How do you replace a fusible link?
- Thread starter Dakota Smith
- Start date
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You probably won't find one just like it. You'll have to make your own splice.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
Can I just cut the rubber piece off and splice them all three together or does the rubber piece have to be where they come together?
You can pitch the rubber piece in the trash, but you probably should replace the fusible link wire.
Yeah that rubber was probably a plug maybe? Fusible links at parts store.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
Both fusible link wires are 18 on one side and 14 on the other. Do I have to get the same gauge for the replacement?
pishta
I know I'm right....
splice in this blade fuse holder.....
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
Would it be okay to splice that in, even though the wires will be different gauges on each side?
I would. The inline fuse pishta posted is acceptable too. I would stick with the same gauge wire in either case.
Not in my opinion, no. @67Dart273 That's Del. Hes an electronics legend genius. Maybe he will chime in. He probably knows something I don't for sho and for certain. lol
Assuming the fusible wire is in good shape you should be able to cut the rubber off and splice the wires together. I would be sure to use a high amp splice preferable same type as OE. If when you remove the black rubber all the strands of wire are still attached to each other as the OE made it you could create a mold and over mold the OE splice area with appropriate black material. I think Eastwood sells such.
Keep in mind that if you shorten the fusible link wire you are changing its characteristics. My best guess 1/4 to 3/8 of in inch probably negligible.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
I'm not sure where to find a fusible link wire that is both 18 and 14 gauge though. The ones I see online are all the same gauge on each side.
I don't believe the large single wire is a fusible link. I could be wrong but I don't think it is. So, All you would need to do would be to splice the two smaller wires to the large wire. I believe that is acceptable since you are going from one large lead to two smaller ones.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
The single wire is connected to two wires that have a fusible link and each of them have two different gauge wires on each side of the fusible link. Sorry if I made that confusing earlier.
I see. I still think it is acceptable. You are feeding off one large wire into two smaller ones. See if Dell chimes in. He'll let us know if I am full of **** or not. LOL
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I agree with this method. In my 85 ram I had a fuseable link blow and I spliced in one of those blade fuses and never had no more trouble with it.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
Doing that would be the easiest thing to do, I’ll try it if no one else objects to it.
Arron tate
T B L
Hello All,
Try here
Fusible Link Wire from Allied Wire, Distributor of Electrical Wire
Happy Mopar
Arron
Try here
Fusible Link Wire from Allied Wire, Distributor of Electrical Wire
Happy Mopar
Arron
vntned
Well-Known Member
I just did this with my GLH-Turbo. Replaces all the fusible links with a fuse panel. Should make life easier in the future.
Does anyone have info about if length makes a difference? ( I looked online and did not find any info but I did not look too deeply) I suspect that it does as the heat from the short would be spread over a larger surface area and might lengthen the time it takes the fusible wire to melt and separate.
vntned
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the length makes a difference. You need to use the same gauge link at the same length.
Dakota Smith
1976 340 Feather Duster
There’s only two fusible link wires under the hood, so this would probably be too bulky. It’s interesting though.
'Cuda_ragtop
Woulda, Shoulda, 'Cuda!
Generally not a good idea to use a fuse where a fusible link was located. That would make sense only if completely rewiring with a fusebox on the engine bay side. Even then, a fusible link on the alternator supply is still generally better. That way the alternator can supply full current for short peripods of time while still being protect from short.
Actually, based on the photo in your earlier thread and the FSM diagram, there should be 3 fusible links there and as well as a fourth on feed going direct from the battery to the bulkhead connector. First thing is to ID the one that failed and find out why it failed.
For splicing all three together like the factory, one way would be an inline open barrel crimp. Then if you can save big insulator by slicing it off, reinstall that with electric tape.
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