1964 Plymouth Barracuda headlight knob won't pull out from dash

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I am restoring my Barracuda and cannot pull the headlight knob from the dash to either the parking light or the full on position. It does not budge. Since I can't remove the knob and the stem, I cannot remove the switch body from behind the dash. I have tried reaching behind the dash to push the button on the switch yet that had no effect. The knob turns freely and smoothly clockwise and counter clockwise but will not pull out. It does not feel like a frozen switch but when I try to pull it out from the dash, it does not budge. What am I doing wrong? Any suggestions or alternatives for replacing the switch?
 
They are hard sometimes.
Even new.
I don't have a good suggestion.
Seems like you are doing the right thing.
PUSH the button harder and wiggle..........
It's got to clear the groove.
Some of the knobs come off the stem, I think.
Well, they all come off if pulled hard enough wouldn't they?
Then you could get it apart.
Is there a set screw?

MB1240.jpg
 
I suspect the switch is bad. Has either melted or fallen apart inside.
Typically,pull headlight switch on,depress release and remove knob with shaft.
 
From your description, i dont think its a keeper anyway.
 
I didn't see a set screw but will look again. Absent that I guess I will see what it takes to pull out the stem or pull off the knob. I assume the stem and knob can be purchased just like the switch body?? Thanks for everyone's help. JAS
 
There is no setscrew.
If its stuck its fubar.
Yank on it.
I would be more concerned about saving the knob/stem than the switch.
If headlight switch wont pull/push its junk.
As a last attempt i would look at dismantling switch while its still under dash.i think its riveted though. Some can be pried apart.
Then pieces fall out.
 
I didn't see a set screw but will look again. Absent that I guess I will see what it takes to pull out the stem or pull off the knob.

There's no set screw as the knob and shaft are made as one unit. I'd try giving it one hell of a yank and see if won't break loose. IDK if the correct knob is being repro'd for your 64. The picture adriver posted is correct for a 66/67 Charger and fit's just about every headlight switch (which you should replace).
 
There's no set screw as the knob and shaft are made as one unit. I'd try giving it one hell of a yank and see if won't break loose. IDK if the correct knob is being repro'd for your 64. The picture adriver posted is correct for a 66/67 Charger and fit's just about every headlight switch (which you should replace).
I just removed one from a 64 Valiant. You have to push the little plastic button on the side of the switch.
I had to turn and wiggle the knob to get it out. The knob for the wipers should have a set screw, then turn
the slotted round retainers to remove the switches from the dash.
 
Some are a royal PITA!

Push HARD on the button while at the same time pushing and pulling on the knob.

Make sure you are pushing the button straight in, sometimes the button wants to kick to the side and then it will never release.

U may have to do some car yoga to make sure you're pushing it straight in.
 
Perhaps you all didnt read op’s first post. The Switch is Stuck. It will not withdraw to On Position.
Reason for his difficulty.
 
A few hard pulls (which rocked the car) and the knob came off. Not the outcome I was hoping for, but it at least allows me to move forward. Thanks everyone for your help. The best thing is no more car yoga. The last time I wormed my way under that steering wheel in front of the seats, my leg cramped up and I thought I would never get out of there.
 
Shoot a little WD up into the hole. Let it set for awhile then try again.
 
Shoot a little WD up into the hole. Let it set for awhile then try again.
Headlight switch is replaced. But still NO headlights. I now have parking lights and at least some dash lights but neither regular or high beams on the headlights. I directly wired headlights to the battery and they come on both low and high. I have cleaned all the gang couplings under the dash and at the fire wall. I have also checked fuses and checked for continuity. Any other suggestions? Fuel gauge is also not working with a new sender unit in gas tank - but I don't know if that is related it it hasn't worked for a while but I blamed it on the sender unit. Guess not.
 
Floor dimmer. Check for power in/out.
 
If I recall correctly there should be a light green wire which provides power from the headlight switch to the dimmer switch. I think red and black leave the dimmer to the headlights. Check to make sure the light green wire has power. Then check that power goes through the dimmer switch. Let us know results.
 
do you get 12V off the H lug (light green) on the switch with the lights on? That feeds power to floor dimmer that sends it high (red) or low (black) beam.
 
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Thanks for your help. I got into the wiring leading to the floor dimmer switch and tried to remove the connector from the switch. The dimmer switch came apart as I pulled on the connector. I cleaned the contacts and did a quick hot glue gun fix and headlights came on! I am off to the parts store to replace the dimmer switch. Thanks for everyone's help.
 
you should consider an "upgrade" at this point. Install a relay to power the headlights. Full amp draw goes through the light switch in the dash. People make the mistake of putting in brighter (more wattage) bulbs. This higher draw is a problem. Many a mopar has been set on fire by these switches shorting out on the higher amp draw especially as they age. Its easy to do. MUCH safer and you'll have brighter headlamps too. IMHO
 
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