Help evaluating this car...69 DART

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Heck if you can get it fo $400, and haul all the slant sux specific stuff to the scrap yard, you may get back $75 in weight.

Save the starter. It fits a small block, alternator, and air cleaner, driveshaft and yoke, People always looking for that stuff. You could sell those pieces and make back some more of your cash. Mebbe end up paying $200 for it.
 
what about this, the OP is in florida, right?
what if everyone who said "that car is to nice to race" and everyone who said "yuck, an LS engine" donated $10, i bet we could buy him this one, and move on with our lives

[FOR SALE] - 1969 Dart Custom Project

No, Northern California. I can not buy a car outside of the state unless it is 100% original and running. The reason, there is an inspection on all out of state cars. No smog for 75 and older, but that inspection will freeze my progress.
So, I'm afraid to test DMV w/non Calif(Kommifornia) registered cars.


That said, feel free to send me one. : )
 
Yep thats the ticket. Not interested in a go fund me though. Pre stripped, it saves you $2000 you woulda spent, and the time to dissassemble it. Go get it.

Talk about a crime. Throwing the car away. If putting an LS in is 20 to life, then trashing the car is the death penalty.
 
I see people on here parting out darts in california all the time. Should be something out your way pre stripped for cheap to free.
 
Talk about a crime. Throwing the car away. If putting an LS in is 20 to life, then trashing the car is the death penalty.

i think you got it backwards
if he finds one that isnt on the road, putting an engine in there, ANY engine, would be a new lease on life for that car
he could put a 2 cycle trabant engine in there and it would still be better then that car sitting in the weeds slowly returning to the earth
 
No, Northern California. I can not buy a car outside of the state unless it is 100% original and running. The reason, there is an inspection on all out of state cars. No smog for 75 and older, but that inspection will freeze my progress.
So, I'm afraid to test DMV w/non Calif(Kommifornia) registered cars.


That said, feel free to send me one. : )
The car has Cali plates. No inspection. As long as the owner has the title.
 
This car is worth the $2500, but if you put an LS in it won't be worth 2 bits! If your not gonna restore it inside and out original Mopar, then pass the car to someone who will. If you want to use your LS then go find another junk chevy to put it in, there are plenty sitting around right now!
 
My whole point is as op stated he already has the LS motor and apparently likes the Dart Body Style. Another Point..Yes this is " For A-Bodies only " But is says nothing about having to be a purist to participate. How about we answer his basic question which is " Is the car worth $2500 ?" instead of ripping him for drive train choice. I could understand if it was going to be a restoration but it's going to be a Drag Car. Who gives a rats *** what engine is in it as long as it's fast. I know I'm in the minority here but that's nothing new. :)

Puzackly.
 
or a Mazda rotary. all you will have with an LS in a Dart, is a mutt.
Get Real ! power a Mopar with Mopar.
 
Already found another Dart...even better. Same color car and price but no engine which is fine. Think I’ll pick it up tue.

I think a 400 and a hair dryer should do it though the LS is way lighter.

Stock front suspension looks weak. Do u guys normally rip that out and go aftermarket stuff ?
 
Already found another Dart...even better. Same color car and price but no engine which is fine. Think I’ll pick it up tue.

I think a 400 and a hair dryer should do it though the LS is way lighter.

Stock front suspension looks weak. Do u guys normally rip that out and go aftermarket stuff ?
People with big checkbooks rip out the stock suspension and replace with aftermarket, people who are into handling, and are smart, update and beef the factory suspension, which in my opinion, is far superior to any of the aftermarket frontends from a performance standpoint. Your results may vary
 
Pretty robust. I would go fully forged bottom end. Watched a vid of a guy with a 318 in an Aussie valiant with twin turbos make some good numbers on a dyno, or stick a 390 inch stroker kit in it. A 360 magnum engine is a good deal too. Heads on those are junk.They flow great, but crack. Id recommend getting a deal on a short block. Bellhousing pattern and mount ears on a magnum are same as an LA 318-360, a vac advance electronic or points distributor drops right in. A company called engine quest makes a new magnum head casting called a monster magnum. It eliminates the cracking issues with the OEM and comes in either a magnum intake bolt pattern or a LA V8 bolt pattern.
Part numbers are EQ-CH318A for i think magnum pattern, and EQ-CH318B for LA pattern

Stock frontend

Remove K member and get it hot tanked, and seam weld it. Add boxing plates around steering box, and an 1/8" thick skid plate to tie the bottom together.

They make boxing plates for the lower control arms to stiffen em up. Not worth fabbing because a pair of em is about $20

If your car is small bolt pattern 4 wheel drum brakes, you can find in the junkyard F body volare aspen or M body dodge diplomat fury or fifth ave RWD from 84 - 89 take everything from spindle out. (Leave behind the upper arms, and lower ball joints you cannot use them) i recommend the M body as it uses the larger piston calipers. F body the caliper pistons are 2.60" This gives you the bigger bolt pattern bigger studs, and 2.75" diameter piston calipers.

If you can find a 78-79 cordoba , or magnum at your junkyard jaunt along with the M body and the brakes are intact, a better recommendation is to take just the spindles from the M body, since they are closest to an A body, and grab the rest including caliper mount brackets and dust shields from the 78-79 cordoba or magnum. Reason being is that they use 2.75" calipers with stainless pistons. M body uses 2.75" calipers with trouble prone phenolic pistons, or you can buy new bendix stainless pistons and a seal kit and rebuild the M body calipers. Also the 78-79 cordoba rotors are a 1" larger 11.80" diameter rotor and the M body rotor is the same part number smaller 10.80" diameter rotor as a 73-76 A body.

A pair of 73-76 A body disc brake hoses will work fine with either the M body or cordoba calipers

You will have to use A body lower ball joints for 73-76 A body disc brake cars and you will need to source grade 8 bolts and ovaled mechanical locking nuts (not nylocks) to attach the spindles to the A body lower ball joint. Reason for this is the M body the ball joints are threaded for the spindle attachment, but the A body ball joints are a machined through hole for spindle attachment, this is why the bolts are needed.

If car is 67-72 w stock drum brakes, You can use stock upper control arms but with the smaller ball joints you will need to buy adaptor sleeves from dr diff so these smaller ball joint pins will fit the bigger holes in the M body spindles. Or you can source 73-76 disc brake car upper control arms with the bigger ball joints in them. No spacers needed, option #3 is tubular upper control arms also with the larger ball joints.

I sourced a 2 bolt M body 1&1/32 master cylinder for my build with manual brakes. I bought an adaptor from doctor diff that converts 4 bolt pattern at firewall to 2 bolt pattern for the M body dippy master cylinder. I think it came w the square O ring to hold the push rod in. The M body master is also SAE fitting threads so no adaptors needed. Reuse your brake push rod from your original master cylinder. The M body master has a groove in the back for the push rod O ring. Easiest way to pull the rod out of the old master to reuse it. Is pull the brake pedal towards you while everythings hooked up in the car. This pulls the rod out of the old master cylinder, then remove the old master cylinder.

Using the newer brake parts along with M body master cylinder and proportioning valve, i recommend sourcing new pre bent and flaired brake lines from inline tube. If you go with 73-76 dart disc brake lines everything will thread right together.

I would also recommend running DOT 5 silicone based brake fluid if all the brake parts are new or rebuilt. It doesnt wick up moisture like DOT 3 will, and wont wreck your paint if its spilled.

See pic below for the bolts needed. Hope this helps you out a bit.

Screenshot_2017-07-11-06-28-18.png
 
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This post references this car from a craigslist ad:
69 DART

Hi, I'm a newbie here and looking for help on what you guys think the value of this car would be as is and for ideas on building.

This is a 1969 Dart 6cyl that a little old lady literally owned. I looked at the car and there really isn't rust to speak of besides surface stuff than can be blasted away. Trying to decide if the car is worth working with.

The purpose for the car would be for drag racing.

POWERTRAIN:
Don't scream brand loyalty, but I have a 416 cid 13.5:1 LS3 engine that makes around 650rwhp and would mate it to a TH400, custom driveshaft to a rear end which would be undecided. I have reasonable fab skills, can weld, will be doing most of the work myself.
I have no problem w/a 440 (use to have one long ago in late 70s), but I would wonder what it might cost to build one today.

Q: Which rear end/susp setup would be good for this car? How far can you push these unibodies and /or are there stiffening pieces out there. would love to see pics of this

INTERIOR:
I'll try to restore the current dash or buy another, add 2 buckets and some black carpet all inside a full cage.

Q: Any good places to buy restoration parts for the MOPARS?

SUSPENSION:
Any suggested setups for steering and front suspension? This is NOT going to a roadcourse.

Last, is this car worth $2500? All I would get out of it is the body when I'm done stripping it.

Thanks for reading


This car is well worth the $2500 you are asking. I am seriously contemplating a road trip with the car trailer as I would love to have another, we have two 69 GTs that are built and very nice, mine and my son's. I would love to get that one running,, not even paint, redo the interior and drive it!

To address the LS issue, or in my opinion, no issue at all. Its done, light weight, makes stupid power and you have it. To build a small block mopar engine making that kind of power will cost insane money. Trust me, I have one and it doesn't make that power. To build a BB Mopar, well...you know the answer to that question. The purists will run you into the ground but I say, if you plan on keeping the car, DO IT!!! If you still plan on selling the car...we really need to talk about me buying it!

ps...I have a bitchin looking 3.5 cowl hood on my 69 B7 Blue aluminum headed and stroked 408 Dart GT and it looks badass!! Unless someone wants to gift the money to build a "pure" Mopar...don't worry what they say and build it your way and make it uniquely yours.
 
This car is well worth the $2500 you are asking. I am seriously contemplating a road trip with the car trailer as I would love to have another, we have two 69 GTs that are built and very nice, mine and my son's. I would love to get that one running,, not even paint, redo the interior and drive it!

To address the LS issue, or in my opinion, no issue at all. Its done, light weight, makes stupid power and you have it. To build a small block mopar engine making that kind of power will cost insane money. Trust me, I have one and it doesn't make that power. To build a BB Mopar, well...you know the answer to that question. The purists will run you into the ground but I say, if you plan on keeping the car, DO IT!!! If you still plan on selling the car...we really need to talk about me buying it!

ps...I have a bitchin looking 3.5 cowl hood on my 69 B7 Blue aluminum headed and stroked 408 Dart GT and it looks badass!! Unless someone wants to gift the money to build a "pure" Mopar...don't worry what they say and build it your way and make it uniquely yours.

Hey!! Hey!! Unhitch till I check it out. : )
 
The thought has occurred to turbo the 6. That could be interesting
I just spent the weekend at Mopars in the Park and met a gentleman that built a duster into a supercharged 6 that makes 595 wheel HP and has been 10.70s. I have a few pics of it and it is an impressive machine. He bought it when he was 19
 
I just spent the weekend at Mopars in the Park and met a gentleman that built a duster into a supercharged 6 that makes 595 wheel HP and has been 10.70s. I have a few pics of it and it is an impressive machine. He bought it when he was 19
Cool car and it runs like a scalded dog.
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Western sport special. I had one of those. B5 blue, rallye steering wheel, blue interior, white top, slant six. Looks like he's throwing in 73-76 A body disc setup. All you need are upper arms, or sleeve adaptors for original upper arms, and disc brake lowers n bolts like i mentioned. Looks like a solid start.
 
what power level are the A727 trans good for? Also, would the 69 Dart slant 6 have come w/this trans?

I found a 72 Coronet with a 400. Was thinking the engine, trans and diff might make good donors. check now the see what diff it has.
 
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