Clutch Adjustment

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240 gordy

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I have a 69 dart with a 340 4 speed transmission. When I bought it, the clutch was releasing when the pedal was 1/2" off the floor. It is hard to get in gear unless I really push the pedal hard on the floor. I wanted it to release closer to the top and bought all new pieces for the linkage as I thought that was the problem ..Wrong. The car came with a scattershield so there is no way to inspect what is inside. Any adjustment tips ??
 
What I do for the long finger clutches is take the fork lever and push it until the bearing is in contact with the fingers. Adjust the nut until it touches the washer on the fork lever. Then I back off the nut until I have about an 1/8" gap. Try the pedal to see if it has helped.
This should be a good starting point

Field service manual
 
I seem to recall there are 2 different throwout arms, maybe 2 different height pivots. If it's a really heavy p. plate, maybe the t/out arm is bent. Maybe the t/out bearing is too short. A buddy of mine with a 70 Mustang, had issues like that, and it was because the flywheel was surfaced too many times, and the f/wheel was too thin. Since it's a scattershield, it is no longer stock, so it might take some experimenting. A couple guys on the forum had removable covers put in the scattershield to gain access to the innards, which might help here.
 
I seem to recall there are 2 different throwout arms, maybe 2 different height pivots. If it's a really heavy p. plate, maybe the t/out arm is bent. Maybe the t/out bearing is too short. A buddy of mine with a 70 Mustang, had issues like that, and it was because the flywheel was surfaced too many times, and the f/wheel was too thin. Since it's a scattershield, it is no longer stock, so it might take some experimenting. A couple guys on the forum had removable covers put in the scattershield to gain access to the innards, which might help here.


Thanks, need all the info I can get.
 
Is all the clutch linkage tight?
Are you out of adjustment on this rod? If not, try post #5.
upload_2018-9-5_8-0-8.png
 
replace all and I do mean all bushings first that takes up some slack then most important get thicker clutch. pressure plate needs more to hold on to. thicker not a rebuilt..

New clutch, pressure plate and flywheel are next on the list, just hoping to get it out a few times this year before we go south for the winter
 
no I bought a complete 440 dart K frame I offered the man 3500.00 4 exhaust he wanted 7500.00 why not I have 2 383 cudas correct. the 440 dart and cuda manifolds are and made 2 inches longer than 383. not the same. its a ***** getting a 440 in a abody. he has them dam he is lucky. but I bought the 440 K frame 4 600.00 then he woke up.
 
I drop the inspection cover and adjust it so the throw out bearing is 3/16" (or so) away from the clutch fingers. Cycle the pedal a few times and recheck. Perfect everytime.
 
You should be able to see in the where the clutch fork goes in. Every racer on the planet adjusts their clutches and I bet they don't use the pedal free play method.
 
I have a 69 dart with a 340 4 speed transmission. When I bought it, the clutch was releasing when the pedal was 1/2" off the floor. It is hard to get in gear unless I really push the pedal hard on the floor. I wanted it to release closer to the top and bought all new pieces for the linkage as I thought that was the problem ..Wrong. The car came with a scattershield so there is no way to inspect what is inside. Any adjustment tips ??
point make sure all is in line as trans drive shaft. not hard find something and measure side to side any where . b cool sounds like . look at all the piviot points on all tyflon bushings. pedals zfork I callit . pedal has arod to a part that goses to bell housing. if they r or put in a thicker clutch. fiber I amold we used zoom. point thicker dick .b pressure plate grabs 200% better.
 
point make sure all is in line as trans drive shaft. not hard find something and measure side to side any where . b cool sounds like . look at all the piviot points on all tyflon bushings. pedals zfork I callit . pedal has arod to a part that goses to bell housing. if they r ok or put in a thicker clutch disk pressure plates r cheap burn it will work. I am old we used zoom. point thicker disk .b pressure plate grabs 200% better.
one point thanks just ck and how u got your motor mounts. that will ware on all. what I say trans mount and A bodies suck on mounts ware them out solid is best u will win 430 best gears 850 dbl pumped and goes down street
 
You should be able to see in the where the clutch fork goes in. Every racer on the planet adjusts their clutches and I bet they don't use the pedal free play method.

Son is bringing his camera out this weekend and we are going to snake it inside the can to see what is in there and maybe find out what is wrong..
 
You should be able to see in the where the clutch fork goes in. Every racer on the planet adjusts their clutches and I bet they don't use the pedal free play method.


Bet they do. That's how I do it. If there is ANY freeplay and you don't ride the pedal then you are good to go.

I slide under the car, pull the fork to the rear so the fingers touch the bearing, run the adjusting nut up to just touching. Then I back it off until there is a 1/4 inch of freeplay at the pedal and lock it down.

It's how I do them all. Did it on my race car that I shifted at 8500.

For my semi retarded cousin I used 1/2 inch of freeplay. He rides the clutch like a *****. So he gets more freeplay.

All that dicking around with looking at the fingers is a waste of time IMO.
 
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