Flex Hone ahoy...

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bschubarg

bschubarg

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Before and after pics after honing... big fan of Flex Hone.....318 stock bore with intake unshouding...

Now gap chrome moly rings.... what gap for stock pistons???

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What gap does the ring mfg suggest...better too big than too small
 
most want .004 per inch of bore.....4 inch bore would use .016 top ring minimum,,,,,,

what grit did you use?
 
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james m smith said:
check gap at top and bottom for cylinder taper
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Actually the highest side load on the piston is when the crank is 90° to the connecting rod travel, which is at mid stroke...

I would check the top, bottom, and middle of ring travel of the bore to establish taper....
 
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krazykuda said:
Actually the highest side load on the piston is when the crank is 90° to the connecting rod travel, which is at mid stroke...

I would check the top, bottom, and middle travel of the bore to establish taper....
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I personally like a hair more crosshatch. Did u check the clearance and taper first ???
 
Ring gap was set at .025. I’m sure there’s taper but the whole purpose for me anyways was to re-ring. I’ve put a dozen miles so far just to break it in....after a few hundred I’ll do a compression check... looks like the flex hone did a great job
 
Compression test complete. Average of 130 psi +/- %5. So what does that mean...?
 
carb open? warm or not? big cam? 130 is a little low. more crosshatch=stroking in and out faster would be better
 
Marcohotrod said:
carb open? warm or not? big cam? 130 is a little low. more crosshatch=stroking in and out faster would be better
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Whoops... engine warm... but did not open carb.... would that increase or decrease PSI?
 
Well for those who are curious... I retested with engine warm and carb WOT....128 PSI.... interesting the PSI decreased... didn't expect that.
 
Carb open may give a higher number, or maybe not. To me 110 centerline is intake centerline, which on the average small mopar I like installed at 107. And I like 110 lobe seperation angle. I am old school
 
bschubarg said:
Whoops... engine warm... but did not open carb.... would that increase or decrease PSI?
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It does not matter which way you do it, since all you are looking for is the percentage difference between each cylinder. As long as you do all of the cylinders with the carburetor in the same position, you will yield the same percentage results.
 
bschubarg said:
Small cam.... 110 centerline straight up
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If you only stabbed it in "dot to dot" I "just bet" you could see some fantastic results if you put a degree wheel on it and advanced it some. Especially if it is retarded dot to dot. You could make a significant difference in bottom end torque.
 
Just purchased a three way double roller. Will advance cam this week...... stand by.... I should start a new thread....
 
bschubarg said:
Just purchased a three way double roller. Will advance cam this week...... stand by.... I should start a new thread....
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I'm going to ask the same question rusty asked...did you degree the cam or line up the dots? They ain't the same.

If you are going to change the timing set you better damn sure degree the cam BEFORE you change anything to see where you are, and then degree it again with the new parts. If you don't, you have no clue where the cam is timed.

And I damned sure ain't going to tell you to move a cam without degreeing first. That's just crazy and the same kind of crap guys did when I was in high school.
 
yellow rose said:
I'm going to ask the same question rusty asked...did you degree the cam or line up the dots? They ain't the same.

If you are going to change the timing set you better damn sure degree the cam BEFORE you change anything to see where you are, and then degree it again with the new parts. If you don't, you have no clue where the cam is timed.

And I damned sure ain't going to tell you to move a cam without degreeing first. That's just crazy and the same kind of crap guys did when I was in high school.
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GREE W/ THE ABOVE POST! A bunch of people have done things like changing cam timing w/o degreeing, BUT I WOULDN`T ! unless it was a engine I built and had previously set it up, and knew what the clearances and timing was already, and knew that it would take the change.
 
Even though we are getting off topic here I would like to report that I installed the 3-Way chain for 4 degrees advance and not having degreed the cam in the first place; CrustyFatRod :) was correct. It made a world of difference in the low end performance.
 
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