833 OD linkage orientation.

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Evan Dutch

Evan Dutch

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Hey
I’m putting the 833 OD back in and I think I have the linkage in the right position but I’m not sure which one should be flipped. Does anyone have a pic they can share? Oh, and is there a spring that goes from the shift fork to the bellhousing (like a return spring for the clutch fork)?

Thanks.
 
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No pic, but closest one to the clutch is the one that is flipped.
 
I actually found a pic, of an OD I rebuilt.
Notice the 3-4 rod I made longer, out of a normal 4-speed linkage.

1000215e.jpg
 
It is easy to remember if you know how it works. The OD gear is the "old" 3rd gear, so when you shift the lever 1-2-3-4, the transmission is actually shifting 1-2-4-3. The OD shifter 3rd gear postion is the "box" old 4th or straight through "gear."
 
What would I do about the shifting? The vehicle doesn’t run, but the 1-2 shift feels fine, the 3-4 shift seems very stiff and the shifter doesn’t have as much travel as the 1-2 shift.
 
How long has the trans sat?
I sold a standard 833 A body trans a while back, the buyer wanted to look inside, no problem pulled the shift cover off.
the tops of the gears had surface rust on them from sitting for a long time.
The trans would not shift correctly, he bought it, and texed me a couple days later, said he drained the fluid, soaked the trans in diesal fuel, and it turned over fine, and shifted.
You may have a corrosion issue.
 
I bet more likely the linkage. Does the shifter/ linkage belong with the gearbox? Maybe the non OD and OD 3-4 shift levers are different, AKA longer, shorter, or positioned in such a way as to optimize lever ration, etc What happens if you turn the lever around so the opposite side is s outboard?
 
sireland67 said:
How long has the trans sat?
I sold a standard 833 A body trans a while back, the buyer wanted to look inside, no problem pulled the shift cover off.
the tops of the gears had surface rust on them from sitting for a long time.
The trans would not shift correctly, he bought it, and texed me a couple days later, said he drained the fluid, soaked the trans in diesal fuel, and it turned over fine, and shifted.
You may have a corrosion issue.
Click to expand...
I bought it earlier this year and it shifted ok before I pulled it to put a new motor in. Could the linkage be out of adjustment somehow?
 
67Dart273 said:
I bet more likely the linkage. Does the shifter/ linkage belong with the gearbox? Maybe the non OD and OD 3-4 shift levers are different, AKA longer, shorter, or positioned in such a way as to optimize lever ration, etc What happens if you turn the lever around so the opposite side is s outboard?
Click to expand...
It’s the factory linkage that came on the trans. I can’t remember how the linkage was oriented when I took it off. I might have to flip it back around and try it.
 
Evan Dutch said:
I bought it earlier this year and it shifted ok before I pulled it to put a new motor in. Could the linkage be out of adjustment somehow?
Click to expand...

Here's a picture off the net. Looks (to me) like it's in neutral. Note the hole where the neutral gate alignment pin fits directly above the 3-4 shift rod swivel on the shifter.....…….
upload_2018-10-10_7-55-32.png

Hard shifting could be as simple as a trans lube issue or a rusty grit caked up misaligned shifter.
I think I would try to isolate the issue. Find neutral for all three with all the rods off the shift tabs. Note the force it takes to shift in and out of all the forward speeds one at a time. The forward speeds should be comparable to each other. Reset all into neutral, then preform the shifter alignment using the neutral gate pin or plate for the shifter. Don't forget to clean and lube the shift mechanism as well.
 
Daves69 said:
Here's a picture off the net. Looks (to me) like it's in neutral. Note the hole where the neutral gate alignment pin fits directly above the 3-4 shift rod swivel on the shifter.....…….
View attachment 1715233617
Hard shifting could be as simple as a trans lube issue or a rusty grit caked up misaligned shifter.
I think I would try to isolate the issue. Find neutral for all three with all the rods off the shift tabs. Note the force it takes to shift in and out of all the forward speeds one at a time. The forward speeds should be comparable to each other. Reset all into neutral, then preform the shifter alignment using the neutral gate pin or plate for the shifter. Don't forget to clean and lube the shift mechanism as well.
Click to expand...
Is that neutral gate pin specific or could I use something similar to it that’ll work?
 
Once the rods are off of the shift tabs and the pin is in the shifter mechanism to align it, and the shift tabs in neutral I then reattached the rods to the appropriate shift tabs?
 
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Note the force it takes to shift in and out of all the forward speeds one at a time. The forward speeds should be comparable to each other.

How does it feel? All the same?

If yes, reset all into neutral then adjust rod lengths as necessary to slip them in.
 
I’ll do that this weekend. We’ll see how it turns out. I reconnect the rods to the tabs with the nuetral alignment pin still in the shifter correct?
 
Yes, put the trans in neutral, pin in shifter.
After you pull the pin (drill bit) out, you will have to adjust the rods slightly for shifter slop.
 
If the trans is in the car you will have to cut the drill bit down, just be aware of that.
 
I think there was enough room in the last truck I had for it to slip in.
I have had two truck with that trans, the shifter was basically junk in both of them, keep that in mind.
 
Sloppy shift mechanism, just plain wore out.
 
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