Upgrade intake manifold?

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Dave Haertel

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Ok, so I currently have a dual plane Weiand Action Plus 8007 that was on the car when I purchased it. Took it off to solve a problem with the new distributor not seating correctly, needed to check the cam and oil pump gears.

Now that it's off, and I can probably spring for a new intake if I wanted to, any suggestions on whether it's worth it to spring for an Edelbrock performer air gap? Or another intake you'd suggest?

Details:
340/360 (long story, still researching but believe it's actually a 360, not a 340 like I was told).
Mild cam, not sure which one as it was built when I bought it
Heads unknown as well due to same as above
New 650cfm Holley 4 barrel.
 
Thats already a good intake. May need a little bit of port matching to maximize its true potential.
 
Go this route.

0115161704.jpg
 
A good 4 barrel intake and carb will mudhole a 6 pack. Looks like tarzan.... LOL

Keep what you have, save a bunch of money and get the tune up right. :)
 
A good 4 barrel intake and carb will mudhole a 6 pack. Looks like tarzan.... LOL

Keep what you have, save a bunch of money and get the tune up right. :)

Thanks, I've been told it's a good intake. But the performer air gap seems to be the one that everyone talks about.
 
Stick with the weiand you probably won't get any real gains using anything else with the engine as it is. Spend your money elsewhere
 
Stick with the weiand you probably won't get any real gains using anything else with the engine as it is. Spend your money elsewhere

Thanks. At some point in the next year, I'll be doing a top end on it, but figured I could do this one quick thing while it's off if it would have been worth it. The consensus seems to be to keep it.
 
Ok, so I currently have a dual plane Weiand Action Plus 8007 that was on the car when I purchased it. Took it off to solve a problem with the new distributor not seating correctly, needed to check the cam and oil pump gears.

Now that it's off, and I can probably spring for a new intake if I wanted to, any suggestions on whether it's worth it to spring for an Edelbrock performer air gap? Or another intake you'd suggest?

Details:
340/360 (long story, still researching but believe it's actually a 360, not a 340 like I was told).
Mild cam, not sure which one as it was built when I bought it
Heads unknown as well due to same as above
New 650cfm Holley 4 barrel.
I always heard they're too finicky to get into sync (the carbs)? Or is that an old wives tale?
Wives tail. The people that tell you that ether never had one or can’t tune a carb properly.


Thanks, I've been told it's a good intake. But the performer air gap seems to be the one that everyone talks about.

While you do not nearly have enough information about your engine , never mind about the rest of the car and what your doing with it.... Insuggest sticking with the intake you have now. A switch to the Edelbrock doesn’t mean you will instantly make more HP or Tq.

We have a class racer here that always states;

“In my application the Weiand et’s better than the.....”
 
Wives tail. The people that tell you that ether never had one or can’t tune a carb properly.




While you do not nearly have enough information about your engine , never mind about the rest of the car and what your doing with it.... Insuggest sticking with the intake you have now. A switch to the Edelbrock doesn’t mean you will instantly make more HP or Tq.

We have a class racer here that always states;

“In my application the Weiand et’s better than the.....”

Thanks, yea, unfortunately I bought the car with the motor intact and it was a flip sale so I have no real idea what's in the motor. That's one of the reasons I plan on saving for the parts to rebuild it in the next year or two.

As for plans for the car, at the moment it's my driver and I anticipate it staying that way. I'm not interested in taking her to the strip, just having a peppy fun to drive small block that will light them up when I want and give me the adrenaline boost when I stomp her. No real idea as far as numbers go but I know these can easily get into the 350 plus both HP and Torque so I'm assuming at least that. I'll be doing some research on what to buy to get there and maybe I can re-use some of the parts, maybe not.
 
Why not maximize what you have already? Bet that intake is ootb untouched. Carb a/f ratio and jetting dialed in? Ignition timing and curve ideal? Save the cash, port that thing! And maximize what you have. You'll gain more than you'd think. If you need pictures of work that can be done to one of those I got 'em. There's alot of room for improvement.
 
Why not maximize what you have already? Bet that intake is ootb untouched. Carb a/f ratio and jetting dialed in? Ignition timing and curve ideal? Save the cash, port that thing! And maximize what you have. You'll gain more than you'd think. If you need pictures of work that can be done to one of those I got 'em. There's alot of room for improvement.
Seen a couple of YouTube's on porting them wasn't sure about the actual results and how much to truly take off.
 
Seen a couple of YouTube's on porting them wasn't sure about the actual results and how much to truly take off.
All I did on mine was round/smooth the runner sides and roof of each from the plenum junction, and port matched and smoothed the runner roofs about 1-1/2" in. Smoothing and rounding, not really enlarging (other than the gasket match) is easy, and safe I'd say, and when you study that intake you'll easily see where the work needs to be done. I leaned heavily on David Vizard articles and others about typical proven results from simple clean-up of intakes without getting into extensive porting.
 
All I did on mine was round/smooth the runner sides and roof of each from the plenum junction, and port matched and smoothed the runner roofs about 1-1/2" in. Smoothing and rounding, not really enlarging (other than the gasket match) is easy, and safe I'd say, and when you study that intake you'll easily see where the work needs to be done. I leaned heavily on David Vizard articles and others about typical proven results from simple clean-up of intakes without getting into extensive porting.

Thanks, appreciate the tips. I'll have a look. Probably not putting it back together until this weekend so there's time to get a plan together.
 
Just look at the balancer. A Symetrical balancer (no weird off kilter weight cast in) would tell you if its a 273/340 or a external balance 360. Or you can always look on the passenger side of the block under the exhaust manifold for a big 340 or 360 casting.
 
I just did this thread...
Weiand Action Plus vs Edelbrock RPM

Also, no researching needed to see what motor you have. Crawl under the drivers side and look... it will say 340 or 360 or, or 318 :D. Or, you can look under the drivers head on the front of the block. Sometimes very hard to read here as I've seen the numbers were faintly stamped.
 
Driver side of the block is easiest. The numbers are embossed (cast in/raised)
Look at The sequence of numbers, at the end of the long sequence, the displacement is cast in. And then a dash in a few numbers and a dash and stuff like that.
 
I just did this thread...
Weiand Action Plus vs Edelbrock RPM

Also, no researching needed to see what motor you have. Crawl under the drivers side and look... it will say 340 or 360 or, or 318 :D. Or, you can look under the drivers head on the front of the block. Sometimes very hard to read here as I've seen the numbers were faintly stamped.
So the research question is because I had a mechanic swap the steering column for me, I’m just too old, and outta shape to be laying upside down and I probably would have had to pull the drivers seat anyway. So while he had it I had him spec it and there are 2 stamping done says 340 one says 360. I’ll try and get pictures of them both to upload maybe someone can help sort it out
 
So the research question is because I had a mechanic swap the steering column for me, I’m just too old, and outta shape to be laying upside down and I probably would have had to pull the drivers seat anyway. So while he had it I had him spec it and there are 2 stamping done says 340 one says 360. I’ll try and get pictures of them both to upload maybe someone can help sort it out
Drivers seat?? you are supposed to be looking at the driver's side of the engine block. Anyone that changes oil for you can let you know what it says.... OR..... look under the drivers head at the front of the engine block. Flashlight and a wire brush may bring the stamp to light :)
 
Here is what you are looking for; it is under the exhaust manifolds way down on the side of the block. Use a mechanic's mirror (on an extendable stick) and a flashlight if you can't get underneath. The last 3 digits are separated from the rest and will be 360 or 340.

How to ID a Small Block Engine Block:
 
Drivers seat?? you are supposed to be looking at the driver's side of the engine block. Anyone that changes oil for you can let you know what it says.... OR..... look under the drivers head at the front of the engine block. Flashlight and a wire brush may bring the stamp to light :)

No, what I was saying is I'm too big to lay on the floor and change the steering column out, I'd have to take out the seat to fit. The mechanic that did the steering column did the ID and said it was a 340, I never followed up, but when I looked at the front stamping it said 360, thus the 2 different identifications. I'm under the hood today to put the manifold back on so I'll get a definite ID before hand obviously. I'll upload the pictures of the stampings.
 
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