For Famous Bob;
My engine doesn't care about ambient or idling or hood open/closed, or traffic or running at 100mph for an hour or three, or ram air, or any of that stuff. It runs 205 at the stat house with an IR gun , no more and no less.
Here's what works on my little 367.
-aluminum heads,
- I pilfered the rad and the shroud from a 1973 Swinger 318 with A/C. The dang thing is over 41 years old. It's a 26", and I think a 2-row.
-Milodon Hi-flo pump which is just a regular pump with an anti-cavitation plate welded on and 7 or 8 vanes I can't recall which,,and I believe it has a 5/8 shaft.
-Milodon Hi-flo 195 stat
-Seven-blade factory all-steel A/C clutch-fan with the funky anti-vortex tips and a fairly high attack angle on the blades, also from the Dart
-a fan clutch from an early 200X Ford pick-up. This is a key part.
-I rev mine to 7000/7200 so I'm running an underdrive pulley set.
-TTI headers with dual 3" full length mandrel bent pipes
-Airgap
- Fresh cold above-the-hood air, another big-deal
- .0030 to .0032 skirt clearance on the KB 107s
- a 7psi cap, and a recirculating overflow tank (also from the 73 Dart).
- I installed a restrictor in the bypass hose, and in summer, I block the hose that normally delivers hot water to the heater.
- I used to run 100%water, but got tired of draining it every fall, so somewhere along the line, I went to 50/50, No change in running temperature,after everything else was dialed in.
___________________________
>On the shakedown run, I discovered that a direct drive flex-fan was chit. Same for the small diameter factory 6 blade steel fan, and the Mopar Performance 5-blade or 7-blade-low-attack viscous clutch fans, IMO all crap, by themselves.
> During the first roadtrip with an inferior cooling system,on a very hot day,lol, I discovered that the engine was running pretty warm, and every time I shut her off, I had to wait a half hour to restart cuz the pistons would lock-up in the bores. The machine shop had initially set the skirt clearance to .0025, on the KB-107s. When I got home, I took it all apart and had them put more clearance in, and that solved that.
> The Milodon wate pump was instant relief.
> the aluminum heads and TTIs were cooking everything in sight including the 750DP and fuel line. A hole in the hood was instant relief. I put an oval filter box on top of the hood,between the louvers (68Barracuda) and sealed the carb to the underside. I installed a large canister EFI,steel fuel-filter at the back on the suction side, and plumbed a one piece all-steel line from the pump to the dual-feed.
> I ventilated the hood to let the heat out when parked.
>the 7psi cap just lets all the rubber parts last forever, and makes life easy on the rad and heater core. Only the heater hoses and bypass were new in 1999. The rad hoses are more ancient. And yes the lower hose has the anti-collapse spring inside it.
____________________________________
The engine is a 4.04x3.58, 367 cuber at 10.9Scr (was 11.3 with the first cam, the 292/108). KB 107s out of the hole about .005. Quench set to .034, a Hughes 230* cam with 1.6 adjustable arms, the aforementioned AG and 750DP, Milodon RoadRace pan with HV oilpump, Manual trans, currently running 3.55s and smoking up the 325s, and OOTB Eddies now painted Orange. She went 93 in the 1/8th at 3467#; So; not 800hp, not 600, not 500; perhaps a tic over 400hp.
______________________________________
a lot of the changes were made together, so I can't separate out items that may not have contributed.
The following items, I can say , really helped;
the Milodon pump,fresh cold air,and the 7 blade T-clutch set-up.
The pistons , IMO, might have been Ok at .0025 as originally installed, if I had made all the other changes first. They do rattle at start-up for a half a minute or so.
Since my coolant runs rock-solid at 205, I do not need more than the 7psi cap.
I abuse the chit out of this combo. The temp needle never moves after stabilizing warm.The only time I ever look at the gauge now is right after a 7200 rpm blast, to make sure the belt is still on. Speaking of which, I run that V-belt as loose as possible without it squealing. I think it was new in 2004.
This is what has worked for me. Your results may vary
