Originalowner73 340duster
Well-Known Member
After talking with a long time freind ...I think I'm ready to admit I think it had to jump the chain to get timing that off
I did the test I had 1.25socket on end of crank..and rotor/ reluctor moved in sync...what else could make timing so far off..with light I tried correcting with moving distributor and was able to get better revs but still way under power..just don't know what else could make timing so off..does ignition module adjust timing? Could harmonic balancer moved and that make a difference...don't know what else . Everything else checking fine multiple times..the ballist was weird it gave good reading but on very close inspection had some defective issues on back . Gave me my strong spark back..I gave you the formula to test mechanical tdc for any possibility of the timing chain jumping or the harmonic balancer slipping. This was post #7 on Sunday. I didn't see any postings that you performed the test. ?? It would confirm immediately timing chain jump. Any reason for doing all kinds of other things instead?
I rotated both directions but only used a mark on screwdriver to see it went to same spot both ways..I know not exact but shouldn't that be enough to see if it was off?? If not do I have to make the tool??Did you us a piston stop ? Or were you just rotating it the same direction and check the mark each rotation ? It will never change on a single overhead cam engine. It will change on a double overhead cam engine with a belt. They are checked differently.
They have one at AutoZone for 12 bucks will pick one up tomorrow and get exactly we're I'm at...do you happen to have the depth I need? Tool looks adjustable...Follow the above procedure and get a tool or make one. Just need an old sparkplug. If you make one, you break out the center porcelain and install or weld a bolt to it. It doesn't have to look pretty or buy one from AutoZone or who ever is closest to you.
Best Top Dead Center Stop Tool Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVs
Ok ..how off is acceptable..or should both be exactly on line..and if it is off than it's the jumping issues I guessDoesn't matter as you are going to rotate the engine until it contacts the piston and stops. Then rotate the opposite direction until it stops. The distance half way between those 2 points will be exactly top dead center.
Yes that was the difference from line I made from tool making tdc mark to balance tdc line mark than spun other way and marked it then measured both lines . Folded paper and it was few hairs off from tdc mark..so I guess it was on time..but should distributor be at 1 and than 5 when I rotated??One way or both ways ?
Sorry I miss wrote..I measured rotated both ways than folded the paper and was only a hair off..so it must be on time ..but distributor was on 1 to start than one rotation and it was by 5 is that correct ..I cant find the ratio for crank to distributor turns??I would say right at an 1/8 th off
Ok so everything seems mechanical y good than..what else could I chk..I hate to rip apart for nothing especially since I just did intake gasket not long ago....damnnnnñnnYou are kidding ? The camshaft turns at 1/2 the speed of the crank shaft. Firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Chrysler Corporation Engine Firing Order Guide
As you can see it can either be #1 or Between #5 & #6 with each rotation of the crank. 180 Degrees which is 1/2 of a circle 360 degrees. The rotor should line up #1 every 2 rotations of the crankshaft. To eliminate any doubt. Just remove the timing cover and start from scratch. Will probably take less time and will verify the mechanicals without any doubts.