Shaved Heads/Intake

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CowBoyRoy81

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Quick question and I already did some searching for the answer.

I have 360 with heads shaved .040 and the intake is a pain to get on. Going to take the intake off to inspect lifters and measure actual pushrod length. Since it'll be off does anyone know how much I should shave my intake manifold to compensate for the heads being milled that much?

Mines the closer one. Thanks in advance!

Darts.jpg
 
According to wallaceracing.com calculator it's .056 on the intake side. Does this sound right? to anyone? Like most people, I"m in a town with primarily Chevy and Ford experienced shops.
 
As Pishta said above, .038 per side per Chrysler Racing Manual. They should have cut the intake side of the heads instead of Dorking up an intake.
 
.040" off the head block surface, take 95% of that off the head intake surface, or .038"
 
As Pishta said above, .038 per side per Chrysler Racing Manual. They should have cut the intake side of the heads instead of Dorking up an intake.

Yeah I'm going to pull the heads after all and measure CC while I'm at it. I agree they should have but when I had them done I was young and 21 and trusted all professional shops to do the right thing. Then I left for the Army and the car sat some 13 years before I tore back into it. Now I'm correcting mistakes made back then....but she's running good after a new short block and fuel system. I'm just continually improving and going to use the winter to rebuild suspension, measure and get correct pushrods, spec out the engine and service the tranny after I rebuilt it and she's now broke in.
 
Yeah I'm going to pull the heads after all and measure CC while I'm at it. I agree they should have but when I had them done I was young and 21 and trusted all professional shops to do the right thing. Then I left for the Army and the car sat some 13 years before I tore back into it. Now I'm correcting mistakes made back then....but she's running good after a new short block and fuel system. I'm just continually improving and going to use the winter to rebuild suspension, measure and get correct pushrods, spec out the engine and service the tranny after I rebuilt it and she's now broke in.

Sounds good, It took me a while to find people who really knew what they were talking about. I amazes me how know-nothings can sound good and yet have no clue... Unfortunately you have to check everything if you want anything done right.
 
Sounds good, It took me a while to find people who really knew what they were talking about. I amazes me how know-nothings can sound good and yet have no clue... Unfortunately you have to check everything if you want anything done right.
yes, measure twice, ask 6 people their opinions, then cut once.
 
Exactly
if the originals were .020 and the new are .060 that would not require any cutting at all.
i think it is the opposite. you need to remove material not add some.
the easy way to solve that problem would be to elongate the bolt holes in the intake, although port alignment would still not be totally perfect.
also, i wouldnt change the pushrod length for only a .040 cut on the heads. the hydraulic lifters will have slightly more preload.
 
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i think it is the opposite. you need to remove material not add some.
the easy way to solve that problem would be to elongate the bolt holes in the intake, although port alignment would still not be totally perfect.
also, i wouldnt change the pushrod length for only a .040 cut on the heads. the hydraulic lifters will have slightly more preload.
.020 plus zero = .020.
.060 less .040 cut = .020
 
Also keep in mind most likely both the head and intake gaskets were the metal shim style from the factory.
So you need to adjust for what ever thickness gasket you are now using.

I had a rough time getting the bolts in an aluminum intake when changing from a 2 bbl, with no head cutting, or removing the heads, the only difference was the metal vs fel-pro gasket.
 
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