Push Start a Torqueflite For Me

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dibbons

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My first trip to Fremont Raceway (circa 1974) in my '65 Valiant four-door (stock 273 auto) went for naught when the tech inspector found the vehicle had no seat belt.

I returned to Fremont at a later date, now with the seat belt. While waiting in the tech line, a guy who worked for a local wrecking yard in my home area (80 miles south of the drag strip) walked over to me and pointed to the dented trunk lid. He said he recognized my Valiant because some time ago he was the person responsible for the damage. He admitted he was trying to help the previous owner push start the Valiant with his truck.

I even tried to push start it once myself, but pushing it in gear did not turn the motor over at all. I had read somewhere that older Torqueflites have both a front and rear "pump", which enables them to be push started. Just a fable as far as I am concerned. Never heard from anyone who's done it, never read a story anywhere where this push start feature started a Mopar automatic either.

pushit.jpg
 
Some of the very old automatics had a front and rear pump and could be push started.
The output shaft turned by the driveline made the rear pump function engaging the clutches and turning the engine.
Some Fords also had this feature.
 
The old pre- 62 cast-iron Torqueflites/Powerflites (2 speed), and the early 727s, circa 62 - 63ish IIRC came with a rear pump, and I have push started some of those vehicles. lol
 
Had a 57 BelAire with a tow-start feature. I musta towed that thing 10 miles with the engine happily whirling away but nary a cough or a sputter or a peep; just the whirring. Finally I got so frustrated I started playing with the column shifter, and the first nudge I gave it, the engine sprang to life and I nearly ran over the tow-vehicle.
Note to self; make sure not to tow-start in reverse. Gimme a break; I was not yet 16 years old, and I had just finished reconditioning the 283.
 
62 to 65 Torqueflites have a rear pump so they can be push or pull started. We just did it with a 65 Dart last summer to show the owner it could be done.
 
over 50 years ago, I seem to remember we pushed a 55 Chevy w/ powerglide to get it started, but I think it had to be going pretty fast as I recall.
 
Your correct about 55 Chevy's with Power glide. I had my dad push it a few blocks before it fired up. When it ran it smoked so bad I had to rebuild the motor. After rebuilding the motor, I drove it from NY to Denver Colo to finish my Tech School in the Air Force. 265's were pretty good motors when they ran.
 
I pushed started my friend’s 1964 Belvedere 383 727 auto back in 1976. I think the motor kicked over when we got up to about 25 mph. We tied a couple of tires to the front of my car to protect both cars.
 
I've often wondered if you can not plumb in an electric pump on the newer ones and "regain" that feature
 
You don't push it in drive. You push in neutral and then drop it in drive. Something about the sudden engagement of the pump. We did several that "they said" couldn't be done like that when we were kids.
 
But you have to have the engine running for the PS pump to have pressure. Push starting is to start the engine.
Actually, the power steering pump makes pressure while cranking; same as the front transmission pump. If you have an engine that won't start because you just need more cranking power, you could bypass the neutral safety switch, push the car, drop it in drive, and crank the motor. Then the tires would drive the engine faster helping it to start. Just like trying to save gas with an automatic when coasting down hill by shutting off the engine doesn't work because the trans will crank the motor; sucking in more gas. You have to put it in neutral to stop the effect. I've often considered using the power steering pump to design a clutchflite.
 
Well the idea is if you have a failed starter.................
 
What other reason would you need to push start an automatic?
It could be flooded and there isn't enough battery to clear it..maybe your motor needs more rpm of cranking power to get started after setting for a long time. I've seen and been in many different types of situations where a motor would crank but not start, so it was pushed and it started. Could have compression problems in several cylinders (especially a diesel). A diesel with low compression will crank like crazy all day and not start until you push it. I don't recommend push starting; it's dangerous and usually unnecessary, but if the advice of bypassing the neutral safety switch and cranking the motor while pushing can get somebody home where they can fix their car right, I'll be there with it.
 
It could be flooded and there isn't enough battery to clear it..maybe your motor needs more rpm of cranking power to get started after setting for a long time. I've seen and been in many different types of situations where a motor would crank but not start, so it was pushed and it started. Could have compression problems in several cylinders (especially a diesel). A diesel with low compression will crank like crazy all day and not start until you push it. I don't recommend push starting; it's dangerous and usually unnecessary, but if the advice of bypassing the neutral safety switch and cranking the motor while pushing can get somebody home where they can fix their car right, I'll be there with it.

Ok so.......then the starter won't turn the engine. Same scenario. You're splittin hairs here.
 
Ok so.......then the starter won't turn the engine. Same scenario. You're splittin hairs here.
Now you are misquoting me. Please read my post before you answer. It would save time and your position as "Tech editor" would be better represented. (Sounds like maybe I've irritated the wrong vendor.) Or maybe I've irritated a few posters with my replies; for which I should apologize. Let's all hold hands and take a deep breath and hold it whilst I formulate my apology.
 
I did read it. Your scenario is the same. The starter is either inop, OR cannot turn the engine fast enough or long enough. Same scenario. And I don't give a **** about your opinion about me being "tech editor". It is a position I neither applied for or asked for. Sparkle pony, you might say.
 
I did read it. Your scenario is the same. The starter is either inop, OR cannot turn the engine fast enough or long enough. Same scenario. And I don't give a **** about your opinion about me being "tech editor". It is a position I neither applied for or asked for. Sparkle pony, you might say.
As a Tech Editor, you should know the differences between a completely inoperable starter and an electrical system unable to turn the engine fast enough or long enough. Plus you should be able to see the value of turning the motor just fast enough to engage the forward clutch, but still unable to bring the motor to start. It isn't splitting hairs if it gets a person home safely. Not everybody has TripleAAA like I do and where there's a will there's a way.
 
As a Tech Editor, you should know the differences between a completely inoperable starter and an electrical system unable to turn the engine fast enough or long enough. Plus you should be able to see the value of turning the motor just fast enough to engage the forward clutch, but still unable to bring the motor to start. It isn't splitting hairs if it gets a person home safely. Not everybody has TripleAAA like I do and where there's a will there's a way.

Oh my GAWD. What's the difference? In any of the cases that have been outlined, the starter cannot do the job.........for "WHATEVER" reason. I see way more than you think.
 
Good idea; or plumb the power steering pump to the trans.
clutchflite is a AT with a clutch. the PS pump energizes all the hydrauilics and the clutch is the connection, acts like a full auto under power without the torque multiplication.
 
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