67 383 spark plugs/what ta use?

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383FormulaS67

383FormulaS67

Bob
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.060 over motor stock heads barn find beauty. Has an Accel dual point model 30302 w/Champion J14Y plugs in it, car starts and runs daily, distributor cap is good, but rotor and points worn bad. (Going into winter storage) So I'm putting a Pertronix points eliminator module in it, w/Pertronix coil. Any Spark plug does and dont? I've read Champion J10Y may have been stock, but curious what not to use??? The J14Y are clean over all.
20180710_150309.jpg
 
Whatever the book says for that particular engine.
 
if it runs good and clean, why not stick with j14 . I believe that's the plug the 383 2bbl called for.
 
Try some E3 s. I actually put a pertronix and E3s in my little /6 and uped the performance and MPG.
 
Run the plug that would come stock in that engine but for ease of availability and quality I'd switch to NGK.
 
67 383 in an A body was a non HP engine ...just your average compression ETC motor cam specs and all...dont try and get fancy it doesn't take much to keep her running If its still stock that is and I assume it is being a sweet barn find why would you tear into it?
 
marksmopar1 said:
67 383 in an A body was a non HP engine ...just your average compression ETC motor cam specs and all...dont try and get fancy it doesn't take much to keep her running If its still stock that is and I assume it is being a sweet barn find why would you tear into it?
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Motor is .60 per the seller, appears it has 20m since rebuild. I don't like what I see with head gaskets/appears dirty on side of block..etc.., My Honda Accord blows the doors off this car.. she drives like a big fat slumbering slug... I want: cam, Intake, headers, shift kit. Hot Rod magazine has a good article on stock 67 383 mods that take it to 400 hp. + w/ cam,headers,carb, intake, w/906 heads. Don't want to over kill, just want fun. Interesting fact about 383 I copy and pasted below:
Mopars have a tappet diameter of .904 inches, while Fords measure .875 inches, and Chevys .842 inches. Why is this significant? The larger tappet raises the limit on the possible cam velocity in a flat tappet cam. This allows the cam designer to develop more aggressive profiles, giving a faster rate of lift. More lift means more open area at the valve, and typically more power than a lower lift cam of the same duration. Most cam profiles are simply designed to be compatible with .842-inch tappets, since it is the lowest common denominator, and will work with that tappet size or larger.
 
fishmens67 said:
if it runs good and clean, why not stick with j14 . I believe that's the plug the 383 2bbl called for.
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I most likely will. Just checking, before I buy new ones and the jury is out on what I picked...I had a 340 duster and it ate plugs like crazy 30 years ago, just a little gun shy with the 383...thanks
 
Bob,,,ya I understand you...I would want more as well if a Honda is giving me fits. It wont take much to improve that engine. The heads are the worst small regular valves and poor flow. A set of closed chamber heads would raise the compression and get it up and moving I would think. Nice car, I also have a 383-S automatic...tossed a 440 in it and tucked the 383 under the bench...just easier and now its fun, even put the original exhaust manifolds away for a set of Schumakers Tri-Y's 440 source heads, six pack pistons aluminum water pump and intake all painted factory engine color...nothing super fancy but its fun now :)
 
roccodart440 said:
Run the plug that would come stock in that engine but for ease of availability and quality I'd switch to NGK.
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There's a better reason than that. Most spark plug have a "range" of resistance listed in the catalog. All the NGK plugs have a very specific number. I was looking for plugs for this 396 I have just built. The AC Delco plugs which were OE for that engine list a resistance range from between 5000-12000 OHMS. The NGK lists theirs as 6000.

SO I started looking and every NGK number has a specific resistance rating instead of a range.
 
marksmopar1 said:
Bob,,,ya I understand you...I would want more as well if a Honda is giving me fits. It wont take much to improve that engine. The heads are the worst small regular valves and poor flow. A set of closed chamber heads would raise the compression and get it up and moving I would think. Nice car, I also have a 383-S automatic...tossed a 440 in it and tucked the 383 under the bench...just easier and now its fun, even put the original exhaust manifolds away for a set of Schumakers Tri-Y's 440 source heads, six pack pistons aluminum water pump and intake all painted factory engine color...nothing super fancy but its fun now :)
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I've thought about that too, save the original motor, and build a block to beat the **** out of...I've read the 400 big block is a good fit, due to its weight and performance..tbd.
 
383FormulaS67 said:
I've thought about that too, save the original motor, and build a block to beat the **** out of...I've read the 400 big block is a good fit, due to its weight and performance..tbd.
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An RB fits fine.

Weight is a myth that still gets perpetuated. Look at the weight difference between a 400 and a 440.
 
14's seem way too hot to me. Seems to me I used to run 11's and 12's
 
I run 12’s in my 69/383. 10’s are hard to find anymore and the Pertronix III is keeping them happy!
 
Jesus Chrysler said:
What have you done to your accord that makes your BB A body seem like a dog?
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Or the reverse? LOL.
First thing would be to tune it.
If its a stock rebuild with overboring, you can start with the stock specs and tweak from there. Might need to experiment with timing a bit since that's obviously not stock.
If you can't find a decent set of points and condensor, contact FABO member Halifaxhop.
marksmopar1 said:
67 383 in an A body was a non HP engine
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Nonsense. It was one of the two factory high performance engine options for Barracuda
CCI05152011_00015%20(983x1280).jpg

http://www.hamtramck-historical.com...ataBook/1967/CCI05152011_00015 (983x1280).jpg
 
Mattax said:
Or the reverse? LOL.
First thing would be to tune it.
If its a stock rebuild with overboring, you can start with the stock specs and tweak from there. Might need to experiment with timing a bit since that's obviously not stock.
If you can't find a decent set of points and condensor, contact FABO member Halifaxhop.

Nonsense. It was one of the two factory high performance engine options for Barracuda
View attachment 1715236126
http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/dealerships/DealershipDataBook/1967/CCI05152011_00015 (983x1280).jpg
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That's kinda what I was thinking. When i first got my 67 383 running after it had sat for 15 years I drove it around the block and was underwhelmed. First thing I did was buy a timing light and set it to 12* and after that it puts you back in your seat and will spin the dinky tires in 2nd gear with ease.
 
J-11Y for standard. Ya' went to the J-14Y if you were oil fouling the colder plug.
J-10Y and colder were more for weekend at the strip.
 
Get platinum plugs, longer between changes. I'd get the heat range for the HP 383. New cap, rotor and Taylor Spiro Pro Wires while you are at it.
 
marksmopar1 said:
Bob,,,ya I understand you...I would want more as well if a Honda is giving me fits. It wont take much to improve that engine. The heads are the worst small regular valves and poor flow. A set of closed chamber heads would raise the compression and get it up and moving I would think. Nice car, I also have a 383-S automatic...tossed a 440 in it and tucked the 383 under the bench...just easier and now its fun, even put the original exhaust manifolds away for a set of Schumakers Tri-Y's 440 source heads, six pack pistons aluminum water pump and intake all painted factory engine color...nothing super fancy but its fun now :)
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You mentioned a set of Closed Chamber Heads would perk up the 383, any details/suggestions? A friend of mine has smog motor 440 heads on his 383, and races w/pump fuel. I like that idea, but don't know if Smog 440 motor Heads are Closed Chamber..TBD. And, what to look for??
 
is the 383 in your 67 a factory 383, if it is, then the engine came with close chamber heads
 
fishmens67 said:
is the 383 in your 67 a factory 383, if it is, then the engine came with close chamber heads
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I have not touched the motor yet, but it's a factory 383 car, fender tag, block casting numbers etc. I assume, it has 904 heads....
 
I would say if it is a 1967 factory 383 car then it came with 516 heads that had the smaller intake and exhaust valves. Moving to the 915 closed chambered heads on the 67 hi-po 440 cars would be a good step up. Even better would be to put oversized intake and exhaust valves I think approx 2.18 and 1.81 not sure about exact size. I think factory was 2.08 intake and 1.74 exhaust. Also a big carb and better intake in combination will really wake the motor up. Any body else care to chime in.
 
LovetheA's said:
I would say if it is a 1967 factory 383 car then it came with 516 heads that had the smaller intake and exhaust valves. Moving to the 915 closed chambered heads on the 67 hi-po 440 cars would be a good step up. Even better would be to put oversized intake and exhaust valves I think approx 2.18 and 1.81 not sure about exact size. I think factory was 2.08 intake and 1.74 exhaust. Also a big carb and better intake in combination will really wake the motor up. Any body else care to chime in.
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Thanks, I agree with your direction, I do not want to over kill, just get the 383 bottom end what it needs. My quest is to source 915 heads, and learn all the info I can asap. I've built 327, 289, 340, & 454. The Plymouth 383 is a new challenge for me, and I want to do it justice. I want the car to be proud of the badge on the fender.
 
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