HELP!!! COOLANT WATERFALL!!

Does a Non smog head fit a 1974 stock 318?

  • Yes

    Votes: 12 100.0%
  • No

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    12
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Tyshiz

not fast enuff if it dont make ur butthole pucker
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My intake manifold is pouring coolant out the top passenger rear of the intake mani... I swapped heads and now it seems i have an extra hole???????????? I didnt change the intake or even remove it. Only the passenger head. Im not missing bolts. I swear there was only one bolt under the coil! What is going on?!?!
 
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I’ve never pulled a head and left the intake on. That’s a strange way of doing it.
 
those steel intake gaskets are pretty much a one and done dealio. did you tirqhw them down 35 ft'lbs? Any rear china wall dowel that didnt get seated?
 
I’ve never pulled a head and left the intake on. That’s a strange way of doing it.
Not bad, just have to crack the other sides bolts. If you dont get the head pushed up enough to sit onto the dowels youll get a flood.
 
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those steel intake gaskets are pretty much a one and done dealio. did you tirqhw them down 35 ft'lbs? Any rear china wall dowel that didnt get seated?
There are what appear to be 2 bolt holes next to each other under the coil and next to the choke control. But i only pulled one bolt from the area... GUYS ITS A NON SMOG HEAD ON A 1974 SMOG MOTOR. Just want to make sure people see this fact. stock manifold and everything. I figured the only difference in the heads was the exhuast holes for smog (which were plugged on my old head intentionally).... but still doesnt explain the coolant. I spent a week doing this job little by little because of back issues. Now i deal with this.
 
Hmm, I never did it without releasing the other side. You had to really get the head up and under the intake to seat the dowel, like 35 ft/lbs tight......Im thinking the steel gaskets just never recovered. Id remove the intake and get some $12 MLS intake gaskets, Felpro or similar. Then retorque the head (Gasket is probably still good) and then retorque the intake int he proper "center out" pattern. Thats a pretty important torque sequence.
 
Understood on torque sequence. I need to stress to you this other hole. Im going out side to get a pic. It is where the coolant is coming from. Literally i started filling coolant at the rad and it started coming out that hole.
 
Not bad, just have to crack the other sides bolts. If you dont get the head pushed up enough to sit onto the dowels youll get a flood.
How can you install heads and not realize its not on a dowel? The head wouldnt tighten down if a dowel was in the way. I have another post about heads on here if people want to see whats been said on those
 
The other hole is a none issue, at the choke house, that plate has been retained with just one bolt hole since the early 70s, and now serves just as a locator.
The rear of the intake is dry, the water stops when it hits the intake. You can drill thru the bottom of those holes and just find air; no water there.

If water came out that hole beside the carb where the choke plate sits,or if it came out any hole on the intake, besides the T-stat holes which occasionally go into the water jacket,or the sensor holes;then it came from inside the plenum, and something is seriously wrong with your new head.... or the install.
I agree that the intake may not have been sealed to the head and water trickled into the plenum from one or more intake ports.

To get that head onto the dowel properly, with the intake still on, wouldda probably taken a fair bit of force, and I dunno how the intake gasket would have endured that, so I vote take the intake off. You might as well clean out the EGR chamber while it's off. You gotta seal the corners with RTV anyway.

Flip the head over and check the deck at the dowel hole. If you put 85/95# on those bolts with the dowel hole not on the dowel, you'll see the damage.
 
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The other hole is a none issue, the rear of the intake is dry, the water stops when it hits the intake. You can drill thru the bottom of that hole and just find air; no water there.
Tell that to the coolant that pours out.
 
U guys are great for helping
 
Well i need to do the distributor but ive never done one... only cap n rotor. Dist is all rusty and probably wasnt helping the misfire. I dont have a place to work on it. Its 15f degrees here. It took me a week to take apart what i did the first time. I got some back problems make me unable to do shtuff sometimes.
 
Hmmmm sounds like that 2nd hole goes down into a coolant passage across the back of the manifold but there was not coolant back there previously. Any chance the old manifold gasket was set up to block flow to that back passage in the manifold?

Or, the abnormal repair sequence put stress on the back rear of the manifold and resulted in a cracked manifold back in that area; the crack could have gone from the coolant passage and into the extra hole.

I have serious doubts that you will get the intake and head gaskets sealed right if you don't remove the intake and then start with fresh gaskets. And if the old gasket was not blocking the coolant, then I'd be inspecting that manifold carefully. Sorry....
 
And sorry for the back issues.. this stuff is NOT light and doing it over a fender is just that much worse.
 
You can pull the intake with the distributor in place. It is just less in the way to remove it.
 
Im looking at the manifold side in the pics of the head..... there are only bolt holes. These are the only 2 options for stock heads.
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Check your plenum floor; for the coolant to come out that hole, the liquid level would have to be up under the carb, and your plenum floor will either show it, or taste like coolant. If your floor and runners, do not have signs of coolant on them then IDK.
 
I definitely dont have the energy to keep working in this weather. If this wasnt the only car i had, i would let it sit till spring. If only that shop hadnt ffffffd me over on the headgasket job. I had them do it because i couldnt. And now here i am doing their work over. They also flipped my rocker arm shafts. Holes go down.
 
Could be a hair line fracture in the intake? I've had bad luck with the plan stamped steel gaskets for the intake .they make the felpro permatex coated gasket but it only fits 340-360 because the ports are too big for 273-318 . I had to improvise: plan stamped steel gaskets I buy a large tub of permatex heavy duty black RTV sealent and the small tub of permatex sealent only for to seal against radiator fluid comes in a small gray tub at O'reallys. I clean gasket surfaces and apply a thin layer of RTV across the gasket surface one side except for around the coolent holes on the steel gasket then apply the coolent resistant sealent around the coolent hole on gasket on one side and leave it sit for a full day .Then flip it over and repeat process on other side till both gaskets and both sides are covered and fully dry! Then before I sit them on the gasket surface of the head I apply a thin layer of the same sealents on the gasket surfaces on the intake. I just got done with my 318 build and no leaks . I did follow the numbered bolt diagram for the intake but did them in stages till it equal the final torque spec number. I also made sure the holes on the gasket surfaces front and the back of the intake where the cork gaskets go : one that faces the bypass hose and the other next to the distributor was deep enough for the role pins that stick up out of the block to fully engaged when the intake sits completely down after being torqued down so far no leaks. If it's a hole you'll have to tap it with threads use some speaker and find a bolt to use to seal it off.
 
Probably a stupid question, but is the freeze plug on the back of the head there and intact?
 
Probably a stupid question, but is the freeze plug on the back of the head there and intact?
Yup. My first thought too. Looking at that and checking the bolt hole back there is when i saw the extra hole.
 
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