tony20110
Well-Known Member
What is this “fuse box” connected to the firewall of my 66 barracuda termed? Thanks
Dumb question
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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The mother of all electrical demons
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
That mon frere is the bulkhead connector where all the wiring from the cabin to engine and vise versa pass through the firewall. (which in this case looks like it needs some help)
tony20110
Well-Known Member
Thanks y’all. It is a demon and it does need help. Good times.
j par
Well-hung Member
That was put there for ease of installation. I elected to unplug that and run my exterior wires under my drivers Fender concealed in a protective tubing.
Unless you're trying to make it look like it came out of the factory then nevermind.
That's the biggest POS on Mopars besides the amp gauge wiring. If you want to make a tremendous upgrade, look at wiring harnesses by Ron Francis. They completely eliminate that bulk head connector and are very high quality.
Wagon of Death
Aussie Barracuda Fisherman
j par...did you just cut the connectors off, and extend the wiring to rejoin inside? This is on my to-do list and Im curious how folk get around it
tony20110
Well-Known Member
Wish I had the money. That upgrade is gonna have to wait.
j par
Well-hung Member
I think it's a rediculous recommendation to buy wiring harnesses. I bought a spool of wire for $15.
j par
Well-hung Member
I can relate to that.
Some think it's equally ridiculous to use 50 plus year old original wiring. Wiring does have a life span. I'd much rather have a new, expensive wiring harness I saved up for than a pile of ashes in the driveway.
I found the wiring harness for my rat rod truck on Speedway Motors on clearance for like 119 dollars. No bulk head connector and 21 circuits. Total overkill for my project, but it was there, I needed one and it's NICE. You can find deals if you're not in a hurry.
j par
Well-hung Member
For a hobbyist which this is there only car and only project and not pulling the wiring harness out and stretching it all completely out on a piece of 4 by 8 plywood on two saw horses and rebuilding it. What kind of doubt you're going to take it all out and put it all back in. And you have tons of time and no money? Today or replace this wire and tomorrow I replace that wire and so on till it's done each wire individually is new and you know where it started and where it's going. All connections are changed or refurbished. take it off the pegboard and plug it in with complete knowledge of where all your wires go.
Don't worry about it.
Clean it, check the terminals, and if you feel ambitious, remove each terminal and clean them properly. Reinstall.
Several threads here with photos and descriptions.
And if you drive alot at night, make a relay set up or buy one from screen name crackedback.
The fusebox is under the dash, near the left side vent door.
Headlights have a 15 amp circuit breaker in the switch.
OTH, the wires through the sheet metal needs to be addressed as soon as possible.
Without the grommet, or something like it, it won't take much to cut through the wire insulation.
And the snipped wire (in circle) isn't much better.
Tape it. Find out what its for (get a '66 shop manual).
When you take the connector off, that terminal can be removed if you're not using, or replaced if putting back into service.
One more tip. Power is distributed in several places, not just the fusebox. The starter relay, the main junction, and then half the fuse box is hot from the main junction. The other half of the fuses are only hot when the key is switched to run or accessory.
Without the grommet, or something like it, it won't take much to cut through the wire insulation.
And the snipped wire (in circle) isn't much better.
Tape it. Find out what its for (get a '66 shop manual).
When you take the connector off, that terminal can be removed if you're not using, or replaced if putting back into service.
One more tip. Power is distributed in several places, not just the fusebox. The starter relay, the main junction, and then half the fuse box is hot from the main junction. The other half of the fuses are only hot when the key is switched to run or accessory.
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Here's one, except its a later year so the connector positions are not quite the same. Concept for disconnecting and cleaning is the same.
question on the main harness plug on firewall
Remeber some of those are connected to the main feeds so are hot all the time. Disconnect the battery before the connectors. Negative first.
tony20110
Well-Known Member
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