bamamopar
Well-Known Member
So I'm ordering shock for the dart. I'm either going with ss shocks or c body. Which are the best?
super stock shocks vs c body shocks?
- Thread starter bamamopar
- Start date
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Warning! 71 Imperial shocks are not correct! The top is bushed like a B body for a bolt. Read this on a earlier post and ordered, its a nogo. Got a set NIB if anybody needs em. :banghead: #-o
I can back this up... I found in a search that Gabriel 81091 was the right shock and it might be length wise yet you will have to modify the top bushing to make it work. Not worth it IMO like the KYB KG5413 where you have to remove the metal sleeve then somehow remove enough bushing to work with additional washers as the bushing is not the same size as the OEM ones. Or you can remove the metal sleeve and bushing then try to take your old bushing with placing it in your new shock... Yet a lot of work and I hope the Mopar Drag shocks don't require this to work.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
I got the Mopar shocks for use with SS springs, and they fell right in. Buy right the first time.
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68dodge
Well-Known Member
Had troubles with the Mopar shocks, they would not let the S/S springs work right. My car would not lift off the line and traction was bad. Went with Competition Engineering adjustble shocks, never had a problem.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I bought the imperial shocks, back when I thot I was going to run the 002-003 springs. I don`t remember having that much trouble changing them over. Still have THEM NEW AND UNUSED-----
Right. Sounds like a few of us do.
I agree whole heartily if folks knew which was exactly correct without requiring modification to work. On Mancini's site it doesn't mention anything about the KYB's needing to be modified and only states they will work with the super stock springs. Then the Imperial shocks I came across when searching the forums/boards. Again not super clear in my searching that modifying would be required as well. If I had known for sure I would have just ordered the Mopar ones right off the bat. Like so many other things I have learned so far with these older cars another lesson learned and wanted to share so hopefully others will come across this and be aware as well.
383Scampman
Well-Known Member
Purchased Monro-matic and they fell in . I don't know they perform and I'm not going to spend $$$ until I'm sure they don't function properly . I'll give you the part # if you want to try them .
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
My perception is that any OEM style shocks are usually too soft for drag racing. The harder a car leaves, the stiffer the rear shocks need to be to help control leaf spring action/wrap-up, even SS springs. Technology (HP, torque, converters, etc.) has changed a lot since Imperial, truck, HD OEM, etc. shocks were originally recommended. I tried the Mopar 4-speed drag shocks on my footbrake Dart Sport when I first got it. Under certain conditions, it actually wheel-hopped pretty badly with 002/003 SS springs! With subsequent Comp. Engineering and later Rancho 5/9 way shocks, it would spin if track prep wasn't as good, but it never wheel-hopped again.
famous bob
mopar misfit
first time I`ve ever heard of s/s springs wheel hopping. We used to run 002/003 springs on a hemi belvedere and no pinion snubber at all, it tore the snubbers up anyway. Makes me think u had the Mexican springs , wrong springs or another problem. You couldn`t get much more wrong than the 00 springs on a 3600 something pound b body. They worked excellent .
Where? I was not aware the MP shocks were even made anymore.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician
Got mine from Jeg's.
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
I got the car as an uncompetitive NHRA Stocker that the owner built from scratch but gave up on (Couldn't run the index.). I started racing it in IHRA in 1999 and it probably had the older springs then. Over the years I have changed the leaf springs several times as they wore out, which included original and Mexican SS springs. No performance difference, except for how long they lasted before sagging too much. My car weighed anywhere from 3,500 - 3,700+ lbs as I changed classes and/or IHRA changed the crate motor HP factor. The wheel hop, which I attributed to soft shock extension and compression, may have been without a pinion snubber, but, either way, it surprised me too. It's always hooked well otherwise, with track prep being the biggest influence. As described earlier, shocks were the only other changes in the suspension. Each car can be different, so never say never.
On a related note.....I also felt that the original recommendation of a lot of rear body separation was also obsolete. So that should and could be controlled, with the help of stiffer shocks. (Balanced with proper front shocks.)
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