Magnum 318 info

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John Cailey

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Got a chance to buy a stock 318 and trans out of a 96 Dakota truck. No clue on ether. Assume it is a magnum motor with a roller cam and an electronic 4 spd O.D. trans? Is this a good block to build from? Looking to make a very mild street set for my 74 Duster to replace the existing / 6. Can get the engine and trans for $500. Was running when it was pulled a short while ago from the Dakota. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, John
 
Got a chance to buy a stock 318 and trans out of a 96 Dakota truck. No clue on ether. Assume it is a magnum motor with a roller cam and an electronic 4 spd O.D. trans? Is this a good block to build from? Looking to make a very mild street set for my 74 Duster to replace the existing / 6. Can get the engine and trans for $500. Was running when it was pulled a short while ago from the Dakota. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks, John
For that price it should be a 360. I’d wait for one to show up, unless you’re in a hurry to spend money or help a friend out.

Jake
 
If it is engine and transmission, in good running/shifting condition, I myself would take it at that price, Magnum or not. You can always swap a Magnum head onto it easy enough.
 
I don't know depending on mileage and running condition "around here" that would not be bad for engine + trans. BUT the trans is likely to be electronic (44/ 46RE instead of RH) and that means you need an EFI computer to operate it. "I think" I've found out there's a manual valve body conversion available, so there is that. Plus it needs to be a 2wd trans, not 4x4 if you actually intend to use it. On top of that using an OD auto requires at the very least serious crossmember surgery and if it's the A518/ 727 based there are assertations you need to cut the floor some

What are your transmission intentions?

Just so you know, the 5.9/ 360 in my 01 2500 has a factory auto, and the crank IS NOT DRILLED at all for a stick. I was thinking of swapping a 4/ 5 speed stick into it, AKA NP435 4 speed or NV4500 5 speed. I'd have to drill the crank

If you plan on running an older 904/ 727 auto that will bolt right up, but there's another thread on here "troubles with the flexplate."
 
Ok, went over and looked at it - and bought it for $400. Magnum 318 came out of a 96 Dakota 4X4. Trans (47RE) has a fresh rebuild and new convertor ( never been bolted up ). I would like to use this trans with the engine as it has OD, albeit electronic. Engine is complete with computer and all wiring ( haven't looked in to condition of computer or wiring though ). Engine has TPI and a Holley throttle body. Pulled the pan and it is clean inside the motor. Engine is complete water pump to flex plate - exhaust manifolds, starter, alternator, didn't see the P/S pump, but might be there? No mileage history on the motor ( doesn't look like it has ever been apart ), so it will come down for inspection and probable rebuild. No problem if I have to fab up engine / trans cross member mounts. Tunnel clearance might be an issue, but don't know yet. Haven't decided if I want to go with factory electronics or go old school on the motor. If not, still gotta control the trans electronically for the OD.
 
4x4 makes the tranny more difficult to use. Are you planning on using the EFI set up, or are you going carb?
 
4x4 makes the tranny more difficult to use. Are you planning on using the EFI set up, or are you going carb?
Haven't decided on that yet. I will have a clearer picture on the EFI / carb thing once I lay out the wiring and see how complete / incomplete / chopped up it is. If I go with the existing EFI on the engine, I will have to add a pump to the tank along with associated plumbing ( could be bone yard items ). I was told that the Dakota truck was a 4X4, but I don't see any transfer case port or adaptor on the tailshaft?? Am I missing something?
 
Haven't decided on that yet. I will have a clearer picture on the EFI / carb thing once I lay out the wiring and see how complete / incomplete / chopped up it is. If I go with the existing EFI on the engine, I will have to add a pump to the tank along with associated plumbing ( could be bone yard items ). I was told that the Dakota truck was a 4X4, but I don't see any transfer case port or adaptor on the tailshaft?? Am I missing something?

Simple........if the transmission has a slip yoke......it's 2wd, assuming the transfer case is not attached, which you should know?

If the trans has a bolt flange at the rear, that is where the transfer case bolts, therefore 4x4

My Dakota junkyard.............."Mini white whale" Junk engine/ trans/ transfer going into the mini whale. You can see here the transfer with a baggie wrapped around the slip yoke, and the flange ahead of the transfer where it mates to the transmission

If 2x2 the big flange at the rear of the main case is replaced by the tapered 2x2 OD and tailshaft, again, with a sliip yoke connection

img_1077cs-jpg.jpg
 
This is a 2wd OD A518 in my 3/4 ton. Notice that just rear of the pan, the entire tail is the OD, tapered, and back to the slip yoke

img_0958-jpg.jpg


Best I can do, tonight

img_0897cs-jpg.jpg
 
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Ok now look at the drivers side the two electrical connectors. I can't see. The lower one with three pins is your neutral/ reverse switch. What we need to know is how many pins are on the higher placed connector? THREE means you have the earlier hydraulic transmission (R46H) and more means you have the newer computer controlled "Electric" (R46E). The E will need a computer to control it if you try and use that one Either one is gonna require surgery to get into a A body tunnel. The OD is the problem
 
Ok now look at the drivers side the two electrical connectors. I can't see. The lower one with three pins is your neutral/ reverse switch. What we need to know is how many pins are on the higher placed connector? THREE means you have the earlier hydraulic transmission (R46H) and more means you have the newer computer controlled "Electric" (R46E). The E will need a computer to control it if you try and use that one Either one is gonna require surgery to get into a A body tunnel. The OD is the problem
Upper connecter has 8 pins.
 
It looks like a 2wd 96 up 42RE.

It's an RE but it's a 46. The 42 is a 904/ A500 that is a 727/ A518

Here are some good photos of the two I swiped off the www. One is the smaller 904 based/ A500, the other is the larger 727 based A518 "42, 44" 4 means 4 speed, the 2, 4, 6 7 is torque level, R is Rear wheel drive, and H is hydraulic, E is electronic

42re46re.jpg


42re46re2.jpg
 
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It's an RE but it's a 46. The 42 is a 904/ A500 that is a 727/ A518

Here are some good photos of the two I swiped off the www. One is the smaller 904 based/ A500, the other is the larger 727 based A518 "42, 44" 4 means 4 speed, the 2, 4, 6 7 is torque level, R is Rear wheel drive, and H is hydraulic, E is electronic

View attachment 1715282052

View attachment 1715282053
So, can I use this trans in a non-computer controlled engine environment - or shift it electrically - with a manual switch? Tunnel mod for the OD is not a problem. I have the computer ( marked 96 Dakota 4X4 ? ) and associated wiring, but the wiring is pretty hacked up. Considering running the engine as a non-computer engine, but with the electronic trans so I can have OD.
 
Upper connecter has 8 pins.

It's a 46RE then. (And it has the bulge out where the stick goes) and the 42R's don't.
42's are 904 variants and 46's are the 727 version.

So, can I use this trans in a non-computer controlled engine environment - or shift it electrically - with a manual switch? Tunnel mod for the OD is not a problem. I have the computer ( marked 96 Dakota 4X4 ? ) and associated wiring, but the wiring is pretty hacked up. Considering running the engine as a non-computer engine, but with the electronic trans so I can have OD.

No you cant use it without a computer and all the associated speed sensors and stuff unless you buy a trans controller (which are available)
Tunnel mods are pretty extensive for the 46's and up.
 
I have yet to find a stand alone controller for an RE. Everything I have ever heard of turned out to be vaporware.

The guys at RaceMagnum.com actually spend a bunch of time figuring out how to splice into the factory harness so they could run the EFI using MegaSquirt but still keep the OEM PCM so it would control the trans.

Just doesn't seem like it should be that hard, even remember reading about a guy that was going to build his own, but have yet to see anything materialize.

So, unless you run the factory EFI, I would sell that to someone who needs it for his broken down truck and go look for an RH.
 
Transmission Controllers, PCS Simple Shift, PCS, Compushift, 727 to 518, 727 to A518, 727 to 48RH, 4L60E TCM, 4L80E TCM, 4R70W TCM, 4R100 TCM

PATC Transmission Controller Archives - PATC

I have seen where some used the GM 4L60E controller on the 46RE and said it worked well.
Seems like it would since they have the same functions, but just a different connector.

Sure would be a lot simpler to use a 42RH though, since a lot less tunnel mods.
I got mine out of a front crashed 96 Dakota 2wd at the local U Pull it for 125 and that included the converter and larger 7290 yoke.
Then I got the conversion U joint to adapt the bigger yoke to the A body driveline yoke.
 
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Transmission Controllers, PCS Simple Shift, PCS, Compushift, 727 to 518, 727 to A518, 727 to 48RH, 4L60E TCM, 4L80E TCM, 4R70W TCM, 4R100 TCM

PATC Transmission Controller Archives - PATC

Pretty sure this was the place that used to sell some pressure switches and such to control an RH, similar to what you did. If correct, I would guess that is what the "727 to 518" topic would cover.

Didn't see anything that would control an RE, though.

I have seen where some used the GM 4L60E controller on the 46RE and said it worked well.
Seems like it would since they have the same functions, but just a different connector.

Love to see something on that. Not casting doubt, just never heard of it. That would be the first viable solution beyond running the OEM PCM as a TCM. Doesn't seem unreasonable to think they have some similarities, but I don't know enough about it to do anymore than guess.

Had a buddy that wanted to use a RE in a swap because it was shorter than an RH and moved the TC closer to the motor, making the rear driveshaft easier to fabricate. I spend a fair amount of time looking for a controller for him and came up with what-if's, maybe's and "I'm going to...", but never anything better than vaporware. Doesn't mean my Google-fu was strong enough to make it an impossibility, just sharing my experience.
 
As I said earlier if you are willing to manual shift "MVB" I believe you can do that with the RE. But you are right. I don't know of any stand alone controllers......at least nothing reasonable
 
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