340 in a 1966 valiant, remote oil filter woes

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buzzmc

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Title describes it, but I'll elaborate.

I doubt it matters, but the 340 is stroked to 416.

The headers are from TTI, and took a lot of finesse to get installed, but are full length headers, no fenderwell nonsense, etc. Something I've always wanted... But necessitate a remote oil filter... There just is no room.
(note, I'm hoping to find someone else that's gone thru my nightmare here, with a good outcome).

Moroso remote oil filter block adapter, and some other remote oil filter mount. -12an lines and fittings.

Somewhere on the block side I have an oil leak... and as y'all know, oil goes everywhere, so it's very hard to find where exactly it is. As the motor is freshly rebuilt/stroked/etc, all gaskets are new, etc, etc. Barring a rear main seal, which I think is unlikely at this time, it seems to me the likely culprit is this remote adapter.

Thoughts? Better remote adapter or other oiling solution? I'm all ears here. I just want to get the small leak (which of course makes a big mess) buttoned up.

Thanks all.
 
Climb under and have someone start it so you can see the oil squirt, if it sqirts in your face you will see where it's coming from.
 
I also have the same remote filter set up as you are describing and by the sounds of your post, we also had similar issues. I was fighting a leak for quite some time.

Ended up tightening the hell out of it and it finally stopped. I pray that it doesn't come loose and dread the day I have to tinker with it again.

This was about 3 years ago now and have not had any issues with it, was a son of a gun to get it right though
 
Are you using the Canton remote or just a bolt on adapter over the OEM plate? I bet the plate gasket is leaking. The plates can bend, they can bottom out without sealing or just be wasted on the gasket side. Take it out, look at it. See if the screw flange is inline with the outside edge. If not, tap it with a hammer so it is bowed out so when you tighten it, the edges hit first. Then of course use a new gasket and scrape the old crap out. I had 2 gaskets under mine as the old one was painted and I didnt even see it. finally got it to seal: Mr Gasket with 2 Industrial 3/4 hoses attached to 2 Russel NPT 45's. for some reason I had to tighten the hoses onto the adapter before I screwed it on to the block so I was turning everything. Finally got it tight and ran the hoses up the fenderwell and tied them into the filter adapter.
 
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Are you using the Canton remote or just a bolt on adapter over the OEM plate? I bet the plate gasket is leaking. The plates can bend, they can bottom out without sealing or just be wasted on the gasket side. Take it out, look at it. See if the screw flange is inline with the outside edge. If not, tap it with a hammer so it is bowed out so when you tighten it, the edges hit first. Then of course use a new gasket and scrape the old crap out. I had 2 gaskets under mine as the old one was painted and I didnt even see it. finally got it to seal

Moroso adapter, brand new gasket.

As for getting it out - After I've collected all the responses, I'll do something. But it's an enormous effort to remove. I have had to buy a 1 1/4" crows foot just to tighten the AN fittings onto the adapter with the header in place. The bolt that holds the adapter on is 1.5" or there abouts, and my 3/4" ratchet set has sockets big enough to fit it, but those don't obviously work with the lack of room I'm dealing with.

To remote the header to get at all this stuff requires removing the transmission and bellhousing. Then the header can come out through the BOTTOM, as the adapter prevents the header from coming out from the top.... Oh, and of course I have to drain tranny oil and coolant.

I am hoping at the end of this I get a holy grail of an answer :)
 
If the plate is still in that's the problem, don't use an adapter with the o.e. plate
 
If the plate is still in that's the problem, don't use an adapter with the o.e. plate

Can you help with this plate? I suspect it's in there, as I removed nothing except the oil filter. If I needed/need to remove something else, I'll be happy to do the rather large amount of work to get something out of there that's messing with me.

note, the oil leak is not large - If that helps. Not large at all. It's just annoying as AF.
 
With my 360 and TTIs in a 68 Barracuda, after the initial build she would pump oil out the filter base. I took it off
doubled it up with a second plate and doubled the number of holes in it. problem solved. I used to run the long filter up in there, but it was a lil tricky getting it outta there. So I switched to the shortys. Yeah it still pisses oil on the header, but my car is a driver so I don't care. It burns off in a minute or two.
 
youll know you got a plate when you see a bunch of holes under the adapter. The canton bolts directly to the block IIRC but still needs a perimeter gasket. I have an older one that bolts to stock plate with an O-ring. Its smaller than todays. It is tough down there to work, but I didnt have it as bad as you. Supercomps in a 65.
 
If the plate is still in that's the problem, don't use an adapter with the o.e. plate
Mmmmm..... the Canton and Moroso type have a female threaded center bolt, which goes onto the nipple of the standard filter setup, and are sized with a seal diameter that matches the oil filter mount pad on the filter plate. I am not sure you can mount it without the plate.... it at least needs a nipple, and not sure the gasket would match any machined surface on the block. (Edit to add: I just check a 360 block and there is no machined surface for the remote adapter to seal to without the filter plate.)

IIRC, we mounted our Canton adapter WITH the plate. Yep, looks like we did:

DSCN1909.JPG
 
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I also have the same remote filter set up as you are describing and by the sounds of your post, we also had similar issues. I was fighting a leak for quite some time.

Ended up tightening the hell out of it and it finally stopped. I pray that it doesn't come loose and dread the day I have to tinker with it again.

This was about 3 years ago now and have not had any issues with it, was a son of a gun to get it right though
You never know... we have not had one bit of problems with the Canton remote adapter. Can't recall if we had to torque it extra hard or not. We DID make sure the filter plate on the block was sealing well before we put the Canton piece on.

If I was the OP, I'd try this first...extra torque on the Moroso adapter's center bolt. Just increase it a bit at time and see. You might be able to grind an open end wrench thinner and bend it a bit to get in there.
 
Not familiar with the requirements of the TTI install, but can a stock right angle filter adapter work?
 
You never know... we have not had one bit of problems with the Canton remote adapter. Can't recall if we had to torque it extra hard or not. We DID make sure the filter plate on the block was sealing well before we put the Canton piece on.

If I was the OP, I'd try this first...extra torque on the Moroso adapter's center bolt. Just increase it a bit at time and see. You might be able to grind an open end wrench thinner and bend it a bit to get in there.

The head on this thing is like 1.5", and I did put a 3/4" ratchet on it and made sure it was very snug. I'm sure I can tighten it more, and I may try, but 3/4" ratchet and socket = plenty of leverage :)

I wonder how different the canton is than the moroso. They look very, very similar.
 
Not familiar with the requirements of the TTI install, but can a stock right angle filter adapter work?

I have been contemplating this. It MAY, but I'm not entirely sure yet. There's just very little room. I'll try and take a pick tonight.
 
The head on this thing is like 1.5", and I did put a 3/4" ratchet on it and made sure it was very snug. I'm sure I can tighten it more, and I may try, but 3/4" ratchet and socket = plenty of leverage :)

I wonder how different the canton is than the moroso. They look very, very similar.
They are.... I think the Canton piece has larger threaded inlet and outlet holes.

If you can turn the bolt any more, that may in turn put a bit more pressure on the filter-plate-to-block gasket. The gaskets may have compressed and 'relaxed' some. The filter plates issues of being too flat and not compressing it gasket to the block, as mentioned above, is a well known issue.
 
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You should be able to use the stock 90° adapter and a very short filter with TTI headers. They are supposed to fit. The angle the filter is on is pretty critical. Takes a bit of trial & error to get it to clear.
 
Mmmmm..... the Canton and Moroso type have a female threaded center bolt, which goes onto the nipple of the standard filter setup, and are sized with a seal diameter that matches the oil filter mount pad on the filter plate. I am not sure you can mount it without the plate.... it at least needs a nipple, and not sure the gasket would match any machined surface on the block. (Edit to add: I just check a 360 block and there is no machined surface for the remote adapter to seal to without the filter plate.)

IIRC, we mounted our Canton adapter WITH the plate. Yep, looks like we did:

View attachment 1715242245


That one is smaller than the one my friend was using, not sure of the brand but it was closer to the block because it didn't use the plate the filter sits on and went right on the block.
 
Is this the part you are using? Moroso 23682, If so It does use the plate.

23682_part.jpg
 
Is this the part you are using? Moroso 23682, If so It does use the plate.

View attachment 1715242315
That is the part.

With the massive bolt head, that I'm sure most people might only have a large crescent or use a pipe wrench on.

Sadly for me there's no way to get any tools on that thing while the header is in place in my car.

I do love these headers, but good god damn they are a labor of love.
 
The stock right angle oil filter adapter works fine . If you have the small head hollow bolt it works as is . The large head bolt can be modified by cutting or grinding down the head to approx 1/8¨ thick and then welding on a 1/2¨nut (3/4¨wrench) which gives about 1/8-1/4¨ clearance.
 
i did it like this . And then plug the center hole with a bolt.On my avatar there is an oilfilter now,cause it's going to the run in bench, but you can see there is lots of room for the lines when they come out at a straight angle.

IMG_20170218_145526.jpg


IMG_20170507_084550.jpg
 
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