360 magnum cam choice

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7dart0

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my engine is a 2001 360 magnum block stock bottom end, hughes EQ heads with 2.02 intake valves,TTI step headers, edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake, 750 proform mech. secondary. cam is crate 360 cam supposedly I think its smaller. stops pulling around 5800.
A904 with 2800 stall with forward manual valvebody, 8.75 w/4:10 suregrip
I've gone 12.40 @ 110 in the 1/4 mile with this setup

lookin at Oregon cam #1357 grind
230/236@.050
112 lobe separation
.515/.515 w/1.6rockers

this custom one from a member
bullet cam
237/245@.050
108 lobe separation
.550/.550 w/1.6 rockers
 
I would go with the custom bullet cam. It has a lot more duration, and particularly more overlap duration. You may need more stall to be happy. Do the valvetrain right, and the motor will pull to over 6,000 easily, and with the proper valvetrain parts will pull to 6500 and should make max power about 6,000. I have a very similar cam, at least duration wise, with 235/249/107 duration and lsa. It made peak hp at 5700. My motor is a 408, but you can look up the magnum build in HotRod magazine for an idea of the power curve for your size motor. Depending on your compression, the hp could be lower than the HR build.
 
thanks. I used a .028 felpro head gasket. heads are 62cc chambers.
 
Both times I've had my cam ground I've had done at Oregon cam grinding after I talk with Ken. Have you talked to Ken at Oregon cam grinding he's very easy to talk to? Or did you just look up the cam profile? when I wanted a cam like the one you talking about with long durations and high lift he gave it to me and it maxed out the motor and ran great. 11-4 at a hundred and nineteen with my Stroker. Which if I could 60 foot the car it should have done high tents easily. This last summer I called him and said I want to be able to cruise to the cruise- ins with my wife and I want the car to idle a bit and I wanted to have that are characteristics but still not lose all its power. And like magic the cam recommend by Ken is making my car perform exactly the way I want it as a matter of fact I hope it stops raining today so I can go for a drive. nice guy too bad you live so far away you could walk up and talk to him and look over that list of different cams with him. really nice personable guy who has probably drag raced with most of the cam profiles he provides. My -2
 
does not your block have the provisions for HR
are you looking for solid or Hyd?
Bullet has MOPAR masters every 2 degrees and are easy to talk with
I do not know Ken and how he obtains/ makes his masters
are they universal or Mopar specials
He does have a good reputation
that's a big difference in timing between those two cams with the big difference in lca
do you drive this on the street?
 
does not your block have the provisions for HR
are you looking for solid or Hyd?
Bullet has MOPAR masters every 2 degrees and are easy to talk with
I do not know Ken and how he obtains/ makes his masters
are they universal or Mopar specials
He does have a good reputation
that's a big difference in timing between those two cams with the big difference in lca
do you drive this on the street?
Honestly I don't know where it gets his master's. All I can say is I've had good results. But in my personal opinion I only see both of them regrinding any spec they wanted to in the world. Out of any cam. I can't imagine calling Ken with any spec I wanted and him not just saying, okay. Maybe Bullet has an owner you can talk to or maybe that's a big company with people answering the phones? I know with Ken you will personally talk to Ken who grinds these cams and races the cams and probably have driven in cars with most of his grinds. I mean I have no objections to driving up there with my car right now and letting him feel difference between the old cam and the new cam. But after all these years I'm sure he knows exactly what it's going to do. More of my-2
 
my engine is a 2001 360 magnum block stock bottom end, hughes EQ heads with 2.02 intake valves,TTI step headers, edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake, 750 proform mech. secondary. cam is crate 360 cam supposedly I think its smaller. stops pulling around 5800.
A904 with 2800 stall with forward manual valvebody, 8.75 w/4:10 suregrip
I've gone 12.40 @ 110 in the 1/4 mile with this setup

lookin at Oregon cam #1357 grind
230/236@.050
112 lobe separation
.515/.515 w/1.6rockers

this custom one from a member
bullet cam
237/245@.050
108 lobe separation
.550/.550 w/1.6 rockers
Actually, like the Oregon grind ,with 1.5 rockers ...Valve train stability, is more important than that extra .010 "extra lift " ,by a long shot.
 
I do run this car in the street on nice days. Its a hydraulic roller cam motor with the factory 1.6 rocker ratio.
I have not spoken with anyone at the cam companies.
 
how big of a cam can the stock pistons handle without ptv clearance trouble? I know that the 5.9 Mag has got some little dish in the piston, but no real valve reliefs.

Michael
 
how big of a cam can the stock pistons handle without ptv clearance trouble? I know that the 5.9 Mag has got some little dish in the piston, but no real valve reliefs.

Michael
Piston are usually ".050 -060 " ,in the hole. Valve train is limited to ".510 - .520 depending on valve train decision. To be honest, I don't see a need beyond "480-490 lift " unless the heads flow more than 260 ...270 ,on the intake side....
 
Retainer to guide clearance is the issue on Magnum engines with factory heads. EQ heads are designed as replacements so I suspect that will be the case with EQs as well, although I have not measured them yet.
If the guides on 7dart0's EQ heads were not cut down for more lift potential before the engine was built, that needs to be measured before selecting a cam.
 
7dart0 the cam i suggested, will make Excelent power, but will have valve to piston problems and possibly valve guide clearace problems as well. I must have had brain freeze and plain overlooked the part about the stock bottom end.
 
I had the similar combo but less gear, ran slower ET but same MPH and pulled to 6100. I had a Hughes cam and valvesprings.

157DB609-264F-461D-8264-13148B103210.jpeg
 
Thanks for the info. Dusted that seems like a good cam. I gather if I keep it under 550 lift I should be ok. I'm just trying to absorb as much info as I can so I dont have do it twice. Lol
 
I obviously missed the MAGNUM in the thread title
we are talking HR here - right
Mike Jones has the best roller profiles- inverse radius for more early lift and proven in the Indy motors
 
i have a .566 lift cam from hughes in my magnum 360 with a stock bottom end and heads as well as stock valvetrain except springs obviously got them from hughes as well.
 
my engine is a 2001 360 magnum block stock bottom end, hughes EQ heads with 2.02 intake valves,TTI step headers, edelbrock performer rpm air gap intake, 750 proform mech. secondary. cam is crate 360 cam supposedly I think its smaller. stops pulling around 5800.
A904 with 2800 stall with forward manual valvebody, 8.75 w/4:10 suregrip
I've gone 12.40 @ 110 in the 1/4 mile with this setup

lookin at Oregon cam #1357 grind
230/236@.050
112 lobe separation
.515/.515 w/1.6rockers

this custom one from a member
bullet cam
237/245@.050
108 lobe separation
.550/.550 w/1.6 rockers

Between these two, I'd go bullet if I still had pressure enough left for to have fun as a streeter. But the thing is with a roller, that 237@.050 might translate to 290/300/108/79overlap. and in at 104 say would get you an Ica of 69* maybe. And that in a 9.5 Magnum equates to just 146psi, so not real snappy at typical street rpms. Thank goodness for the 4.10s and 2800TC.

But guess what, the Oregon 230* could have the exact same 69* Ica so makes the same pressure, but with a loss of 16* of overlap, will definitely make less power at the track. 283/291/112/63overlap

But if you got the Oregon 230 ground on a 108, you would be able to reset the Ica to 66* and might get 151psi, with some overlap back; 283/291/108/71overlap.and a lil more street friendly, at the expense of ultimate power, as compared to the Bullet 237.
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In my street 367,I ran the Mopar 292/292/108/76overlap for one summer at 11.3Scr/about 185psi. With just a 9.44 starter gear and a manual trans, I was only too glad to get rid if it. I would entertain using it now tho with my more 292-friendly gears.
I modeled with clearance ramps of 53 and 55 degrees, guesses to be sure.
and elevation at Sea-level.
 
It sounds like the engine runs pretty good for the known parts you have. If'n it were me, I would leave the engine alone for now. At 110 mph you should be running about 3 tenths faster than you are. Do you have slicks on this? 2800 stall ain't much. I would throw more converter at it. Converter change and a little fine tuning this and that could potentially put you in the 11.90 range. Cam change alone is not likely to get you there, especially since you are not sure what cam is in it now. A cam swap might get you zilch.
 
Piston are usually ".050 -060 " ,in the hole. Valve train is limited to ".510 - .520 depending on valve train decision. To be honest, I don't see a need beyond "480-490 lift " unless the heads flow more than 260 ...270 ,on the intake side....


"Generally speaking" I like to shoot for .030-.050 more lift over peak flow "or once the gain is less than 8cfm" for maximum type efforts.
 
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It sounds like the engine runs pretty good for the known parts you have. If'n it were me, I would leave the engine alone for now. At 110 mph you should be running about 3 tenths faster than you are. Do you have slicks on this? 2800 stall ain't much. I would throw more converter at it. Converter change and a little fine tuning this and that could potentially put you in the 11.90 range. Cam change alone is not likely to get you there, especially since you are not sure what cam is in it now. A cam swap might get you zilch.


Yes I run a 26x8.5 slick.
 
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