Ol'forest
Well-Known Member
Hi guys, anyone here got an aluminium drive shaft on their a-bod? What did you use, are there any cheap options? Chopped down ram shaft for example? Be keen to hear what's out there.
Aluminum Drive Shaft Options?
- Thread starter Ol'forest
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Blucuda413
Well-Known Member
I used a Ford Van shaft which had 1350 joints on each end. Had to cut it a few inches and it fills up the tunnel. Haven't used it yet but will soon.
Im considering going aluminum shaft. Mancini has a few that are not too pricey.
Blucuda413
Well-Known Member
This Ford shaft is aluminum, about 3.5" diameter, with the right joints. I bought it on ebay and it was brand new. Paid $60, it cost me more than that to get it shortened. Just need to keep looking. My son bought a new unused Denny's alum shaft on the bag but when it arrived it was 2" shorter than advertised. Luckily it fit a friends Stang perfectly so he bought it.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Interesting. What vehicles should you look for to score aluminum driveshaft?
roccodart440
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The problem with running an aluminum driveshaft in our cars is the diameter causes exhaust fitment issues.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
Id like to toss one on my race only car so that be a non issue but great advice for street cars.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
Discarded nuclear reactor fuel rod tubing.
604B1duster
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I believe some ford crown Vic’s have them with 1350 joints also.
aengineguy
Well-Known Member
I guess I did not want to take any chances and had Inland Empire build a 3 1/2 unit with 1350's. It was spendy......about 600.
72Dart6pack
Harder Better Faster Stronger.
What's the reason you want one?
Chevy truck drive shaft will be cheapest.
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
I was wondering how an aluminum shaft 3.5" in diameter would fit. Exhaust fitment issues brings up a good point...I have 2.5" TTI X-pipe exhaust...I am in the market for a driveshaft. Dana 60, 4 speed, 408ci SB.
myduster360
Well-Known Member
2001 Ford Crown Vic Police 3.5"
Local yard for $100
Local yard for $100
604B1duster
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Jegs has one that’s 45.5 center to center with 1350 joints for a mustang, $299
What was the original length on that?
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Long,,~55" center to center.
That length just so happens to fit my 3.6L, T5, 7-1/4 perfectly.
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Funny how some stuff works out like that huh?
That's cool. I may look into that, although mine will have to be shortened pretty substantially if I go that route when I install a T56 behind my 340. It's already longer than the driveshaft with a 340/A833/8.75".
myduster360
Well-Known Member
Most Al driveshafts i found were under 50" so Yeah I lucked out.
It'll have to get shortened once I get the 8-1/4 installed(disks, suregrip, 4.56, Hyperco) but until i get the rest of the car sort out, it'll do for now.
Blucuda413
Well-Known Member
My research disclosed that the Crown Vic shafts were excellent candidates if you could work with 1320 (Ford HD) joints which I believe is their common size. Because of that I got the Ford van unit which was long enough to shorten to my needed 55" and although it filled up the shaft tunnel I had no exhaust so it worked great at a fantastic cost.
Frank Mopar
Well-Known Member
What u joint does the van use?
myduster360
Well-Known Member
The Crown Vic driveshaft I used had 1330 ujoints.
The "Conversion" to a 7260 Mopar actually spec out to be for a 91-93 Dakota. I used a Neapco Brute Force 20599BF
The "Conversion" to a 7260 Mopar actually spec out to be for a 91-93 Dakota. I used a Neapco Brute Force 20599BF
Blucuda413
Well-Known Member
You are correct the crown does use 1330 not 1320 joints. However I already had both trans and rearend yokes for 1350s so that what I hunted for. One neat thing is that there is a adaptive joint which is 1330 to 1350 and I'm told it is a very strong unit.
fklskv, The van unit was brand new and had new 1350 joints on it. Exactly what I needed but I had to shorten it several inches. Thanks, Max
mopardude318
Well-Known Member
bringing this up again, I have a question about an aftermarket chromoly trans slip yoke I have... like the rear, it has u-joint caps. what is the purpose of this? Is one style better than the other? one good thing I guess is when pulling the DS, you can leave the yoke in and not have fluid drip all over...
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