Electric choke wire hookup

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moparmucelli

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Hi guys I currently have a 1970 duster with a 360 2 barrel and I am going to go to a edelbrock 1406 electric choke and I was wondering what I can splice into for the electric choke or where I can connect it to under the dash in the fuse panel?
 
I hooked mine up to the alternator field wire that is switched.....been like that since 2005....
 
There is only one switched hot wire under the hood. It's blue, at ballast resistor, voltage regulator and alternator. So tapping this blue wire somewhere along its route to the alternator is typical. In fact, when the factory engineers added a electric choke assist to their thermal choke well, they tapped this same wire. The difference is how much current different electric chokes use. The factory installed a choke controller, mounted underneath the coil, but their choke heater was a like a small piece of electric range element. So... go ahead and wire your aftermarket electric choke to this blue wire assuming that it wont cause charging system problems. If it does we'll seek a solution. good luck
 
There is only one switched hot wire under the hood. It's blue, at ballast resistor, voltage regulator and alternator. So tapping this blue wire somewhere along its route to the alternator is typical. In fact, when the factory engineers added a electric choke assist to their thermal choke well, they tapped this same wire. The difference is how much current different electric chokes use. The factory installed a choke controller, mounted underneath the coil, but their choke heater was a like a small piece of electric range element. So... go ahead and wire your aftermarket electric choke to this blue wire assuming that it wont cause charging system problems. If it does we'll seek a solution. good luck
Ok thanks i will try that
 
If one is adding an electric choke and NOS choke controller at the same time would the wiring be the same as above?
 
What Redfish was alluding to earlier is that ADDING stuff to the blue wire may aggravate voltage drop problems which cause over voltage from the VR This might be a good time to check voltage drop and "see where you are." Turn the key to run Check voltage between battery + and the blue connection at the alternator. Don't disconnect to probe it, leave all wiring connected. You wat to measure "the less the better" and more than .3V (3 tenths of one volt) you might want to fix it. One way is to use a relay to supply under-hood loads. Electrically cut the blue feed coming out of the bulkhead and use that to trigger a relay

You might also want to fuse your choke controller as NONE of that circuit is fused other than the main fuse link.....which is poor/ no protection
 
I like to use a relay, and 5 min rear window defrost timer to shut off choke power when engine is warm.
jmo
 
Thank defrost relay is a good idea. However in my case with a choke controller, if I plan on blocking off the heat crossover passage, I wonder if intake manifold heat will be enough to shut down the choke controller?
 
Thank defrost relay is a good idea. However in my case with a choke controller, if I plan on blocking off the heat crossover passage, I wonder if intake manifold heat will be enough to shut down the choke controller?

It works on conventional Holley chokes, don't see why Eddy should be different, but, knowing Eddy ? ?
If you have headers, engine compartment heat won't be a prob. lol
 
That blue wire is live with the key in "run", so it would be feeding the choke continuously. The controller will shut it off when it heats up, thus killing the circuit. I highly recommend the choke controller as a shorted choke would cause a lot of grief. I've never seen it happen , jus saying.
 
I use the blue ignition switched lead to the 2 speed wiper motor. While this is hot always with ignition on it is protected by the built in circuit breaker in the wiper switch and not inline with the charging wires. Would likely be the easiest choice when used with a controller.
 
I am still I little unclear where the controller gets its heat source from, is it from the bolt that attaches it to the intake manifold or elsewhere?
 
The OEM choke controller is/was a little ceramic enclosure with 2 of what resembles the mechanical voltage limiters inside ( resistor wire wound on bimetal beams ). Those windings generate a lot of heat. That's why, like a ballast resistor, it is ceramic cased. Ballast resistor gets sooo hot that it was placed in a cooler position. This choke controller was placed so to get warm and stay warm.
The heat from the element would wick back through the wire toward the controller so that length of wire was wrapped in fiberglass/asbestos? A woven casing.
This was all just a choke assist to make the choke open a little faster, satisfy the EPA. I have no idea how it will work with the crossover blocked.
 
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Can I run it to the fuse panel?
Depending on year model, you may have only 3 switched fused circuits inside and those are pretty much loaded already. What do you do? Toss out the radio? I don't know how much current a aftermarket choke draws. Tapping the switched blue wire in engine bay seems to work for others.
 
Depending on year model, you may have only 3 switched fused circuits inside and those are pretty much loaded already. What do you do? Toss out the radio? I don't know how much current a aftermarket choke draws. Tapping the switched blue wire in engine bay seems to work for others.
Ok yea I have a a 70 duster that’s was originally a slant 6 it has a cheap aftermarket radio
 
hi guys can I run the wire to the fuse panel under the dash? And if I can what spit can I put it? It’s a 70 duster with a 360 and I’m putting a edelbrock 1406 carb on it
 
It's so easy to connect it to the blue wire discussed above. Put a 10A fuse inline in the wire running to the choke just to be safe. These chokes don't draw much power.
 
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