Clutch Fan

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Check Hayden’s website, they say it’s their shortest fan clutch. If memory serves its 2.67 or 2.7 in length.
 
Found the measurements, 2947-2.707 and 2765-2.67. I had them flipped. That’s all my fault. I do apologize for my incorrect posts.
 
Measure it!
FWIW..........
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For reference the MP 4120758 is 3-5/16" where as the Hayden 2947 is 2-3/4" I believe.

those measurements are for the front of the pulley to the front of the clutch itself, not the abc measurements . And, moving the radiator 'back" would be putting it closer to the engine , where I went to school. Moving it forward would be the way I would go, "if" I wanted to cut up my orig. form S cradle .
 
those measurements are for the front of the pulley to the front of the clutch itself, not the abc measurements . And, moving the radiator 'back" would be putting it closer to the engine , where I went to school. Moving it forward would be the way I would go, "if" I wanted to cut up my orig. form S cradle .
AINT WE GOT FUN?
 
I guess proof is in the pudding. I'll have the new clutch this afternoon. I'll put it in tomorrow and take some measurements.

:popcorn::popcorn:........... and the verdict is? Pitcures please!
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Hayden #2765 for 1990 jaguar XJ6 is very short. More importantly though, what setup did the factory run on these back then?
 
So how would that bolt up?
4 bolts, same as a Mopar. But, little room for a box wrench. M-B owners grind the end of a box wrench to barely fit over the head, since an open-ended wrench risks rounding off the head. In my M-B, I bought bolts at Ace w/ larger heads so I can use an open-ended wrench. Of course, a Mopar will be using different SAE bolts, so get ones w/ the largest heads possible (if a choice). Insure the M-B fan will clear everything on the engine. I tried the other way, test-fitting a Mopar fan-clutch to my M-B diesel. While it bolted up fine, the Mopar fan blades would hit the T-stat tube. I recall verifying w/ a vernier that the pilot hole is the same diameter. That must be fairly universal, except some fan clutches come w/ a reducer bushing which you must insert to use on our Mopars. I expect the same pump is used on GM or Ford which has larger pilot shaft on the w.p. BTW, the M-B fan in the photo appears to have aluminum blades. Better to pick a later one w/ nylon blades, as most M-B guys do. Also, some of the thermal clutches lose their silicone fill, especially if not stored vertical in storerooms.
 
I cannot believe this conversation is still on going .. do this and don't look back ... install pusher and the flex fan i told you ????

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Given my car is a numbers matching stock resto the option you suggest wont work for my application.
 
Ok, the temps have cooled enough (102) for me to work out in the shop. Installed the clutch fan. As you can see from the pictiures theres room between the clutch and the radiator with the hayden 2947. Took a measurement and have at least an 1 1/4 clearance from the front of the clutch and the rad. The fan itself is in the same location the fixed fan with spacer.

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I should note that if you look at the picture I didn't have the bolts cinched up when I took the pic.
 
As you can see the GRIFFIN radiator looks exactly like factory tank setup minus #'s on tank .. you can paint it black ... My Dart also is Number matching car .. BUT who cares , i kept everything and going for HP an TQ now ..
 
Ok, the temps have cooled enough (102) for me to work out in the shop. Installed the clutch fan. As you can see from the pictiures theres room between the clutch and the radiator with the hayden 2947. Took a measurement and have at least an 1 1/4 clearance from the front of the clutch and the rad. The fan itself is in the same location the fixed fan with spacer.

View attachment 1715174002

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I should note that if you look at the picture I didn't have the bolts cinched up when I took the pic.

But, but, but a clutch fan will never fit in a big block A-body. LOL

Nice job!
 
Holy f’n crap! How is that you have sooo much more room than everyone else? Is your radiator really thin? Is your engine moved back some?
 
I cannot believe this conversation is still on going .. do this and don't look back ... install pusher and the flex fan i told you ????

View attachment 1715173954
this wasn`t enough for mine .
Holy f’n crap! How is that you have sooo much more room than everyone else? Is your radiator really thin? Is your engine moved back some?

How about stating in these continuing conversations, 'THAT WE START OFF W/ PUMP BOLT TO RADIATOR CLEARANCE ," RIGHT OFF THE BAT.??
 
As you can see the GRIFFIN radiator looks exactly like factory tank setup minus #'s on tank .. you can paint it black ... My Dart also is Number matching car .. BUT who cares , i kept everything and going for HP an TQ now ..


You have a part number for that rad?
 
I would imagine theres going to be a lot of differences depending on stock copper/brass or thicker aluminum radiator. Elephant ears, stock BB mounts, MP spool mount K, homemade mounts, etc.

Not working with a big block myself, but i went with an engineered cooling products aluminum radiator, and a Hayden clutch fan for a 1990 Jag XJ6 with an 18" 6 blade flexalite fan only gave me 3/4" clearance to the back of the radiator. I am using a spool mount K with soft polyurethane bushings so fore and aft movement from acceleration and deceleration will be minimum.

I was going to go with an elect fan originally but wanted a puller so it couldent be seen behind the grille. The thinnest 18" single would have hit the water pump flange, and 2 smaller dual fans i was afraid wouldent have the CFM i needed.

Any way you go, a proper shroud to duct things is a must. I made mine out of fiberglass, and resin with a homemade wooden/masonite buck and an old cotton T shirt. Maybe this idea will help some of you out. Blades for mechanical fan should be about half out of the shroud, and have at minimum 1/2" clearance between them and the shroud.

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More pix. First is the risers made from old 2×4 blocks to get the proper height. The 1x1s on the back stiffen the mould, and give something to stretch and staple the cotton fabric to. The 3rd pic is of the mould release plastic and tapes. 4th pic, I used 4 coats of fiberglass resin on the cotton fabric, allowing time to dry between coats, and light scuffing between coats. This gave it a nice sandable gel coat and allowed it to get stiff enough to pull from the mould, then i screwed it down to a plywood board on sawhorses and fiberglassed the inside.

The wooden bucks dimensions, and circular disc diameter, offset, and height the most important things in doing this. The mould has to be perfect in dimension, since you are making the part from it. If the mould is off in any direction or height, your part will be too.

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