Are all a body ball joints screw ins?

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doogievlg

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i had no idea the ball joints were screwed in and I pressed mine out. I picked up the new ones and saw the threads so now I’m wondering if I just ruined my upper control arms by pressing out the old ball joints.
 
I would say most likely. All you can do is to try to screw the new ones in an see if you are able to archive the proper torque spec. I think its 125 ft/lbs. If you get close to the spec, but can't reach it then you could maybe tack weld them to retain then in the control arm. You will need the special ball joint socket to do it correctly.
 
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It was a common thing to tack weld the ball joints.
 
1. Yes, all uppers are screwed in.
2. Yes, you screwed up your existing ones.
Advertise for some good used ones.
 
Doctor Diff sells new ones. Just go get a set & don't mess with the old ones.
 
125 foot lbs isnt much.
So trying a new ball joint wont be out if the question.
 
I still have a set laying on the self from a 73 swinger that was a drum brake car. Will those work with disc brakes?
 
I remember reading about needing the bigger ball joints for disc brakes but couldn’t remember what year would work.

I assume it wouldn’t be a good idea to take the new control arm bushings out of the ruined control arms and put them in the other set.
 
The upper arm doesn't see a lot of stress. I have had to weld a few in, but you have to be careful not to destroy the bearing inside with too much heat. I did a little more than "tack" them in tho.
I long time ago Mopar made rings to install on the under side, and press them against the bottom of the arm. I haven't seen those in a few decades now, but you might be able to fab some up.

The thing is cheap BJs don't go for 100,000 miles like the oems mighta. I have seen some barely make it around the block. If yours only make 15000 miles,and you more than "tacked" them in , then that was a waste of time, and now you're shopping for arms again. So, IMO, if you got spares, use them.
The bushings should survive the transplant. But if they are not Problem-Solvers, I would ditch them.
 
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Upper arms dont carry any load,more side to side and front to rear. So really there is no real concern. Other than them staying where they are put.
 
See if the new ones will screw in. If they do, screw them in, torque them down, and zap a couple tack welds on it. Some people are too quick to spend other people's money.
 
JMO, if I was looking at a Mopar to buy, and saw welded in ball joints, I would be out of there so fast........My opinion.
 
JMO, if I was looking at a Mopar to buy, and saw welded in ball joints, I would be out of there so fast........My opinion.

My car had one tacked I never noticed for 25 years until replacement. Took a 6 foot cheater pipe and long pull bar before I realized it. It snapped hard! Needless to say that arm was replaced.
 
I’ll be over at the garage tomorrow night so I’ll see what I can do. Thanks for the input on my rookie mistake.
 
JMO, if I was looking at a Mopar to buy, and saw welded in ball joints, I would be out of there so fast........My opinion.

I had kinda screwed up as well and did not loosen them prior to disassembly and sending the shell off for resto. Put some screw eyes in a 4x6 to mount the arms to remove the upper joints. Good thing with the tacked one cause if it was still in the car fender damage with the cheater pipe would surely have happened when the tacks broke. As it happened I just landed on my *** and no other damage!

Please do not tack them!

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Hell my passenger side has been tack welded and its lasted 30,000 miles when i need new ones ill just buy new arms. Just make sure you have a quality ball joint and a good tack and you will be fine.
 
Tack welding them is not a problem. One tack, let it cool then another. Three or 4 per joint is plenty.
Here is one problem. Some of the cheaper ball joints being made now have plastic bearing surface so keeping it cool while welding is important.
 
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