The impossible to solve overheating problem

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Well I've skimmed across all the posts so far , "all good things mentioned, and I don't think I read anyone mentioning that you might want to MAKE SURE THE RADIATOR CAP IS GOOD or it won't hold pressure, also it needs to be RATED 16LBS OR HIGHER with an aluminum radiator.

And the first and biggest thing here is that you got 58CC OPEN CHAMBERS with I don't know what piston and with TINY 262 CAM. Do us all a favor DO A CRANKIMG COMPRESSION TEST and report back. Make sure it's fully warmed ,up carb wide open.


My j heads are 59cc, 9.99 .1 compression WITH QUENCH and I can't run more than 28 total under any load or it will ping like a hammer and I also run an 8 blade water pump and 1 row aluminum radiator with 19" fan and no shroud.

I would like to know more about this motor of yours because it sounds like it was a blindfolded decision to mill the heads based on assumption of pistons, perhaps... and the 262 is capturing a ton cyl pressure... it be cranking 190psi.
 
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For overheat at 50mph;
Either;
There is not enough coolant in the system,
or the coolant isn't what you think it is,
or the coolant isn't circulating properly,
or the rad is not shedding heat properly
or there is another source of heat entering the system, that the system just cannot deal with.
It's just that simple.
Everyone has touched on every one of these points, with good tests to prove each of them.

My money is on magnumdart's test .
The heater core is a bypass,like the bigger elbow. But both send the hot water back into the pump for another go around. I would to his test with both of those bypasses defeated and I would install a gutted stat or a restrictor washer for the test, to speed things up. The pump should empty your rad in a couple of seconds, at idle, making a gusher under the hood. Try not to drown the carb.
 
I know this might be a stupid question but are you sure the electric fan is pulling the air through the rad and not pushing, at 45 MPH it might just stall the air altogether. Anyway that fan is junk, I got a air flow meter and tested almost every fan that was rated 3000 CFM and found that none flowed more than 1500 CFM most were between 800 and 1200 CFM. I can't find the name of the fan I used but I think they are in Tn. They claimed 2650 CFM and the best fan you can buy so I got one and when I put the air flow meter on it it was 2650 and blew twice as hard as any other fan I checked, It would blow your hand away from it. And I had to get a Walker 4 core rad to keep it cool, it was a 11:1 400 chevy in a model A sedan delivery.
 
buddy had a head gasket that went bad, overheated it every time. Pressure/vacuum check on radiator would confirm this. The classic Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable fan pack was a real blowhard. I think it would draw up to 50A on initial startup. It must puull thtough 100% of the fan core. I had a friend who drove me to Vegas in his V6 Thunderbird. We were getting a little hot, then alot hot and had to pull over. I popped the hood and his fan was 18" behind the radiator (V6 is shorter than the 5.0) I asked where the shroud went and he said he took it off to replace a belt and never put it back on. Even at 70mph, the rad would not cool. I believe the air at that speed would rather go around the high pressure of the grill than through it without the fan pulling through a shroud.
 
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I don't think I saw anyone mention to flush out the block. If the block water passages are full of crap, proper cooling will not take place. Take out the drain plugs on each side of the block, and put a hose in the radiator with a towel wrapped around it so you can build pressure, and FLUSH until the water runs clear.
 
harrisonm said:
I don't think I saw anyone mention to flush out the block. If the block water passages are full of crap, proper cooling will not take place. Take out the drain plugs on each side of the block, and put a hose in the radiator with a towel wrapped around it so you can build pressure, and FLUSH until the water runs clear.
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I did mention the radiator could be restricted due to rust and debris from the block, but I am sure he's already checked that.

:rofl:
 
Dubob said:
I’m looking at your pictures, it appears everything is lower than the top hose. It even appears the hose to the surge tank is below that upper hose in height. If that’s the case my suspect would be that you have air trapped in the system and it has no way to burp. Again just by looking at pictures.
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
THIS IS WORTH A SHOT--- JACK THE FRONT END UP, START THE ENGINE , LET IT RUN AND SEE IF U NEED MORE COOLANT, COULD BE TRAPPED AIR. MIGHT HELP IF THE CAP SIDE OF THE RAD. IS A LITTLE HIGHER TOO.
I HAVE TO BE CAREFUL W/ THIS MYSELF.
 
There is a ton of great stuff here I have to check. For the moment I have a garage booked tomorrow just make sure that its not a head gasket/crack before doing any more. Will report back afterwards and get started on the tests posted :)
 
I agree with what's been said here. But looking at the pic of the rubber freeze plug, that is way thicker than a standard plug. It could very possibly be blocking flow. I would fix that, put a spring in the lower hose. You get them from mustang suppliers. I'm told you can't see the hose suck closed because it only does it while driving. And fling that stupid fan as far as you can. You need a mechanical fan and shroud. Period. You will have to possibly make a shroud. I suggest using the Summit stainless steel fan. It's about $40. If you don't like that, the Mopar thermostatic clutch fan works awesome The fan needs to be 1/2 way in the shroud. This is the basics that have to be done first. Also, make sure the hood to radiator seal is in place. And I put the thermostat in a pot of water and verified the opening. I went through all this with my Dart. The answer is not one thing it's alot of little things that together will solve your problem.
 
furyus2 said:
I agree with what's been said here. But looking at the pic of the rubber freeze plug, that is way thicker than a standard plug. It could very possibly be blocking flow. I would fix that, put a spring in the lower hose. You get them from mustang suppliers. I'm told you can't see the hose suck closed because it only does it while driving. And fling that stupid fan as far as you can. You need a mechanical fan and shroud. Period. You will have to possibly make a shroud. I suggest using the Summit stainless steel fan. It's about $40. If you don't like that, the Mopar thermostatic clutch fan works awesome The fan needs to be 1/2 way in the shroud. This is the basics that have to be done first. Also, make sure the hood to radiator seal is in place. And I put the thermostat in a pot of water and verified the opening. I went through all this with my Dart. The answer is not one thing it's alot of little things that together will solve your problem.
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Yeah it does stick in quite a bit compared to a metal one, it would also make sense as the problem sprung up after that change.. I looked at the lower hose while revving the engine at 4000rpm and it didnt collapse, that type of hose apparently does not need a spring but if the next few checks dont help I will have to start looking at that again. Did you have a case where alot of small things acted together? Have thought the fact about that it could be lots of small contributing factors which would be a pain.
 
Unfortunately I didnt get to check for combustion gases in the coolant today as I woke up with a migraine and had to cancel the slot in the garage, will hopefully get a new time on Monday.
 
purplehazenils said:
Unfortunately I didnt get to check for combustion gases in the coolant today as I woke up with a migraine and had to cancel the slot in the garage, will hopefully get a new time on Monday.
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I suffer from those from time to time and it's horrible.

With my overheating issue, recently resolved, thanks to guys here, it ended up being a combination of radiator cap, thermostat, faulty clutch fan and radiator/cooling system that needed to be flushed. Now she runs 190 all day long.
 
Get a prescription for Relpax for migraines. Please re read my post. That hose only sucks shut when driving. You won't see it just revving the engine.
 
furyus2 said:
Get a prescription for Relpax for migraines. Please re read my post. That hose only sucks shut when driving. You won't see it just revving the engine.
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So, inertia, why just give a red x? How about state what it is you disagree with?
You don't like Relpax? You saying you can see the hose collapse when at rest?
Speak up, inquiring minds want to know!
 
I just saw the picture of the bottom hose, since I was looking at it on a cell phone earlier. That particular hose probably wont collapse, but I bet it hurts flow.
 
furyus2 said:
Get a prescription for Relpax for migraines. Please re read my post. That hose only sucks shut when driving. You won't see it just revving the engine.
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I use Zoomig nasal which works great but you have to take it at the very first sign otherwise its pretty noneffective. Will have to check it out.
 
furyus2 said:
I just saw the picture of the bottom hose, since I was looking at it on a cell phone earlier. That particular hose probably wont collapse, but I bet it hurts flow.
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The hose in the photo was only temporary after installing the new cooling system, the lower radiator hose that I have run is in the photos below. Its not perfect but alot better for flow than the one in the first photo. Its super beefy, you cant collapse it with your hands.

DSC_1391.JPG


DSC_1392.JPG
 
The corrugated hose creates a lot of turbulence, disrupting flow.
 
Also anither good point, if a bunch of scale was settled in block,it could be carried up into rad. Could be plugged.
 
furyus2 said:
So, inertia, why just give a red x? How about state what it is you disagree with?
You don't like Relpax? You saying you can see the hose collapse when at rest?
Speak up, inquiring minds want to know!
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I don't explain why I "like, agree, or thanks" for any posts, but you insist on an explanation for a "disagree", - for you, I will. You stated that the lower hose will only suck closed while driving. That is incorrect,. I have seen at least 3 sucked shut in my shop revving the engine. The most memorable one was an old Caddy, the lower hose was so oil contaminated, and soft, even with a pressurized system, it sucked shut, another was a Ford Falcon 6 cyl. I don't remember the third vehicle, just the hose, pass side. All were molded hoses, no spring. That's why you got the big red X. cheers
 
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inertia said:
I don't explain why I "like, agree, or thanks" for any posts, but you insist on an explanation for a "disagree", - for you, I will. You stated that the lower hose will only suck closed while driving. That is incorrect,. I have seen at least 3 sucked shut in my shop revving the engine. The most memorable one was an old Caddy, the lower hose was so oil contaminated, and soft, even with a pressurized system, it sucked shut, another was a Ford Falcon 6 cyl. I don't remember the third vehicle, just the hose, pass side. All were molded hoses, no spring. That's why you got the big red X. cheers
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There is no reason why a car would have to be in motion to effect wether or not the lower hose would close up, the water pump impeller rpm could care less of vehicle speed.
 
Zactly !

And I "agreed" with MOPAROFFICIAL because his common sense is the same as mine.

That OK with you furyus2 ? ? ?
 
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