Not too happy with my fans.....

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MrJLR

MrJLR

Built, not bought
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I am currently using the Summit Racing SUM-G4852 fans...
SUM-G4852_ml.jpg


But upon further road testing, they just don't move enough air.....

I am going to give the Dorman 620-101 fan a try...
620-101-001.jpg


Any thoughts or opinions?

Jeff
 
I thought your "fans" walked out on you or something :D

I would go belt driven. That's just me.
 
Are you overheating? I like what 318 is saying above. I think go belt driven OEM type fan with a shroud for regular cooling and if you have to have electric fan(s) mount it in front of the radiator with a toggle switch so you can use it for cool down after the engine is off.
 
lilfontleroy said:
Are you overheating? I like what 318 is saying above. I think go belt driven OEM type fan with a shroud for regular cooling and if you have to have electric fan(s) mount it in front of the radiator with a toggle switch so you can use it for cool down after the engine is off.
Click to expand...
Not overheating.....but creeping over 200 at stop lights....and I can imaging after I add AC & more horsepower...?


Jeff
 
Not to sound silly but are the fans moving the air in the correct direction? Had that happen to a clients car once - wired wrong from factory. Pushing air thru radiator not pulling.
When moving down the road the fans are not even doing anything but going along for the ride. They are only for airflow while stopped or moving slow.
I reread your 1st statement a few times and realize it can be taken a few diffrent ways. ("roadtested")
Keep us informed.
Joe
 
Syleng1 said:
Not to sound silly but are the fans moving the air in the correct direction? Had that happen to a clients car once - wired wrong from factory. Pushing air thru radiator not pulling.
When moving down the road the fans are not even doing anything but going along for the ride. They are only for airflow while stopped or moving slow.
I reread your 1st statement a few times and realize it can be taken a few diffrent ways. ("roadtested")
Keep us informed.
Joe
Click to expand...
Yup.....they're pulling the right direction.....

Jeff
 
j par said:
Do you have the money on a 20 amp fuse? Because mine needed a 30 amp fuse because of how much CFM it was pulling and how much current it was drying to do so.
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I am currently (PUN!) running a 25amp fuse on each fan.....


Jeff
 
Also I think a lot of my heating problems were from the stock one core radiator. It just plain out didn't have enough volume or water. When I put that cheap Summit 2 core radiator in it almost seemed to take twice as much water and waight half as much.
 
j par said:
Also I think a lot of my heating problems were from the stock one core radiator. It just plain out didn't have enough volume or water. When I put that cheap Summit 2 core radiator in it almost seemed to take twice as much water and waight half as much.
Click to expand...
I running a Champion CC526 3 core.....

Jeff
 
318willrun said:
I thought your "fans" walked out on you or something :D

I would go belt driven. That's just me.
Click to expand...
I disagree I think they just robbed horsepower. Aren't most cars now all electric fans anyways? Are you trying to get everybody else's car to go slow or while making yours faster? :poke:
 
A cooling fan for an HP application needs to move 4K CFM give or take. If it's not sloce to that, find one that is. Flex A Lite makes the Black Magic line of fans. They MOVE some air.
 
j par said:
Course the last question in the whole circle here is the thermostat what temperature is it? Also do you run your water pump mechanically?
Click to expand...
Tstat is a 170 Robert Shaw, standard water pump.....
Runs about 180 on the freeway......heats up at stop lights....

Jeff
 
RustyRatRod said:
A cooling fan for an HP application needs to move 4K CFM give or take. If it's not sloce to that, find one that is. Flex A Lite makes the Black Magic line of fans. They MOVE some air.
Click to expand...

I looked into them, really like them, but not sure it would clear my water pump.....


Jeff
 
The only other problem I've ever had was a lower radiator hose collapsing. but it definitely sounds like an air flow problem if it's staying cool on the freeway. Sounds like you need a little more air flow when at a light.
 
MrJLR said:
Tstat is a 170 Robert Shaw, standard water pump.....
Runs about 180 on the freeway......heats up at stop lights....

Jeff
Click to expand...
Does it boil over? Have you tried a different cap? 1 # of pressure raises the boiling point 3 degrees. A 15# cap gets you 45° above the boiling point. 200° is healthy.
 
Here's my setup.
Northern 22"rad, Factory shroud (had to make mounting brackets for it),180 Degree thermostat, Factory clutch fan, Mopar Performance 8-blade water pump. Clutch sits approx. 3/4 " away from the rad.
Approx 500 hp , 10.5 compression, 4-speed , 3.91 gear ratio.
Car runs cool all day , stop and go, no issues. I've got part numbers for all these parts if you need them.



DSCN5096.JPG
 
CFM Ratings are free flow/unrestricted. Flow changes as soon as you place the radiator in front of it. Path of least resistance becomes an issues if the shroud is not sealed very well around the radiator. Do you have any large gaps between the shroud/assembly and radiator?
 
dano said:
CFM Ratings are free flow/unrestricted. Flow changes as soon as you place the radiator in front of it. Path of least resistance becomes an issues if the shroud is not sealed very well around the radiator. Do you have any large gaps between the shroud/assembly and radiator?
Click to expand...
No.....I sealed it up real good.....


Jeff
 
j par said:
I disagree I think they just robbed horsepower. Aren't most cars now all electric fans anyways? Are you trying to get everybody else's car to go slow or while making yours faster? :poke:
Click to expand...
I disagreed with you just because it was fun
:lol:
 
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