75 Dart - 340 - Header's Choice's

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Andrew Savage

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Hello Guys

Currently owner of a 1975 Dodge Dart SE 2doors Hardtop !

Engine is a 1970 Dodge Demon 340 4BBL, the headers that are now on is the long tube ones and they are wasted from hitting the ground too much even if I lift up the front !

So those were installed and destroyed not long after because of the ground clearance..

My question is, ive searched the net, read couple of forum's and im planning to get the Shorty's Header's from Heddman since the Long one will get destroyed again or if you think Dougg's or TTI ones have a different design ? I know that the Shorty's Header's will need some fitment at the collector attachment, people say that you need to give it more angle to clear steering arm ?

Thank you for taking the time to complete a refresh of my old Mopar !

**EDITED because of Apostrophe abuse
 
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Apostrophe abuse. There's help for that.
 
Doug's are not bad... I helped install a set in a 69 Dart and they don't hang down...

Wait for a sale to get a good price on them...
 
Autozone ha's 20% off s'ale's s'ometime's, and S'ummit's ha's price matche's.

See how fucked up apostrophes are? Autocorrect messes everything up.
 
TTI'S...............


TTi's Long tube ? The budget will not be a problem.. but for sure I will search for a discount on different site ! Im looking for something that will last and wont be a problem for the ground clearance, im not looking for a 4x4 height just for shinny headers !

By that I mean that I will pay for TTi's expecting the design and curve will match my car and needs, looking forward for TTi 340A-C4 !

Thank you for being nice still :thumbsup:
 
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TTI and Dougs makes longtubes that dont hang low.
Hedman shortys has a screwed up collectorslocation/angle but except for that they seem to be fine.
TTI makes shortys aswell.
Sandersson makes shortys,but seem to have some isues with their partnumbering to figure out,but once they figure that part out they may be on to something good.
Schumacher offer a tri-Y header for smallblocks that looks real nice but i have not seen much else about those.
 
Maybe I got a bad set, but I have a set of Hedmanns that have only a few hours on them and they split at the collector where the primaries come together. I called Hedmann today and they said they will replace them but I'm not sure I want to go through the trouble to have it happen again. IF it was my fault, I'm wondering if I didn't have enough flexibility in the exhaust system or my mixture is lean..but with them being basically brand new? I don't know. Just putting my experience out there for consideration or to see if someone had the same happen to them. Not happy.
 
I'm in the process of installing Schumacher Tri-y's on my 73 Dart Sport now. They are made from some good steel - heavy compared to others I've seen. The fit is OK but not as good as advertised. With a Borgeson steering box the driver side clears. On the passenger side, with the engine placed according to Schumacher guidelines, the idler arm fouls 2 tubes. Schumacher says they should clear, but they don't. I'll have to dimple them. Also, they have the ball and socket fitting, which I like, not a flange on the ends.
 
I'm in the process of installing Schumacher Tri-y's on my 73 Dart Sport now. They are made from some good steel - heavy compared to others I've seen. The fit is OK but not as good as advertised. With a Borgeson steering box the driver side clears. On the passenger side, with the engine placed according to Schumacher guidelines, the idler arm fouls 2 tubes. Schumacher says they should clear, but they don't. I'll have to dimple them. Also, they have the ball and socket fitting, which I like, not a flange on the ends.


Have you checked if your engine is level in the enginecompartment and if the steering centerlink is level aswell?
Just a thought,these cars where not very wellbuilt in the first place and 40+ years of use and abuse dont improve the tolerances alot.

It is obvious that not all headers are made just right,but it has also become evident over the years that a whole lot has to do with the cars themself.
 
The engine is level front to back and side to side based off the intake manifold carb mounting surface. Schumacher gives the engine location based on the distance of the crank bolt off of the driver frame rail and distance above the K member. I'm at that location and still have the foul with the idler arm.
 
The engine is level front to back and side to side based off the intake manifold carb mounting surface. Schumacher gives the engine location based on the distance of the crank bolt off of the driver frame rail and distance above the K member. I'm at that location and still have the foul with the idler arm.

Thats good,is it possible that the idlerarm or K-Frame got a big hit at some time and got bent or possibly even the mount for the idlerarm messed up from the factory? thats regarding why i thought it might be worth checking if the centerlink sits level aswell,Would not be surprised if the header is not perfect just giving you a few more things to check to make sure the correct thing gets adjusted. a measuring tape and one of those thingys with a bubble can be very handy at times.

Used to work with exhaustsystems and even thougth we didnt do many mopars and especialy not many Abodies, i learnt alot walking around with a tapemeasure under the more plentyfull first and second gen Camaros and Firebirds and those where all over the map regarding all kinds of tolerances,I had a notebook where i wrote down the measurements from the cars that i found that didnt seem quite right and i realy wich i had kept that book.
 
Thanks! I'll be recheck in all the measurements before I start dimpling the tubes. Would sure like the to avoid it if possible.
 
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