Engine test stand wiring??

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Kent mosby

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I am putting together a 512 stroker. To test it out I got a test stand (walmart special). I only got half the parts as a box was missing (completely new one on the way) and of course the instructions were missing as well. It comes with a starter switch, oil pressure gauge, engine temperature and tachometer. I googled for a manual to no avail. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an engine test stand?? I have a "ready to run" distributor coming. (ebay). I also have a new blue ignition module and an old black one in case I need to run the old distributor.

Just for testing I will run this ignition setup. I will be going to Hyperspark ignition and EFI super sniper. My questions are

Does anyone have a wiring diagram or instructions for a test stand?? With a ready to run dizzy?
 
Almost impossible to answer without "the parts" you have or are going to use in front of you

Gauges wiring? Depends on the gauges. You planning on using a relay of some sort for the start relay or just a simple heavy duty push button?

What all is going to be wired up? Electric fuel pump? Water pump? EFI? etc?

Some good clear photos of what you have for a control panel would help
 
67Dart273 said:
Almost impossible to answer without "the parts" you have or are going to use in front of you

Gauges wiring? Depends on the gauges. You planning on using a relay of some sort for the start relay or just a simple heavy duty push button?

What all is going to be wired up? Electric fuel pump? Water pump? EFI? etc?

Some good clear photos of what you have for a control panel would help
Click to expand...
I will get it all mocked up and ask further. I appreciate the help.
 
Why would the wiring diagram be any different for a run stand from a car?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Why would the wiring diagram be any different for a run stand from a car?
Click to expand...

Well, one confusion is coming from saying he has a ready to run distributor on the way, and then he also has a blue ignition module.
The ready to run distributor only needs power, a ground and coil to run, and the blue module needs a shitload more wiring than that.
 
TrailBeast said:
Well, one confusion is coming from saying he has a ready to run distributor on the way, and then he also has a blue ignition module.
The ready to run distributor only needs power, a ground and coil to run, and the blue module needs a shitload more wiring than that.
Click to expand...

Then throw the blue module in the ditch.
 
By using a ready to run, I was hoping to eliminate the Blue module and simplify things. If on the stand there was something that is different than regular car wiring, I was hoping for a diagram. I have the mymopar wiring diagrams. If it was recommended to keep the old distributor instead of the RTR dizzy, I said that I have the blue module just in case. Can I get some clarification about the Ballast resistor? In a previous thread the Mymopar diagram was said to be WRONG and @67Dart273 put in a different diagram for wiring the resistor.

That is why I was hoping to get a simplified diagram to include all parts from battery, coil, alternator, resistor, RTR distributor, ignition switch, starter solenoid relay and gauges. The pic I have does not have the ballast resistor. What differences or changes would you propose? This also does not have the alternator info? any help? Thanks in advance


basic-wiring-for-chevy-test-stand-hot-rod-forum-hotrodders-of-engine-test-stand-wiring-diagram.jpg
 
The diagram I likely referred to is the popular conversion one, where it calls out a wire going to the "start relay." That is the part that is wrong. If you are going to run your Mopar system the problem is that in a Mopar CAR the ignition switch provides the ballast bypass during starting. On stuff like Ford/ GM, the ballast bypass was done on the starter solenoid.

There are several ways around this problem. . . . . . .if you are using a start button instead of a key switch, you can
1...install a relay for the bypass circuit
2...use a fairly large diode to feed the bypass circuit
3...use "dual" start switches and just push them simultaneously, and use the second switch for the ballast bypass

So you see, LOL "it aint" that simple, stand by.........

This is likely the "root source" of the wrong diagram

http://wawii.com/m37/manuals/MoPar Electronic Ignition - elecignconv.pdf

NOTICE SAYS "yellow wire to start relay." WHY this is wrong. On an earlier stick car (no clutch safety switch) or on any automatic car with the shifter in neutral or park, the start relay will have a GROUND path. When the engine is running, with the key in the run position, the yellow wire WILL BE BACKFED through the coil resistor, attempting to "fire" the start relay!!!! This can, in some cases cause the start relay to pull in and energize the starter, or if not the grounded start relay LOADS THE coil circuit from the resistor.
THAT CIRCUIT IS INCORRECT!!

electronic.jpg
 
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I found this: WRONG!!!

https://www.chargerr.com/Ignition/Ignition.htm

and this diagram WRONG

mopar_4pin_ign.jpg


because the diagram does NOT show specifically how the connector is pictured. Notice that it is a MIRROR IMAGE of the connector in the diagram earlier. In this diagram, you are looking into the front of the ECU connector and not "down at the rear of it" as in the earlier diagram. The point? BE CAREFUL
 
So let's add what needs to change:

electronic.jpg


basic-wiring-for-chevy-test-stand-hot-rod-forum-hotrodders-of-engine-test-stand-wiring-diagram.jpg


The UPPER arrow is where you will take off for the "run" connections. If you want to add an alternator, this is where you will tap off the blue field power and the VR IGN power. This is also where you tap off for the Mopar ECU "run" voltage which will hook to the upper diagram at bottom left the BLUE wire

This upper arrow is where you connect electric gauges and any other component that needs to be switched off/ on with ignition

The black arrow at middle right off the start button is the beginning of your bypass circuit. YOU CAN NOT simply hook that to the yellow "start" connection in the upper diagram. You either need a big diode in series, a second push button, or a second relay.

the OTHER thing you could do is run down a later "Jeep" style relay. This would replace the "starter solenoid" in your diagram AND provide your bypass contact

NOTICE this later style relay has AN EXTRA contact/ terminal

mopar_starter_relay_bal_zpseba4010c-jpg.jpg


The way to wire this:

1...Big stud goes to battery HOT
2...Terminal marked "fuel pump ballast" goes to the yellow wire in the Mopar ignition diagram above
3....Terminal marked "solenoid" goes to your Mopar starter solenoid
3....Ground the terminal at bottom marked ground
4....Run the bottom left terminal off to your starter switch

The real problem is, that there are many ways to skin this cat!!!! As Crackedback might say!!!
 
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on my 452 stroker build i think i had an oil pressure gage, power to the ignition and fuel pump with a switch, and i used a cheap trigger mechanism to the starter. i found an old video of starting it up for the first time. you can see the two wheeler dashboard at about 3:00min into the vid. it was nothin fancy.

 
oil pressure and eng temp along with tach. get the long braided stainless line for oil press gauge. well worth it, no question.
old wall switch for power off/on and remote starter switch for the starter itself.
battery at bottom of cart keeps weight low. ready to run dist. 2 wires and a coil.
100_6221.JPG
 
@67Dart273 You gave me a lot to consider. That is well thought out and well written. Loads of information and I will have to read and reread to fully comprehend it all. I understood it and then got lost, found my understanding and will study it again. I appreciate the help and When I put this together in the next few weeks I will post again what I have so that I have fully implemented what you advised. Thank you.
 
68 HEMI GTS said:
I wired mine just like a car. Chrysler starter relay, extra msd box, and I also put a charging system on it.

View attachment 1715241154 View attachment 1715241155
Click to expand...

Well I know I'm jealous!! If you went a bit further you'd have a dyno!!

To be technically correct, LOL, "you didn't" wire it like a car. The OP is considering using a Mopar ignition, which normally runs a ballast, and would normally have a ballast bypass for starting. That, really, is what all the hooraw is about LOL

A good hot spark is especially important on a new fire, because conditions are likely not optimum. Over/ under primed with fuel, oil in the cylinders, timing a little off and so on
 
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