And so it starts... 340 build

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rumblefish360

I have escaped the EVIL Empire State!
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Well, I’d thought I’d post up a thread on some garbage I have. This is an engine refreshing. Hone the cylinders and reinstall the slugs it cams with and I was lucky enough to not need to rebore the engines cylinders. Dated 9-30-71.
This is a no rush build that will be finished when it is finished.
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Now, not having started at this level of a entirely bare block, where do these go? Side of the block IIRC. Normally this is a small potato job along with freeze/frost plugs I have the machinist do for a small fee which accelerated the home build.
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Plenty of material. I’m sure I’ll have extras....
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Here is a handy tip for you new guys diving into an engine build. Cut a small circle in the bag as to slip over the shaft. This helps cover the engine entirely.
Low chance of water or humidity getting in now!
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And another handy tip for you novice engine builders.
This is a “sacrificial” 6 inch 3/8 drive extension. It is a good fit for the plugs at the front of the block. A little more Indian head gasket and drive them in a bit. They should be counter sunk.
There is also a trick mod to be done here later. A small drill hole on the driver side plug to spray some oil onto the timing chain for that little extra oil insurance that can only help during high rpm runs. A drilled a 3/32 hole in the plug. I think that was a bit big when I was done. Installed now. Coffee break.... LOL
(Not that this engine will, maybe, I think. OH! I don’t know....)

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drill a hole in both plugs- for oil as you say but also to bled any trapped air/ air bubbles
some motors you can drill a hole to squirt at the leading edge of the cam/ dist gear
you can drill through the thrust into the main oil galley .040 through the cast iron .060 through the thrust
Engine Builder mag that showed up online today mentions chamfering the parting line of the thrust (main) toward the rear- been doing that for 40 years
 
Engine Builder mag - mentions chamfering the parting line of the thrust (main) toward the rear- been doing that for 40 years
Sorry, come again.

The distributor gear oil mod will not be done. Broken equipment limitations. Also, there is no need for this mod at this time on this engine. It will not be that radical at all.
 
You're not putting brass plugs in? Do you have a reason?
Why do you ask?
Will they not both do the job?
Please don’t come back with longevity reasons. While true, you really have something better to do besides split hairs with stupid comments don’t you?
:lol:
 
Just asking. :)
LOL, of course and my bad for not answering while pulling your tail!
I’m making use of what is on hand sitting around collecting dust. And I have much dust to clear.


Plastigage time. Checking the middle.
All surfaces cleaned with alcohol. 10/30 oil on the bolts. Torque them down and then remove the center cap.
Do not rotate the crank kids. You’ll just smear the plastigage around and you’ll have to do it again.
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Bingo! Right where it needs to be.
I’ll check end play tomorrow. I’m running out of time today.
Dinner brake & assorted B.S. to run through.

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Watching this one! Did you hone it or have the shop do it? I bought some ball hones I can't wait to try. What work did you do to the crankshaft? Going this route with my 318 to learn with junior. Not my first but been a while. Thanks!
 
Watching this one! Did you hone it or have the shop do it? I bought some ball hones I can't wait to try. What work did you do to the crankshaft? Going this route with my 318 to learn with junior. Not my first but been a while. Thanks!
Thanks for tuning in Dan.
Have fun with your son. Mine just popped in and out on this. No real interest in it.
I had a race shop do the work. I dropped the crank off and said if it can be polished, please do so (as cutting is more money but if it needs it, it needs it.)
On the block, same deal, if you can hone it......
That and bearings ran about $250.
The slugs are old TRW’s. New moly rings from Summit racing. About a hundred bucks. Valley plugs and frost plugs were needed.
Total into the parts is approximately $400. Give or take. I try and not look at recipes as there depressing. And truth be told, to really don’t care.

I forgot to get cam bearings. And a few other small things. So, there will be a delay... LOL! But I have most everything...* I think!*
 
Thanks for tuning in Dan.
Have fun with your son. Mine just popped in and out on this. No real interest in it.
I had a race shop do the work. I dropped the crank off and said if it can be polished, please do so (as cutting is more money but if it needs it, it needs it.)
On the block, same deal, if you can hone it......
That and bearings ran about $250.
The slugs are old TRW’s. New moly rings from Summit racing. About a hundred bucks. Valley plugs and frost plugs were needed.
Total into the parts is approximately $400. Give or take. I try and not look at recipes as there depressing. And truth be told, to really don’t care.

I forgot to get cam bearings. And a few other small things. So, there will be a delay... LOL! But I have most everything...* I think!*

Awesome. That's exactly the route we want to take with the machine shop. Good luck with your build!
 
Setting end play article on chamfering for more oiling I also drill through the upper brass area into the main oil galley .040 oil always wants to take the easy way out to the frong there is a reason Ma Mopar went to wider thrusts

Frong ?
 
Nice thread...will follow this one for sure.
Im pretty new here. Cut my teeth on B bodies and BBs, but Im with you completely on the receipts. Ive sold a few cars and when the buyers asked if I had any receipts, I always just replied with "I dont want to know how much Ive spent". Truth.
 
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