Cheap-ish 360 mods

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He already has been given good advice and ideas IMO. Overall, the basic general hot rod tips given are excellent starts.
 
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lucky you you don't have to pay $4 each for the lifters to be resurfaced.
 
FWIW, you can do a cam change with the engine installed.
Remove the radiator. There is a slight interference with the middle support bracket @ worst.

I pulled that middle support bracket when I did my in car cam swap. I also consumed a decent amount of advil...
:poke:

I didn't manage to find any pics of that bracket removed when I did the cam swap, but it's only a few bolts and is easy enough.
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How you figure no budget? Now you’re bent out of shape because of what one person said? Please man jump off the train at the next station...
Take everything with a grain of salt...I’ve been on forums for a long time and I don’t always follow what someone says lol there’s places to cut corners and places to not.
When you're on this forum long enough you'll probably see me and Rumble Fish 360 go at it every once in awhile but we both know we mean the best in the end so don't get all fried up when we have opposing opinions.
 
By the way what is your total budget? Like $400 or $500? I mean what are we actually working with here? If it's a magnum motor or partial with fuel injection we know at least you have to buy a $200 manifold. You have to at least get a carburetor for it. Likely if it was a fuel injection motor you have to get an electric fuel pump.$40. it'll probably be at least $60 and gaskets and $20 in RTV. So that's 320 bare minimum.
 
From what I've read, the budget is more than a Strict Budget, sounds like it has to run off of pennies.... --- and working with a '91 - LA with roller cam and 308 heads.
  • Roller cam should have the snout for a mechanical fuel pump, and timing cover should have the block-off plate. My '89 did. Just use that cam, leave it in there, buy a mechanical fuel pump - 22 bucks.
  • It will have a TBI intake you'll need to replace. Get a factory cast intake, and the later years with EGR valve are cheap, like 20-30 bucks. you'll need a 18 dollar intake gasket set.
  • Swap oil pan/pickup tube. Can very in price, but should not spend more than 75 bucks total. then you'll need a 17 dollar pan gasket.
  • Timing chain will already be a double roller, just use it.
Your at the bare minimum of about 160 bucks (unless you have a friend to donate the intake, pan&pick up tube), and you'll need a carb.
 
From what I've read, the budget is more than a Strict Budget, sounds like it has to run off of pennies.... --- and working with a '91 - LA with roller cam and 308 heads.
  • Roller cam should have the snout for a mechanical fuel pump, and timing cover should have the block-off plate. My '89 did. Just use that cam, leave it in there, buy a mechanical fuel pump - 22 bucks.
  • It will have a TBI intake you'll need to replace. Get a factory cast intake, and the later years with EGR valve are cheap, like 20-30 bucks. you'll need a 18 dollar intake gasket set.
  • Swap oil pan/pickup tube. Can very in price, but should not spend more than 75 bucks total. then you'll need a 17 dollar pan gasket.
  • Timing chain will already be a double roller, just use it.
Your at the bare minimum of about 160 bucks (unless you have a friend to donate the intake, pan&pick up tube), and you'll need a carb.
Well that's kind of what I was getting at I wasn't sure about the cam thing but at some point so it's going to have to spend some money. And if the cam was a $79 option and with the post being cheap upgrades? Geez what was I supposed to think? everybody knows how much this is going to cost and time and gaskets to do at a later date for a again I can't get my mind off the title cheap upgrade?
At this point I'm not even recommend putting a cam in or ananythin. and that's another thing I know in those years I wasn't sure if a regular manifold could be put on from an LA motor for dirt cheap or one has to be purchased for the Magnum swap but I assume it's not a magnum yet I'm not sure on those intermediate years.
 
Well that's kind of what I was getting at I wasn't sure about the cam thing but at some point so it's going to have to spend some money. And if the cam was a $79 option and with the post being cheap upgrades? Geez what was I supposed to think? everybody knows how much this is going to cost and time and gaskets to do at a later date for a again I can't get my mind off the title cheap upgrade?
At this point I'm not even recommend putting a cam in or ananythin. and that's another thing I know in those years I wasn't sure if a regular manifold could be put on from an LA motor for dirt cheap or one has to be purchased for the Magnum swap but I assume it's not a magnum yet I'm not sure on those intermediate years.
1st year for the Magnum 360 was '93. I agree, you were giving "cheap mods" at the lowest cost just as the title suggested, then were told to "pay for 'em" before you got kicked off the train at the "next station"..... LOL :D
I can't believe I bothered even given my 2 cents, but I saw you invest a few moments so I thought I would.

thanks friend :)
 
That’s what I did. I wasn’t to amused with that particular radiators transmission coolant line location on the passenger side going vertical.
Well of course I ordered mine for a 4-speed so transmission lines weren't an issue. I seen someone complain about the little bit of an angle the bottom hose turns up towards the water pump but I had a flexible hose anyways so didn't have a problem.
Look at this handsome devil last month slipping that cam by the core support....
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That cost more in gaskets, RTV, water wetter, oil, and other things than it did to have the cam reground let alone buy a new cam and lifters. Just sayin.
 
I think you two totally went off the what I was looking for in this thread, by a long shot. I already have the engine, pan and pickup tube, and headers. If we can’t grasp the title cheap-ISH then forget it. I listed options in my first post about what people that would be a decent purchase if they were gunna do the same swap as me then the rest of the thread went off somewhere else. If you’re really wanting to know my budget it’s about $1k for the whole engine swap is what I’m looking at doing and that’s not touching anything on the transmission side.

Side note now. Everything was fine until the bickering started. I didn’t say anyone ideas were terrible and I wouldn’t take into consideration. One person posted one comment and another went off with another. Half of these comments could’ve stayed off.
 
I think you two totally went off the what I was looking for in this thread, by a long shot. I already have the engine, pan and pickup tube, and headers. If we can’t grasp the title cheap-ISH then forget it. I listed options in my first post about what people that would be a decent purchase if they were gunna do the same swap as me then the rest of the thread went off somewhere else. If you’re really wanting to know my budget it’s about $1k for the whole engine swap is what I’m looking at doing and that’s not touching anything on the transmission side.

Side note now. Everything was fine until the bickering started. I didn’t say anyone ideas were terrible and I wouldn’t take into consideration. One person posted one comment and another went off with another. Half of these comments could’ve stayed off.
Yep I got a little hung up on the title sorry.
you'll find just because you post a thread doesn't mean you'll be in total control of it LOL
you said you were a forum veteran you know like you even said take the good stuff and leave the rest it's no big deal.
 
1st post - yep, all of what's below is in your very 1st post.
  • you asked if we'd recommend getting a different intake and carb? I say no, use the TBI :D !
  • then you asked about ignition upgrade? I say yes, there is a used MSD system for sale right here, right now on FABO for 450 bucks, that fit your budget?
  • You said you are not looking to spend "large amounts of cash" - so what's large to you?? you didn't say.
  • you asked if we thought you should do a "cam" instead of intake. Jpar offered a way to do a cam for a whopping 79 bucks, and got railroaded for it :D
  • Last you asked for opinions. Yep, opinions. well, you got 'em.
  • Please re-visit your own 1st post :)
  • this is why I reluctantly ever join a thread like this. We get a pasture of guess work to do because of lack of info or wrong info, then every step in the pasture is "off limits". Good Luck :)
    If we can’t grasp the title cheap-ISH then forget it. I listed options in my first post about what people that would be a decent purchase if they were gunna do the same swap as me then the rest of the thread went off somewhere else.
    /QUOTE]
 
Good advice except for the TQ. There are caveats with a TQ that can be overcome very easy. The biggest issue is getting an old one working right. The less emissions equipment or ports on it the better. There larger and more flexible than an AVS or AFB with more cfm. I personally wouldn’t use a TQ on a square bore with intake.
Good point on the intake

"Inverse roller is a overkill in most applications
Inverse radius roller allows intake to close around 4 degrees earlier to build some more cylinder pressure with an equivalent upper lobe 4 degrees makes a big difference


I don’t know what “BVVC” is but what you don’t know is;

The Pace Performance MSD Knick off is made
By the same manufacturer.
I'm referring to the chrome box knockoffs

Where is the MSD manufacturer located...????
MSD is not always what it used to be- if it ever was
 
1st year for the Magnum 360 was '93. I agree, you were giving "cheap mods" at the lowest cost just as the title suggested, then were told to "pay for 'em" before you got kicked off the train at the "next station"..... LOL :D
I can't believe I bothered even given my 2 cents, but I saw you invest a few moments so I thought I would.

thanks friend :)
This is definitely why I tell people that I don't know to call me! That play stuff doesn't get lost in this texting and voice command communication. No one can see someone laughing or getting mad as they make their comment. You can generally bet I'm damn near on the floor laughing at every moment.
 
Yep I got a little hung up on the title sorry.
you'll find just because you post a thread doesn't mean you'll be in total control of it LOL
you said you were a forum veteran you know like you even said take the good stuff and leave the rest it's no big deal.
I’m no where near upset either, just figured I’d explain myself before this went any further that’s all.
 
1st post - yep, all of what's below is in your very 1st post.
  • you asked if we'd recommend getting a different intake and carb? I say no, use the TBI :D !
  • then you asked about ignition upgrade? I say yes, there is a used MSD system for sale right here, right now on FABO for 450 bucks, that fit your budget?
  • You said you are not looking to spend "large amounts of cash" - so what's large to you?? you didn't say.
  • you asked if we thought you should do a "cam" instead of intake. Jpar offered a way to do a cam for a whopping 79 bucks, and got railroaded for it :D
  • Last you asked for opinions. Yep, opinions. well, you got 'em.
  • Please re-visit your own 1st post :)
  • this is why I reluctantly ever join a thread like this. We get a pasture of guess work to do because of lack of info or wrong info, then every step in the pasture is "off limits". Good Luck :)
I agree with all of that except for when J par said about regrinding a cam. I wasn’t opposed to it but I wasn’t gunna re use the factory springs either regardless and from how he typed he was getting moody so yeah he got railroaded. I could’ve specified an amount to which I did now. Why buy a MSD when the stock is just as good for less money? This thread was going just fine until the bickering started so I’m not at fault lol. I got the info I needed like two pages ago. Why stick with TBI instead of going back to carb setup?
 
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the first thing you should do to this engine when you have the pan off is change the oil pump to an m-72.-melling oil pump.
The factory oil pump pressure cutoff/bypass is too low in my opinion@40psi..you want 60-70psi
Second thing you want to do is change all the freeze plugs, brass is good.
Timing chain and decent 260 degree cam would be a great idea.
Get a good set of plug wires, like Taylor spiro pro- 500 ohm resistance or msd-50 ohms resistance. Stock style -1400+ resistance...
 
the first thing you should do to this engine when you have the pan off is change the oil pump to an m-72.-melling oil pump.
The factory oil pump pressure cutoff/bypass is too low in my opinion@40psi..you want 60-70psi
Second thing you want to do is change all the freeze plugs, brass is good.
Timing chain and decent 260 degree cam would be a great idea.
Get a good set of plug wires, like Taylor spiro pro- 500 ohm resistance or msd-50 ohms resistance. Stock style -1400+ resistance...
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Probably goes without saying that while you have those freeze plugs out flush the crap out of those water passages. You'd be surprised how much garbage is inside that block.
 
good point replace the so called freeze plugs if they are steal replacing the ones behind the trans is a real pain later
check the springs in any case- if they are way out of spec or all over the place replace them cam or no cam there are good inexpensive springs for mild cams
new viton stem seals in any case- are you doing a valve job?
I sorta agree in keeping the TBI if you are thinking of making major induction changes later unless you can score a good swap meet manifold and carb and air cleaner and...
good luck with that
Who wants to fool with a carb in North Dakota in the winter?
you can inspect the timing chain nylon gear gotta go if double roller and not to much slop you are ok
the stock cam actually works pretty good with stock gears and converter or stick and stock gears
you can go to more lift but even going to a "Sausage" 210 degree regrind suggests lower gears and an HP converter -BTW there are more modern regrinds
Stock 360 ignition pre TBI will work fine remember what I said about offshore counterfeit chrome, gold and other MP boxes
next thing is to report the condition of the motor- we can all start over from there
 
good point replace the so called freeze plugs if they are steal replacing the ones behind the trans is a real pain later
check the springs in any case- if they are way out of spec or all over the place replace them cam or no cam there are good inexpensive springs for mild cams
new viton stem seals in any case- are you doing a valve job?
I sorta agree in keeping the TBI if you are thinking of making major induction changes later unless you can score a good swap meet manifold and carb and air cleaner and...
good luck with that
Who wants to fool with a carb in North Dakota in the winter?
you can inspect the timing chain nylon gear gotta go if double roller and not to much slop you are ok
the stock cam actually works pretty good with stock gears and converter or stick and stock gears
you can go to more lift but even going to a "Sausage" 210 degree regrind suggests lower gears and an HP converter -BTW there are more modern regrinds
Stock 360 ignition pre TBI will work fine remember what I said about offshore counterfeit chrome, gold and other MP boxes
next thing is to report the condition of the motor- we can all start over from there
I don’t plan on doing anything with the heads until I pull them when I’m gunna do the turbo unless it needs the heads pulled for any other repairs. The engine still starts and runs fine in the truck so condition of the engine isn’t a big concern.
The car won’t be driven in the winter so I don’t need to worry about cold weather and carbs. I figured going to a carb setup would be a better performance choice, I’m not familiar with older TBI setups.
Bottom line now is I’ve made up my mind and just gunna get the engine up to spec with stuff and if I need to mod more after that then I’ll address that later. If I do find a decent carb and intake setup for sale I’ll buy it and go that route. The only thing I’m curious about now is what good electric fuel pump I should get.
 
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