engine build for reliability

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mrhinsjc

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So let's say you are going to build a small block and the most important goal is reliability. Say your daughter will be driving it. I have a 70 Duster and 69 Dart and both are pretty much blank slates. Both are 318s/ Here are a few of my thoughts.

mini-starter
Toyota alternator
MSD ignition and distributor
fuel injection? Not sure of type
bypass alternator gauge, continuous high-current wire thru bulkhead fitting.

What would you do? Say expense is no object.
 
This isn't going to go over well here. I'd buy her a new Honda Accord! Lol 65'
 
I'd throw a 3/4 speed in there to force her to stay off of her phone, I know fitech makes a very compact 2v efi system for like 800 bucks, I think pertronix would suffice, i'd also do an aluminum rad
 
I agree with a previous post. These cars are very reliable the way they are if they are maintained well- quality parts, good mechanical ability. The only thing that might improve it are some modern upgrades. They would be electronic ignition (Mopar) and a simple bolt-on fuel injection. The rest is just good maintenance- good rubber parts, hoses, belts, tires. Change all the fluids- engine, trans, P/S, brake, rear end. Good quality brakes. A new battery. I did these things for my kids.
 
My Daughter drives a 1967 Barracuda with a 273 with 2 bl carb. Points and std distributor . Rebuilt Mopar alternator. She had it repainted in 1989 but does not drive it in the winter here in Minnesota. Her Barracuda is very reliable and does not let her stranded on the road. Easy to work on and parts are available if needed. I would keep it more original.
 
So let's say you are going to build a small block and the most important goal is reliability. Say your daughter will be driving it. I have a 70 Duster and 69 Dart and both are pretty much blank slates. Both are 318s/ Here are a few of my thoughts.

mini-starter
Toyota alternator
MSD ignition and distributor
fuel injection? Not sure of type
bypass alternator gauge, continuous high-current wire thru bulkhead fitting.

What would you do? Say expense is no object.
None of the above; electric fuel pump and AAA card.
 
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Hah! This will meet with ridicule, but if you really want reliability, pull that 318 and put in a slant. It will run forever...
 
A dead stock 318 is about as reliable as it gets.
Add a pinch of common sense and she'll be good to go.


Jeff
 
if expense is no issue i would buy two high compression 408 strokers
who cares if it blows, i got an extra on anyway
 
So let's say you are going to build a small block and the most important goal is reliability. Say your daughter will be driving it. I have a 70 Duster and 69 Dart and both are pretty much blank slates. Both are 318s/ Here are a few of my thoughts.

mini-starter
Toyota alternator
MSD ignition and distributor
fuel injection? Not sure of type
bypass alternator gauge, continuous high-current wire thru bulkhead fitting.

What would you do? Say expense is no object.

For reliability, pretty much stock. Use as much OEM and as few 'rebuilt' or 'remanufactured' or 'go fast' parts as possible. Use local rebuilder who does work him/herself whenever possible.

Modifications:
* The mini-starters are more reliable than the originals. But the originals aren't terrible. Also easy to change out. call this Optional.
* Alternator. Original will do fine unless the car will be running air conditioning, or idling a lot a night with lights & wipers on. A 'squareback' will handle that. Options will depend on load.
* Leave the ammeter alone. Its useful. Since you're in a humid climate, a parallel wire direct from the alternator output to the ammeter's altenrator side would add reliability. You could do the same from the fusible link to the ammeter's battery side. (aka Nacho's parallel bulkhead bypass).
* MSD distributor. NO. Not necessarily more reliable and the distributor will have a less efficient timing curve. Stock distributor is plenty reliable. Only issue with points is they do wear, the cam wears, and therefore they need regular maint. Good points and condensors are getting harder find (see Halifaxhops for good ones if none local). If that fails the 'reliability' requirement (and I can understand that) then go for a Chrysler built magnetic pickup version with correct advance.
* MSD ignition. The reliablility has varied over the years and there's really no need or advantage to a multi-spark CD ignition on stock engine. OTH it can be triggered by the points distibutor. Other options are Pertronix Ignitor I into the points distributor (check if that's doable), or an externally mounted genuine HEI module with a magnetic pickup distributor. Whatever is purchased, have a spare on hand.
* FI. No. More stuff to go wrong. Requires a new wiring strategy. All this to do what a carb does fine. If there was a ton of emmissions controls, then EFI can have an edge, but not for a '69.

Great engines.
 
5.2 or 5.6 magnum
new timing chain
shift kit
spare crank angle sensor, coil might even mount the spare coil with some quick disconnects and show daughter how to swap- seems to be biggest failure point
second in line fuel pump fuel pressure gauge
should run just about forever 0W-40 eurospec Oil for those cold starts AGM battery

I had a new 68 318 that went 300k but would not want daughter to screw with carb car these days in Michigan
new 92 5.2 truck now over 250 k only call to AAA was crank angle sensor and coil died but not all at once
my daughter drove 77 Pacer wagon- also no failures but she was hard on reverse until I went 999 trans with double wrap band
(steep backing up driveway late to school when cold)
 
Go with a 340'ish grind cast iron core hyd roller in a mag or late LA roller block and use factory spider and rollers.
Msd ignition all around.
Fi tech
Exh manifolds with 2 1/2 pipes.
Headers drag, or cost, or leak, or trap a starter sometimes....etc.
Otherwise a holley 600, for a girl now..,and extra needles and seats in the glove box and a tutorial on how to change them should be given to her.lol
 
Build the Duster
5.2 magnum with 600 cfm
Electric fuel pump
904 with good guts
Rebuilt frontend
Front disc brakes
Power steering
New shocks
MSD 6al with eletronic dist
Led light bulbs
Duel exhaust
Steel wheels w/hub caps
New tires
Painted a color she likes
 
A good upgrade for reliability is a deep trans pan and extra capacity oil pan. The stock pans are marginal in capacity, especially the engine.
 
She's not racing it. Driving it around the island. Deep trans pan got trashed on the streets around here. I did install a small trans cooler, mostly because its has a higher than stock torque converter and does see uh hard use. I agree the stock oil pans are shallow. For autocrossing, a few well placed baffles are adequate. Probably didn't hurt for drag racing either, but don't see how its really a reliability issue on a stock 318.
 
For reliability, pretty much stock. Use as much OEM and as few 'rebuilt' or 'remanufactured' or 'go fast' parts as possible. Use local rebuilder who does work him/herself whenever possible.

Modifications:
* The mini-starters are more reliable than the originals. But the originals aren't terrible. Also easy to change out. call this Optional.
* Alternator. Original will do fine unless the car will be running air conditioning, or idling a lot a night with lights & wipers on. A 'squareback' will handle that. Options will depend on load.
* Leave the ammeter alone. Its useful. Since you're in a humid climate, a parallel wire direct from the alternator output to the ammeter's altenrator side would add reliability. You could do the same from the fusible link to the ammeter's battery side. (aka Nacho's parallel bulkhead bypass).
* MSD distributor. NO. Not necessarily more reliable and the distributor will have a less efficient timing curve. Stock distributor is plenty reliable. Only issue with points is they do wear, the cam wears, and therefore they need regular maint. Good points and condensors are getting harder find (see Halifaxhops for good ones if none local). If that fails the 'reliability' requirement (and I can understand that) then go for a Chrysler built magnetic pickup version with correct advance.
* MSD ignition. The reliablility has varied over the years and there's really no need or advantage to a multi-spark CD ignition on stock engine. OTH it can be triggered by the points distibutor. Other options are Pertronix Ignitor I into the points distributor (check if that's doable), or an externally mounted genuine HEI module with a magnetic pickup distributor. Whatever is purchased, have a spare on hand.
* FI. No. More stuff to go wrong. Requires a new wiring strategy. All this to do what a carb does fine. If there was a ton of emmissions controls, then EFI can have an edge, but not for a '69.

Great engines.
Although strictly speaking not an engine reliability issue, there is one modification I that is very worthwhile if driving at night. Install a pair of fused relays for powering the headlights. This will take load off of the headlight switch, the connector, the hi/low switch, the little 18 gage wires to the lamps as well as the bulkhead connections for the headlights and the main line from the alternator. Member 'crackedback' sells a plug in kit, or you can go to Daniel Stern lighting for a diagram if you want to make your own.
 
Some great info here. I do agree with the 318 or the 225 though.
 
Build the Duster
5.2 magnum with 600 cfm
Electric fuel pump
904 with good guts
Rebuilt frontend
Front disc brakes
Power steering
New shocks
MSD 6al with eletronic dist
Led light bulbs
Duel exhaust
Steel wheels w/hub caps
New tires
Painted a color she likes


This, but rebuild the 318 they LAST FOR EVER.
@TrailBeast for HEI. distributer
 
360's go just as far and long as 318s.
With money no object I highly recommend a moderately cammed 360 with aluminum heads and cylinder pressure cranked up to 185psi, and a spreadbore carb. I got one of those to go 12.9/106 and 32 mpgs. OK wait, the 32 was with double overdrive lol; the final drive ratio was 1.966 lol.... 65 was 1530 or something.Unbelievable BB type, crapyurpants low-rpm torque.
 
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