I'm going to ask the same question rusty asked...did you degree the cam or line up the dots? They ain't the same.
If you are going to change the timing set you better damn sure degree the cam BEFORE you change anything to see where you are, and then degree it again with the new parts. If you don't, you have no clue where the cam is timed.
And I damned sure ain't going to tell you to move a cam without degreeing first. That's just crazy and the same kind of crap guys did when I was in high school.