MP 360 overheats no matter what i do

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Those fans aren’t any good for cooling a lawn mower. Get better fans.
 
72bluNblu said:
Over generalize much?

A 3 row radiator is not “very inefficient”. Is the 3rd row generally less efficient than the first two? Sure, in general. But the design of the radiator, size and shape of the tubes, spacing between the tubes etc all play a part in that efficiency. There are three row radiators out there that will outperform two row radiators, and two row radiators that will outperform 3. There’s a heck of a lot more to it than just 2 vs 3 rows in the core, so you can’t just throw out blanket “20% more efficient” claim either. That’s as much nonsense as a horsepower rating calculated by the manufacturer.

And I run a Champion 3 core 26” radiator in my Duster with a 400-ish hp 340 that’s punched out .060” and have never had a problem with it overheating. Quite the opposite, it’s managed just fine even stuck in traffic when it’s 110*F outside. Usually the the dual electric Contour fan set up I run stays on low speed, I’ve only ever had the high speed kick on a couple times.
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what fan setup are you running ? i have the ones that come with the radiator package from Champion
 
Derale has some dual fans that put 4K cfm. Check them out.
 
Can you actually see coolant flowing? I once had a brand new water pump that wasn't stamped out way up in side the lower hose outlet. Chased the problem for days.
 
Haven't seen much feedback on how you use or have set up the MSD Atomic timing control, for all we know your engine could be running with 15° advance all the time.
 
panheadchuck said:
its up against it however its not being used right now
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That's good, the more space you have between the condenser and the radiator the more cavitation you get as the air passes through (even with fans). If it's up against the radiator that should not be a problem. The cavitation occurs whether you use the AC or not.
Too far advanced made one of my motors run hot as soon as I backed it off it improved!!

treblig
 
now when going down the road the car will cool nicely to about 196* at a light back to 210 - 217* so new fans it is , i may get a different radiator , what i have is the champion CC375 and dual 12" Spal 1522 fans . they each put out 1330 cfm so i can see where i need more air i may need a thinner radiator though as the spals barely touch the nose of te billet specialties water pump pulley
 
I have a 22 inch Champion with a single champion fan shroud assembly. It cools my magnum just fine.
 
panheadchuck said:
what fan setup are you running ? i have the ones that come with the radiator package from Champion
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I run a 1995-2000 Ford Contour OE fan set up. Dual speed, dual fans, fits great on a 26” radiator. I use it with a Dakota Digital fan controller and dual relays. The dorman made replacements are like $130, and they put out 3,000 cfm on low speed and 5,000 cfm on high speed. Been using it for a few years now daily driving my Duster, works great. My install is here, I have all the part numbers listed
[URL="https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/threads/my-new-74-duster-or-why-i-need-a-project-like-a-hole-in-the-head.198098/page-3#post-1970313646"]My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head[/URL]

img_1558_zps3b79216a-jpg-jpg.jpg
 
72bluNblu said:
I run a 1995-2000 Ford Contour OE fan set up. Dual speed, dual fans, fits great on a 26” radiator. I use it with a Dakota Digital fan controller and dual relays. The dorman made replacements are like $130, and they put out 3,000 cfm on low speed and 5,000 cfm on high speed. Been using it for a few years now daily driving my Duster, works great. My install is here, I have all the part numbers listed
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

View attachment 1715174868
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Holy crapola! How many amps do those things draw at 5,000 CFM??????

I think some issues guys are having with their cooling systems my be the alternator isn't putting out enough amps to run the fans full speed.

I mean, by the time you run the ignition, the fuel pump, possibly the water pump and all the other stuff a 100 amp alternator may not cut it. Low output from the alternator can cause the fan to run slower than it should.

Just went through this with an ignition system and a miss. The alternator would power it with the lights and fan motor on and it would miss.

I took a year off my life trying to sort it out. He kept saying it missed but I never had it miss while I was driving it. He failed to notice it only did it at night, coming home from work with the heater on.
 
PWM controllers are the way to go. Soft start and then they ramp up the fan(s) as needed.
 
72bluNblu said:
I run a 1995-2000 Ford Contour OE fan set up. Dual speed, dual fans, fits great on a 26” radiator. I use it with a Dakota Digital fan controller and dual relays. The dorman made replacements are like $130, and they put out 3,000 cfm on low speed and 5,000 cfm on high speed. Been using it for a few years now daily driving my Duster, works great. My install is here, I have all the part numbers listed
My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head

View attachment 1715174868
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what is the actual part number of the radiator? On champions site they list three and they all seem to be 22" mine is a cc375 3 row with dual 12" spal 1522 fans , 1328 cfm each. clearly i need to do the contour conversion . i may just buy whatever radiator you are using. my core is 26" wide x 17" Tall
 
panheadchuck said:
what is the actual part number of the radiator? On champions site they list three and they all seem to be 22" mine is a cc375 3 row with dual 12" spal 1522 fans , 1328 cfm each. clearly i need to do the contour conversion . i may just buy whatever radiator you are using. my core is 26" wide x 17" Tall
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Mine is a CC374. It’s an older part number for a B/E body application.
 
Chased my too hot motor for about 2 years. Finally discovered the timing chain, installed dot to dot was 5 degrees retarded. You wouldn't believe all the things I tried.
 
Champion radiators SUCK for their consistency. One may cool great, then one is a POS. Plus, as stated, you have the three row. Ultimately the radiator is responsible for how hot your engine runs. That's where I would be looking.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Champion radiators SUCK for their consistency. One may cool great, then one is a POS. Plus, as stated, you have the three row. Ultimately the radiator is responsible for how hot your engine runs. That's where I would be looking.
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It's cooling down to 196* on the road, which means the radiator isn't likely the problem here. We know his fans are a little short on CFM, and that's shown by the temp climbing at idle. There's nothing wrong with 3 row radiators, they're used frequently and work just fine in all kinds of applications. A 3 row is not inherently worse than a 2 row, it depends on the construction of the individual radiators.

panheadchuck said:
what is the actual part number of the radiator? On champions site they list three and they all seem to be 22" mine is a cc375 3 row with dual 12" spal 1522 fans , 1328 cfm each. clearly i need to do the contour conversion . i may just buy whatever radiator you are using. my core is 26" wide x 17" Tall
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I show a CC375 as being a 26" radiator, so I wouldn't worry about the radiator if it fits in the car. 26", 3 row, pretty similar to the CC374 I run. I would just look at upgrading the fans, you should be able to run a Ford Contour set up like mine with that radiator, and that should add significant airflow.

If you haven't already, check your thermostat to make sure it's operating properly, and check that your temp gauge is accurate (or close) with an IR temp reader.
 
72bluNblu said:
It's cooling down to 196* on the road, which means the radiator isn't likely the problem here. We know his fans are a little short on CFM, and that's shown by the temp climbing at idle. There's nothing wrong with 3 row radiators, they're used frequently and work just fine in all kinds of applications. A 3 row is not inherently worse than a 2 row, it depends on the construction of the individual radiators.
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ok den.
 
The thermostat should set the lowest temperature that your car will run at under any conditions, not the capacity of your cooling system. That being said even 196 may be an issue if something is being overtaxed.
 
trapster said:
The thermostat should set the lowest temperature that your car will run at under any conditions, not the capacity of your cooling system. That being said even 196 may be an issue if something is being overtaxed.
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The thermostat only sets the low operating temperature of the engine and shouldn’t have anything to do with anything else. Factory thermostats for these cars are like 190*F. There’s really no reason the thermostat should be any lower than 180*F. Getting a 160*F thermostat just guarantees your engine will take longer to warm up.

And nothing should be “overtaxed” at a coolant temp of 196*F. The coolant in a pressurized radiator system shouldn’t boil until it’s over 230*F in most systems. Assuming your water pump is good and nothing is plugged everything should be just fine at 196*F. Heck the engine in my car probably runs the best between 190* and 200*.
 
I was merely pointing out that if you have an 180 thermostat but never get below 196 it may be your system regulating your temperature and not your thermostat. If your thermostat never closes after your car warms up there is an issue with the capacity of your cooling system, or you just have a thermostat that is too low.
 
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