Enginetech bearings and rings

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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Has anyone here used engine tech bearings and or rings? If so the good the bad and the ugly please?
 
I've not run engine tech that I can remember..... Look at your bearings and see if they are oversized, standard...….
 
318willrun said:
I've not run engine tech that I can remember..... Look at your bearings and see if they are oversized, standard...….
Click to expand...
They should be standard the engine is all original. Right? Is there markings on them If they are oversized? Did the factory use oversized bearings?
 
dartfreak75 said:
They should be standard the engine is all original. Right? Is there markings on them If they are oversized? Did the factory use oversized bearings?
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yep, sometimes the factory used oversized. std would be standard. You'll plastic gage anyways......
 
Tbh I don't know much about it at this point but I'm reading and learning. Yall feel free to throw in your wisdom
 
Hello dartfreak75.

Just as a comment,
When you check any clearance be sure that all the parts and tools (torque wrench) are at room temperature.
Dont forget to check the block, crank, and rods using inside / outside micrometer to conform the sizes.
If in doubt have the block line checked and or honed / bored.
Use the correct Plastigauge for the clearance range you are trying to measure.
Here is some info on the theory of Plastigauge.
Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works
Try do do all your work in a clean well-lit area.
Take your time and check twice if not sure.
Chrysler was known to use / mix standard and or oversize components on there assembly lines.
Hope this helps.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
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Arron tate said:
Hello dartfreak75.

Just as a comment,
When you check any clearance be sure that all the parts and tools (torque wrench) are at room temperature.
Dont forget to check the block, crank, and rods using inside / outside micrometer to conform the sizes.
If in doubt have the block line checked and or honed / bored.
Use the correct Plastigauge for the clearance range you are trying to measure.
Here is some info on the theory of Plastigauge.
Genuine Plastigauge - How It Works
Try do do all your work in a clean well-lit area.
Take your time and check twice if not sure.
Chrysler was known to use / mix standard and or oversize components on there assembly lines.
Hope this helps.
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
Click to expand...
Thank you Arron that is very helpful information I appreciate your advice. Please stay tuned I'm sure I will have lots of questions lol
 
Yes. We used them twice for 318 and 5.2, average stock stuff, nothing found bad. They shipped right pistons (.030”) with standard bore rings, quickly sent us .030” rings so we ended up with extra standard rings. Even the cam measured out good, I was a little surprised I didn’t find anything wrong. For a cheap rebuild I’d use them again.
 
Used them on a stock 225 /6 rebuild. Nothing wrong with them there. I've tended to use Clevite 77's for higher performance engines, but I suspect you'll be A-OK with the Enginetechs; this is just a good warm-up rebuild, not all out.
 
Thanks that's good news. Ok I have a rather odd question. I got my bearings out and cleaned them up to inspect them and I noticed something weird. I was very careful to keep everything orderly and in its place so I know I did not mix anything up. The first bearing has the groove in the center on both sides and a oil hole in both sides even tho there is no oil access in the main cap. 2 and 4 have a smooth top 1 3 5 have the grooves. But one is the only one that has a oil hole on the top. All of them have the oil hole on the block side of course. Is this normal? Or did someone from the factory mess up lol. Here is a picture. And also the #1 cap bearing is narrower than the block side one?? Here is a pic.
I checked all the markings and the bearing from #1 says STD. The other 4 do not but they all have numbers that I dont know what they mean I'm assuming it's a date code cause they all say 4-86

20181107_081608.jpg
 
Here are the markings the cap end all have al-6 and the block end have the 4-86 along with what I'm assuming is the main position c2 c4 etc.

20181107_082625.jpg


20181107_082508.jpg


20181107_082456.jpg


20181107_082434.jpg
 
IIRC, there are some markings on the SN pad of the block that have special symbols for any undersized main or rod bearing used in the factory. BTW, do you have a dial caliper? If so that will be accurate enough see if the journals are all standard; any journal being tuned down .010" or .020" will be obvious with a caliper. (Checking actual wear is best done with a micrometer.)

I can't say I ever paid a whole lot of attention to the bearings I take out and toss, besides the STD markings, so can't be of much help there.
 
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nm9stheham said:
IIRC, there are some markings on the SN pad of the block that have special symbols for any undersized main or rod bearing used in the factory. BTW, do you have a dial caliper? If so that will be accurate enough see if the journals are all standard; any journal being tuned down .010" or .020" will be obvious with a caliper. (Checking actual wear is best done with a micrometer.)

I can't say I ever paid a whole lot of attention to the bearings I take out and toss, besides the STD markings, so can't be of much help there.
Click to expand...
Ok cool good info thank you yes I have a good set of calipers I use for reloading guess its time to get them greasy lol
 
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