So Many Rabbit Holes...

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Jesus Chrysler

Forgiving Sins Against Mopar Since 1983
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Location
Ontario, California
Lately it's been hard to think of a direction for my 67 Barracuda that doesn't turn into a several thousand dollar endeavor.

Example:

I would like to purchase some new wheels and tires for the car. Problem is, it's a SBP car. So now I'm into new rear axles and brakes all the way around. I'm in it for close to $3k before I even buy wheels. While I'm tearing everything apart, I might as well do suspension, right? Blamo, there goes another $2k+.

All said and done, I'll be pushing $10k on tires, wheels, suspension and brakes. This is actually the cheapest rabbit hole I have, the engine/drivetrain and bodywork rabbit holes are both a down payment on a house. I used to think guns were an expensive hobby, LOL!

Sometimes I have to dial back the daydreaming and just focus on the little things that I need to do to make it driveable and just enjoy the car for what it is. I ought to be happy just driving a big block a body with a 4 speed! :steering:
 
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Yup, that about sums up my Mopar experience so far. Even the simplest things turn into an expensive nightmare. There's always some road block that sends you down a different path...and at the end of that path is a rabid donkey looking to kick your nuts in, and steal your wallet. If you really want to reach the pinnacle of frustration start researching g3 hemi swaps. I swear Chrysler goes out of their way to make things difficult.
 
You're supposed to be able to wave your magic Jesus wand.
 
Just get it up and running. Make it drivable and reliable. Then enjoy!

The wife has speced a few upgrades that will total around 10K. And thus I said, “Excellent idea! Let me know when you save up the money.” Until then, we are driving the car all over the place. 4 wheel drums, no overdrive. And we’re having a ball. Just driving a little slower & braking a bit earlier.
 
You're supposed to be able to wave your magic Jesus wand.

My Child...
Just get it up and running. Make it drivable and reliable. Then enjoy!

The wife has speced a few upgrades that will total around 10K. And thus I said, “Excellent idea! Let me know when you save up the money.” Until then, we are driving the car all over the place. 4 wheel drums, no overdrive. And we’re having a ball. Just driving a little slower & braking a bit earlier.

It runs and drives now but it definitely needs a few essentials to fit the reliable/not rolling probably cause bill. It's just not as sexy to daydream about fixing the brake light and exhaust leak!
 
My Child...


It runs and drives now but it definitely needs a few essentials to fit the reliable/not rolling probably cause bill. It's just not as sexy to daydream about fixing the brake light and exhaust leak!

Sexy? Isn't that off limits for you?
 
and just think youll never recoup the cash you dump into it. im in the same boat for the umpteenth time
 
"Just" get a 66/67 B body 8 3/4 axle.

They can be had complete, without a sure grip for under $250.

There will be debate about moving the spring perches, but it will install as is.
Even if you pay to have them moved it should be no more than another $100 or so.

You will then have a better and more easily upgraded axle and more importantly, big bolt pattern.

A front disk conversion in the future can net you big pattern there.
You can get 85% of what you need for a disk conversion from a mid 80's 5th Ave.
(get the rear wheel cylinders from the same car so the proportioning stays the same)
This should also be under $250 from a u-pull.
 
I'm in the exact same boat. '67 Barracuda, 400 4spd. I've been looking into exactly the same thing. Best deal I found is Cass at DrDiff. Front disc brakes with everything you need is about $800. $295 for new BBP rear axles with green bearings, add $60 - $120 for Precision or Timken bearing (respectively), plus $350 for new larger rear drums to work with the new axles. Totals about $1500 and then need to get new wheels and tires. He offers a new front suspension rebuild kit for a little over $300.

That being said,... he seems to be the most reasonable for the whole package and Cass gets great reviews. I have gotten a lot of stuff from him.
 
I'm in the exact same boat. '67 Barracuda, 400 4spd. I've been looking into exactly the same thing. Best deal I found is Cass at DrDiff. Front disc brakes with everything you need is about $800. $295 for new BBP rear axles with green bearings, add $60 - $120 for Precision or Timken bearing (respectively), plus $350 for new larger rear drums to work with the new axles. Totals about $1500 and then need to get new wheels and tires. He offers a new front suspension rebuild kit for a little over $300.

That being said,... he seems to be the most reasonable for the whole package and Cass gets great reviews. I have gotten a lot of stuff from him.

Any time we shop the internet for parts it can stack up really fast.
Patience, Craigslist, investigation and the pick a part yards can save tons of money.
Plus it helps a LOT if a person doesn't have to hire someone to do everything.
YY1 hit the nail on the head about upgrading without killing the bank account.

Examples would be getting brand new large BP drums on a rear end someone was giving away to get it out of their yard.
Or an Edelbrock aluminum intake out of the pick a part for 60 bucks (with the perfectly good Eddie carb on it) for 100 total.
Or a guaranteed good 42RH overdrive trans for 125 (with the converter and large yoke)
Or a nice condition used Hurst shifter in the original box for 60.
 
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Brin
Lately it's been hard to think of a direction for my 67 Barracuda that doesn't turn into a several thousand dollar endeavor.

Example:

I would like to purchase some new wheels and tires for the car. Problem is, it's a SBP car. So now I'm into new rear axles and brakes all the way around. I'm in it for close to $3k before I even buy wheels. While I'm tearing everything apart, I might as well do suspension, right? Blamo, there goes another $2k+.

All said and done, I'll be pushing $10k on tires, wheels, suspension and brakes. This is actually the cheapest rabbit hole I have, the engine/drivetrain and bodywork rabbit holes are both a down payment on a house. I used to think guns were an expensive hobby, LOL!

Sometimes I have to dial back the daydreaming and just focus on the little things that I need to do to make it driveable and just enjoy the car for what it is. I ought to be happy just driving a big block a body with a 4 speed! :steering:
Bring it to me. I'm sure I can do that job for under 10K!
 
One thing I forgot to mention is that Dr Diff does offer the front brake kit with small bolt pattern rotors. That would allow you to start the conversion without changing everything to big bolt pattern up front, then just replace the rotors to BBP rotors when you do the rear.

I thought about doing it that way to break up some of the costs. Only problem I saw was that the disc brake conversion pushes the front wheels out 3/4" per side. With my backspacing on my current wheel, I would be getting pretty close to the wheel well lip. I don't know what the backspacing is on my current rallye wheels (haven't had a chance to measure), but it looks like it would be close. Cass recommends a 4.25 - 4.5" backspacing with the conversion.
 
One thing I forgot to mention is that Dr Diff does offer the front brake kit with small bolt pattern rotors. That would allow you to start the conversion without changing everything to big bolt pattern up front, then just replace the rotors to BBP rotors when you do the rear.

I thought about doing it that way to break up some of the costs. Only problem I saw was that the disc brake conversion pushes the front wheels out 3/4" per side. With my backspacing on my current wheel, I would be getting pretty close to the wheel well lip. I don't know what the backspacing is on my current rallye wheels (haven't had a chance to measure), but it looks like it would be close. Cass recommends a 4.25 - 4.5" backspacing with the conversion.
I have the later disc brakes on my 69 Dart with LBP rallye wheels with no problem.
 
for example... Not mine but looks decent for the price in the pics...
Notice how clean it is, especially interior views. It runs, drives, stops. Every looker wants to get in it. No one has questioned what suspension or brakes it has under it.
If you just have to have aftermarket wheels, there are plenty of them that will bolt to your OEM bolt pattern. Just remember you can't see them from the drivers seat.
 
I learned many years ago that the car hobby was a great way to spend a lot of money you'll never get back. My "car guy" friends around here have a saying... we build 'em for 40 grand, and sell 'em for $17.5.... But the enjoyment of the build, and driving my finished creation has always made it more or less worthwhile. I look at it this way, some folks spend money on gambling, lavish vacations, expensive jewelry, or what have you. I spend it on cars and motorcycles instead.
 
I got my bbp braks from white pink nitro for like 200 bucks?
My rear disks I ordered from summit for 3 something. (Also BBP)

new wheels from Jegs, 150 each
.
New tires from summit (now this part hurt a little) 500 for the rear set and 320 for fronts.


How the hell did you end up at 10 grand?
 
Lately it's been hard to think of a direction for my 67 Barracuda that doesn't turn into a several thousand dollar endeavor.

Example:

I would like to purchase some new wheels and tires for the car. Problem is, it's a SBP car. So now I'm into new rear axles and brakes all the way around. I'm in it for close to $3k before I even buy wheels. While I'm tearing everything apart, I might as well do suspension, right? Blamo, there goes another $2k+.

All said and done, I'll be pushing $10k on tires, wheels, suspension and brakes. This is actually the cheapest rabbit hole I have, the engine/drivetrain and bodywork rabbit holes are both a down payment on a house. I used to think guns were an expensive hobby, LOL!

Sometimes I have to dial back the daydreaming and just focus on the little things that I need to do to make it driveable and just enjoy the car for what it is. I ought to be happy just driving a big block a body with a 4 speed! :steering:

I think stage 1 should be just do the minimum it takes to make it drivable, with whatever engine/trans it came with, sbp steel wheels (blasted/painted with chrome lugs looks good and is cheap), stock axle and suspension. Then just save up and do one area at a time as you can afford it.

When you're doing the suspension, buy a setup from another car and rebuild that, swap it on when the time comes. That way you can take your time, blast all the pieces, paint or powdercoat, carefully get it all pre-assembled so you can just slide it under the car and do the swap over a weekend.

Try to keep it running/driving as much as possible. Nothing kills motivation faster than a non-running car that's been sitting for a long time.
 
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As long as we're talking about 5th Ave parts cars...

...the 8 1/4 from that car will also work, and get you BBP, but those perches are too far apart to fit like a 66/67 B does.

If you can find a whole 5th Ave cheap.....

You also get all sorts of things as a bonus from under dash light sockets, wiring connectors, headlight switch, and steering column hardware, to factory Moapr made in USA nuts and bolts, especially the odd ball "X and 3/4 inch" lengths.


...and 15x7 BBP steelies!

...oh, and roller LA 318 and lockup A999!
 
I had an 8 1/4 held up nicely with my 4 speed and Stroker motor. Feeling it was going to break one day I sold it to build an 8 3/4 489 case that only lasted about 20 passes. I still do wonder if I ever needed to change that rear end? In the end I did build a Dana 60 but still that 8 1/4 did never let me down. I bought it from a friend who got it out of the junkyard and sold it to me for $100. It was out of a Dakota and he just cut the perches off and put them on the bottom. I found a guy on eBay and turns out he was local selling a Sure Grip for it and he installed it for a total of $200. I had $300 into that rear end. And the funny part is I used the drums backing plates for the 8 3/4 and currently have them on my Dana 60..
there's a lot of money to be saved on a lot of stuff you're talking about and some consider that the fun part...
Also all three of those rear ends are ebody width. This really fits the bill for the $200 rims and tires I bought off of Craigslist that came off a 2005 Hemi Magnum. I had to get smaller front tires and also I used originally adapters for the front but then after a while went ahead and got the center's machined out a little so they'll fit over the old style front brake hubs. I guess like everybody's trying to say where there's a will there's a way...
Amen....
 
The 65-67 B body 8 3/4 is one inch wider than an A body axle.
It's the closest fit there is without cutting and welding.

The F/M/J 8 1/4 is IIRC not quite an inch wider than the 65-67 B.
It's the next closest fit for an A.

E body is significantly wider, almost as wide as 71-74 B or C body!
 
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Lately it's been hard to think of a direction for my 67 Barracuda that doesn't turn into a several thousand dollar endeavor.

Example:

I would like to purchase some new wheels and tires for the car. Problem is, it's a SBP car. So now I'm into new rear axles and brakes all the way around. I'm in it for close to $3k before I even buy wheels. While I'm tearing everything apart, I might as well do suspension, right? Blamo, there goes another $2k+.

All said and done, I'll be pushing $10k on tires, wheels, suspension and brakes. This is actually the cheapest rabbit hole I have, the engine/drivetrain and bodywork rabbit holes are both a down payment on a house. I used to think guns were an expensive hobby, LOL!

Sometimes I have to dial back the daydreaming and just focus on the little things that I need to do to make it driveable and just enjoy the car for what it is. I ought to be happy just driving a big block a body with a 4 speed! :steering:
You'll have that. As long as it's running make improvements as time and money allow. Start buying parts and then attack the project until it's done.
 
The 65-67 B body 8 3/4 is one inch wider than an A body axle.
It's the closest ft there is without cutting and welding.

The F/M/J 8 1/4 is IIRC not quite an inch wider than the 65-67 B.
It's the next closest fit for an A.

E body is significantly wider, almost as wide as 71-74 B or C body!
Your right C,E, truck and van are the widest. I have a bunch of those.
 
I had an 8 1/4 held up nicely with my 4 speed and Stroker motor. Feeling it was going to break one day I sold it to build an 8 3/4 489 case that only lasted about 20 passes. I still do wonder if I ever needed to change that rear end? In the end I did build a Dana 60 but still that 8 1/4 did never let me down. I bought it from a friend who got it out of the junkyard and sold it to me for $100. It was out of a Dakota and he just cut the perches off and put them on the bottom. I found a guy on eBay and turns out he was local selling a Sure Grip for it and he installed it for a total of $200. I had $300 into that rear end. And the funny part is I used the drums backing plates for the 8 3/4 and currently have them on my Dana 60..
there's a lot of money to be saved on a lot of stuff you're talking about and some consider that the fun part...
Also all three of those rear ends are ebody width. This really fits the bill for the $200 rims and tires I bought off of Craigslist that came off a 2005 Hemi Magnum. I had to get smaller front tires and also I used originally adapters for the front but then after a while went ahead and got the center's machined out a little so they'll fit over the old style front brake hubs. I guess like everybody's trying to say where there's a will there's a way...
Amen....

I have a 7.25 one legger in the car right now which is ok for the high gearing and auto trans BUT one of the local guys has a 8.25 Detroit locker A body width in his car and is going with an 8.75 but doesn't have time to do it.
We agreed that I would do the assembly and swap of the 8.75 in trade for the 8.25.
So a day or so of my time gets me a Detroit locker 8.25 with 3.55 gears.

AND I'll already have the tools out to do mine.:D
I think I can do both cars in a weekend.
 
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