brightest head lights

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mopardemon340

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what headlights are the brightest. looking for LED, HM, or HM bulbs and replace able lenses.
also how do i align them
 
Lots of choices in lights. For a low dollar sealed beam single headlight GE H6024NH nighthawks. Those are the ones I recommend with my relay kits when $ matter.

There are a lot of not so great lights in the HID/LED arena. If you buy those, make sure they are good ones.
 
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I use Hella conversion lights with an H4 bulb with a higher wattage high beam. I used Slansixdan's relay kit, but have had a fallout with him, and I like crackedback much better. My next relay kit will be from him.
 
I use Hella conversion lights with an H4 bulb with a higher wattage high beam. I used Slansixdan's relay kit, but have had a fallout with him, and I like crackedback much better. My next relay kit will be from him.
What size hella conversion light?
 
I use Hella conversion lights with an H4 bulb with a higher wattage high beam. I used Slansixdan's relay kit, but have had a fallout with him, and I like crackedback much better. My next relay kit will be from him.
what size hella kit did you need. 165, or 178
 
I have the cibie conversion lights with headlight relays and some sylvania xtravisions. I drive 30 miles at 75mph down I70 for work at 3 in the morning in deer country. I like my headlights to work With my brights on i can light up damn near both sides of the interstate.
 
I have the cibie conversion lights with headlight relays and some sylvania xtravisions. I drive 30 miles at 75mph down I70 for work at 3 in the morning in deer country. I like my headlights to work With my brights on i can light up damn near both sides of the interstate.
As far as H4, the best beam I've ever had came from a Cibie. Love their Z- beams. But I don't know if they are even in business anymore. yeah, you really need to run a relay like others have suggested.
 
I have had both the Cibie H4 E code conversion and the Hella. I have the Hella E code conversion now in my 75 F250. Other than the difference between the wattage bulbs...I had 100/90 in the Cibies and 65/55 in the Hellas, the light shape and cutoff is the same. I plan to upgrade to the 100/90 soon.
 
As far as H4, the best beam I've ever had came from a Cibie. Love their Z- beams. But I don't know if they are even in business anymore. yeah, you really need to run a relay like others have suggested.
Cibie is in business. There's just very few retailers in the US. But the Z-beams are no longer produced so are hard to find.
With any H4 lamp assembly, the design and quality of the housing and the bulb can make a big difference on whether the light produced is effectively placed on the road. And IMO, there are also personal preferences based on things like where you drive and how tolerant your eyes are for contrast and things like that. Living in a part of the country with lots of wooded twisty roads and undulations puts a slightly different priority on things than the high desert. Anyway my point was even a good lamp will not perform well with a poor bulb. "Hilldweller" did some comparison measurements of lumens at set locations on the road using the same Hella lamps and two different bulbs. With the Delta Blue 'Xenon' bulb it wasn't much better (in lumens at the test locations ) than a plain old sealed beam. His tests also showed a couple of the new LED lamps are very good. Personally I don't like the contrast, but they are bright, and legal. The good ones are not cheap.
chart and links 1/2 way down this page: Headlights

Aiming
For a single pair of combined Hi/low lamps, aim them using the low beams. (The high beam instructions are for cars that have a dedicated pair of high beam only lamps.)
For DOT or SAE marked headlight aiming without a machine.
For lamps made to European Commission standards, use E-code headlight aiming
 
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Cibie is in business. There's just very few retailers in the US. But the Z-beams are no longer produced so are hard to find.
With any H4 lamp assembly, the design and quality of the housing and the bulb can make a big difference on whether the light produced is effectively placed on the road. And IMO, there are also personal preferences based on things like where you drive and how tolerant your eyes are for contrast and things like that. Living in a part of the country with lots of wooded twisty roads and undulations puts a slightly different priority on things than the high desert. Anyway my point was even a good lamp will not perform well with a poor bulb. "Hilldweller" did some comparison measurements of lumens at set locations on the road using the same Hella lamps and two different bulbs. With the Delta Blue 'Xenon' bulb it wasn't much better (in lumens at the test locations ) than a plain old sealed beam. His tests also showed a couple of the new LED lamps are very good. Personally I don't like the contrast, but they are bright, and legal. The good ones are not cheap.
chart and links 1/2 way down this page: Headlights

Aiming
For a single pair of combined Hi/low lamps, aim them using the low beams. (The high beam instructions are for cars that have a dedicated pair of high beam only lamps.)
For DOT or SAE marked headlight aiming without a machine.
For lamps made to European Commission standards, use E-code headlight aiming
I always figured the French(Cibie) just knew more about optics than most, because lighthouses used to have French made lenses. Did not know the bulbs made much difference, other than wattage. Maybe that explains why I wasn't as impressed with Hella's.
Don't want to hijack thread, but does anyone know where you can find the wire baskets to protect the H4 lenses? They used to be more common, I don't know where you can get them, now.
 
I always figured the French(Cibie) just knew more about optics than most, because lighthouses used to have French made lenses. Did not know the bulbs made much difference, other than wattage. Maybe that explains why I wasn't as impressed with Hella's.
Don't want to hijack thread, but does anyone know where you can find the wire baskets to protect the H4 lenses? They used to be more common, I don't know where you can get them, now.
Yes. I also was surprised it can have noticible effect. It happens I currently have a Hella Vision plus and a Cibie E-code on my wagoneer (rectangular type) with Hella's supplied bulb in the one, and a Narva Rangepower +30 in the other. But I haven't had a chance to really aim them properly and then go measure lux with a light meter. When I do, then I'll switch the Hella bulb to a Narva +30 and retest and see if there is a measurable and visual difference. Both are rated 60/55W power draw.
A super techie comparison of 4 bulbs in 2 slightly different lamps, one to a US standard, the other made to an ECE standard.
Interesting headlight bulb test results

I hunted down some z-beams a couple years ago for the Barracuda but haven't installed them yet. There's certain places I drive where I really want them, that's when they'll go in. At the time I did see metal grill stone guards, but don't recall where. Sorry. For auxillery lights, most people keep them fully covered until needed. Having had a fog light lens crushed, I've come to accept that's a smart move.

Only stuff here looks like is for only for auxillary lamps. Not sure if it would attach to the headlamps. May depend on the surrounding retaining ring and trim..
RallyLights.com
 
Yes. I also was surprised it can have noticible effect. It happens I currently have a Hella Vision plus and a Cibie E-code on my wagoneer (rectangular type) with Hella's supplied bulb in the one, and a Narva Rangepower +30 in the other. But I haven't had a chance to really aim them properly and then go measure lux with a light meter. When I do, then I'll switch the Hella bulb to a Narva +30 and retest and see if there is a measurable and visual difference. Both are rated 60/55W power draw.
A super techie comparison of 4 bulbs in 2 slightly different lamps, one to a US standard, the other made to an ECE standard.
Interesting headlight bulb test results

I hunted down some z-beams a couple years ago for the Barracuda but haven't installed them yet. There's certain places I drive where I really want them, that's when they'll go in. At the time I did see metal grill stone guards, but don't recall where. Sorry. For auxillery lights, most people keep them fully covered until needed. Having had a fog light lens crushed, I've come to accept that's a smart move.

Only stuff here looks like is for only for auxillary lamps. Not sure if it would attach to the headlamps. May depend on the surrounding retaining ring and trim..
RallyLights.com
the headlight lens screens I remember seeing many years ago, we're chromed and clipped on so that they could easily be removed for lens cleaning. I am leary to expose my remaining cibie's to a stone. That has happened twice before.
 
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