Need some turn signal school

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There are two wires going to the column for power, one from the brake light switch and one from the signal blinker.
Under normal conditions (no turn) the connection of the brake light power is connected to both rear turn lights.
When you turn on the turn indicator you disengage the brake power from that side and connect the blinker power to both the turn lights on that side.

The turn signal switch is a complicated animal.


Alan
it seems like I don't have no power up there anywhere except for like I was saying that horn. Also I haven't got into the actual wires I'm just tested up at the top. But that's interesting that I have brakes and now no signal so here we go...
 
Remove the turn signal blinker and put a jumper in there, key must be on to test.

You should now have a constant power at the column, if not then the problem is down stream.


Alan
 
Remove the turn signal blinker and put a jumper in there, key must be on to test.

You should now have a constant power at the column, if not then the problem is down stream.


Alan
okay I'm in there now and I'm finding some power at the pink wire with the blinker switch on. Right now I just checked the trunk area and it looks good. I put a light bul in the trunk light and it came on. it flickered when I played with the wires which wasn't good but also once it was on the button for the trunk to shut it off was not working I couldn't get it to shut off without pulling the balb. I'm sure that's its own separate problem. But what I'm getting at back there was making sure the wires look good and they do. Also I had in my mind some connections going back to the back could be given problem but probably not because again the brake lights and regular lights both work so the two ways are definitely connected. I still feel my problem is under the dash. I was thinking now to take my voltmeter and put one lead on the power and poke around?
 
One more little tidbit I never get anything to ever light up in the dashboard for any reason whatsoever.
 
So I know the Flasher is getting power because when I have the ignition on the Flasher will cut the power. So if I unplug the Flasher there's no power to the red wire in the blinker control?
 
So I know the Flasher is getting power because when I have the ignition on the Flasher will cut the power. So if I unplug the Flasher there's no power to the red wire in the blinker control?
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Long ago, I replaced the turn signal switch in my 68 Dodge truck.
Put everything back together and only had brake lights. Long story short the contact rod that jumps across the contacts had to be slightly bent to make contact when switching to turn.
 
Okay a little more information here. At the Flasher itself I have a strong electrical at all times going to the Flasher seemingly no matter what position the key is in. And when I check with my check light there's a strong signal at the incoming wire and a weak signal at the outgoing wire? I can't believe this is going to end up being a flasher cuz I swear that's a thing that I change first. And it says Made in America on the outside of it.
 
Well maybe I'll try another flasher damn it it's only 10 bucks. This time I had an old flasher I tried and it went from power to no power on the old flasher and power 2-week power on the newer flasher that I thought I replaced.a
 
As I go to think about all my electrical catastrophes from the beginning remember the amp meter is bypassed as in I just took those two big wires and connect them together. I'm wondering if that made it so the dash doesn't get any power at all?
 
Brake lights go through the turn signal switch. Keep this in mind.
There are 2 flashers, other one is hazards(constant power)
Also feed through signal switch.
 
Brake lights go through the turn signal switch. Keep this in mind.
There are 2 flashers, other one is hazards(constant power)
Also feed through signal switch.
Doesn't the hazard flasher have like three wires on it or something? I just went down and got another flasher and it did the same thing as the replacement one. Good strong power at one side and then when plugged in had kind of weak power coming out of the other? I'll go take some pictures.
 
Doesn't the hazard flasher have like three wires on it or something? I just went down and got another flasher and it did the same thing as the replacement one. Good strong power at one side and then when plugged in had kind of weak power coming out of the other? I'll go take some pictures.
Three wire-one is indicator/needs proper load to work.
I do a lot of electrical stuff, its hard for me to wrap my head around it too.
First go round with signals was wiring a universal switch into a M-37 for a buddy.

The front and rear signals are isolated from each other for brake light function. Just to make it even more confusing. A good test light is the best. Turn off the meter and put it back in the toolbox.
 
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Three wire-one is indicator/needs proper load to work.
I do a lot of electrical stuff, its hard for me to wrap my head around it too.
First go round with signals was wiring a universal switch into a M-37 for a buddy.

The front and rear signals are isolated from each other for brake light function. Just to make it even more confusing. A good test light is the best. Turn off the meter and put it back in the toolbox.
Alright let's start working on that one!
 
I believe it's the horn relay LOL when I use my test light it made the horn honk when I touched one of the wires. And then it let the light up on that one and lit the light upon another one and no light on another one. All these things with switch off.
 
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BREAKING NEWS! I HAVE EMERGENCY FLASHERS ALL THE WAY AROUND FOR THE FIRST TIME SINCE I'VE OWNED THE CAR 5 YEARS! I FEEL VICTORY AROUND THE CORNER!!!LOL
 
Run a hot 12V jumper to the red wire on the column for the signal switch and see if that works. If so then at least you know your wiring for the switch and lights is good. Its just a matter of where the break is then.
 
I found out in my parts bin what looks like maybe the original blinker clicker mechanism. I brought it in and tried it and the flashers worked opposite? Well I could see the backwards wiring between the two different Clickers. But still no turn signal when the turn signal clicker is clicked? Now I'm not suspecting it being the clicker itself.
 
Run a hot 12V jumper to the red wire on the column for the signal switch and see if that works. If so then at least you know your wiring for the switch and lights is good. Its just a matter of where the break is then.
With the four way flashers working and the brake lights working this should be pretty well isolated now.
 
And here's another question is the Flasher the Flasher for all flashing? Like for each side and for both sides?
 
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