New balancer won’t press on

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DDemon

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I have a new power bond balancer that I’m having a hard time pressing on. I had a shop take .002 off the inside and now it slides on easily to about halfway (3/4”) and then seems to hit something (?). My balancer installer is bottomed out in the crank, the keyway is lined up, crank is new, I just, put on the front cover, water pump, and oil pan, I have approximately 1.505” from the end of the crank to the oil slinger. This is the balancer with the ridge on the inside but the balancer slides past that. Not sure what I’m missing here. Any suggestions?
 
Are you using good lubricant ,on the crank snout / balancer and the threads ,in the crankshaft snout threads ? Second: what " harmonic balancer installer " ,are you using ?
Third : are you running a aftermarket crank ,and or aftermarket crank bolt ? Let's start ,there...and be patience. Pictures ,would help ,immensely.
 
Maybe heat the balancer in the oven, then try installing?
 
Maybe heat the balancer in the oven, then try installing?
I would check the crank snout if the crank is new. Then would junk that balancer and buy a fluid damper in a heartbeat ! Fourth one over the yrs. and no problems ! My last one is from 440 source.
 
Have you measured the crank shaft OD where the balancer goes??? Is it consistent or tapered???

What about the ID of the balancer??? is it consistent or tapered????
 
I would check the crank snout if the crank is new. Then would junk that balancer and buy a fluid damper in a heartbeat ! Fourth one over the yrs. and no problems ! My last one is from 440 source.
That (checking crank) should have already been done, and then maybe try the heat, grease etc, at least that's what I'd do if money were an issue, but if it just wont happen then "Sling It" !!:eek:
 
Thanks for the replies guys. The balancer was a little tight so I had a machine shop take .002 off the ID. It should have about .001 to .0015 interference fit now. The crank bolt is ARP, I’m using a copper kote lube on the crank, balancer, and threads. Balancer installer is a homemade deal that’s worked well in the past. I can push the balancer on by hand about halfway and then it’s like it butts up against something. Visually there’s nothing there. I’m thinking about pulling the pan and the front cover to see what’s going on.
 
The ID of the balancer was tapered. Not sure how much taper is left after machining.
 
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Here’s some pics. The balancer slides on by hand. In the last pic you can see the ridge that was factory machined into the balancer and how far past the ridge it slides over the crank snout. Should the timing cover be loose when installing the balancer?
 
Here’s some pics. The balancer slides on by hand. In the last pic you can see the ridge that was factory machined into the balancer and how far past the ridge it slides over the crank snout. Should the timing cover be loose when installing the balancer?

IMO if the damper slips on by hand it's junk already. Here is what ATI recommends.

http://www.atiracing.com/instructions/Super-Damper.pdf
 
Here’s some pics. The balancer slides on by hand. In the last pic you can see the ridge that was factory machined into the balancer and how far past the ridge it slides over the crank snout. Should the timing cover be loose when installing the balancer?
I`m not familiar w/ that timing cover, are u sure that bolt sticking out isn`t hitting the dampener ?
 
It isn’t hitting the bolt sticking out, it’s pretty far away. I’m thinking I’ll pull the oil pan, water pump and front cover and getting to the bottom of this. The front cover is a standard late 70s Chrysler piece.
 
I’ll try removing the key and report back. I’ll also see if I have a stock balancer kicking around and see if that fits.
 
I’ll try removing the key and report back. I’ll also see if I have a stock balancer kicking around and see if that fits.

curious now, what engine is this? I musta missed it .
 
Yer gonna need a new balancer bud....should be a press fit.
Sucks to hear I know. ...but this is how we learn.


Jeff
 
Even before I had .002 taken out of the balancer it would still slide on pretty far. Seems like a tapered fit.
 
Even before I had .002 taken out of the balancer it would still slide on pretty far. Seems like a tapered fit.

did you read and do what was said in post 5 that will tell you everything .
 
I always use the guidelines in the link I posted for damper fit. I mic the crank snout to make sure not tapered or out of round. Once I'm satisfied I'll put the mic on the crank and lock it down. Then I take my mic to the machine shop and they use it to set up their machine. My machine shop uses a Sunnen rod hone to hone dampers. I've never had an issue doing it this way.
 
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