Have any of you done this Amp Meter by pass? If so, looking at their picture of the 16 gage fusible Link coming off the starter relay, are both the Red and Black wires attached to the link, or are they spliced together further down??? Thanks a bunch
Have any of you done this Amp Meter by pass? If so, looking at their picture of the 16 gage fusible Link coming off the starter relay, are both the Red and Black wires attached to the link, or are they spliced together further down??? Thanks a bunch
The way they get re-wired the red and black form a parallel path. This does two things..........the new wiring sends charge current direct to battery, so charging current does not have to go through the bulkhead ammeter. This relieves strain on that wiring. Second, the parallel path means that the red and black, working in parallel, work as one big wire to feed current for the rest of the car.......headlights, heater, etc
Some guys don't like the way MAD does that and advocate simply jumpering from the alternator direct to the battery. That is OK, too, but it removes the fuse link protection........which is damn poor to start with
If you do that, I'd add a breaker/ fuse link to the new part of the circuit
I did the upgrade as MAD recommends. I also installed relays for my headlamps and for my dual electric fans. BTW, having a parallel feed through the bulkhead halves the current through the small bulkhead connectors which is the weak point.
I did the upgrade as MAD recommends. I also installed relays for my headlamps and for my dual electric fans. BTW, having a parallel feed through the bulkhead halves the current through the small bulkhead connectors which is the weak point.
If I remember correctly, the madd electrical bypass shows doing away with the bulkhead connectors for the two wires we’re talking about. And drilling out the plastic and running continues wire through and back out, thus eliminating the connectors altogether. At least that’s how I did mine
I did on mine, exactly as it's shown on the schematicI agree, did you splice the black and red at the fusible link? Thanks for your reply
If I remember correctly, the madd electrical bypass shows doing away with the bulkhead connectors for the two wires we’re talking about. And drilling out the plastic and running continues wire through and back out, thus eliminating the connectors altogether. At least that’s how I did mine
Yes I didI agree, did you splice the black and red at the fusible link? Thanks for your reply
West coast time, I just got home from work. This was a 69 GTX with factory alternator. I also added relays for the lights and fuel pump.Man you are up early, what model car did you do this to? Thanks
West coast time, I just got home from work. This was a 69 GTX with factory alternator. I also added relays for the lights and fuel pump.
I'm not a fan of the MAD method. I prefer to run a protected wire from the alt to starter relay, leave all OEM wires in place and bypass the ammeter. If the bulkhead is in good shape, go with it.
Plenty of ways to improve on the crummy charging route of our old mopars.
Pick your parts, pay your money.
Yes run an 8 gauge wire from charge stud to starter relay with a fusible link or fuse holder in it.
I build them.