Lower Cost Cam for LA318 part 2 :

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high.rev.trev

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Probably Common knowledge & been threaded B4 but if anyone with a stock LA318 is thinking about a Camshaft upgrade. 1 I've found that works well for a Std 318 is the early Std 2bbl 360ci SB Cam. Its cheap at RockAuto.com c/o Enginetech (see pic) & at 203°/203°/110°LCA, its warmer than the pedestrian 181°/192°/109° LCA std 318ci & at $58 & change + a t/chain & lifters you can't go wrong. Even pull a good used combo out if a good running 360ci.
Pop on a Holley 2bbl Economaster with its bigger venturies for free'er breathing, or bolt on a 340/360 dual plane manifold & your choice of 4bbl & you've really woken the old girl up: I've also found they like the older now 4bbl Economaster 450cfm Mech secondary, both power & retains gd throttle response.

Apologies if been covered before ( don't be confused with the early OEM 4bbl cam 210°/219°/115°LCA - its a bit much for the 318 & the 115° LCA you wait forever for the power to come on).
Just my 2 coins worth for a budget/guy with a family on a tight project budget; team with duals & pair glasspacks & quickened dist advance curve & you've got a sharp running 318 WITHOUT pulling the heads or sending you broke: the boneyard may have most of what you need, the cast iron 4bbl manifold is heavy but on a budget works well, even stepping up to factory thermoquad if liked ( although a Q-jet carb gives best throttle response).
Cheers Trev.

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PS isn't it fairly OBVIOUS THE TOPIC IS ABOUT CAM & CAMSHAFT ? , WHICH THE HEADER WORDING I'VE FOUND CAN'T BE ALTERED/UPDATED.
THANKS.
 
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You may want to check your thread title... sorry OT
What's wrong with it other than the word "Can" which %&#& AUTOCOMPLETE CHANGES TO every time after the word 'CAM' is typed. AFTER posting. ??

I'm starting to lose interest around here...

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You are on the right track
but whose 360 cam? and that cam grind is 50 years old so it does leave a lot on the table
get a Elgin Industries catalog and/ or go online- lots of cam choices- mostly oldies but goodies but cheap if you shop around\
we used to be able to buy these "Detroit" cams for less than the cost of a new billit
the quality is excellent
agree about the 340 cam in a 318 unless you like to drive Dynaflow style with converter and gears
you have to rev it up to make it work but reving it up does not really work because of the heads- etc etc
Actually a regrind is not a bad idea (maybe better) if you have a knowledgeable MOPAR cam grinder around
problem the wide LCA of the 340/ 360HP cam limits what lobe you can put on it
so start with a core with a LCA close to what you want
MELLING also has an extensive list as does Sealed Power- they all do and mostly they are all the same cams- Right Edelbrock
You might want to check Crane for the Old Cam Dynamics (brand) cam (later Ground in Detroit) - it used to be inexpensive
 
You are on the right track
but whose 360 cam? and that cam grind is 50 years old so it does leave a lot on the table
get a Elgin Industries catalog and/ or go online- lots of cam choices- mostly oldies but goodies but cheap if you shop around\
we used to be able to buy these "Detroit" cams for less than the cost of a new billit
the quality is excellent
agree about the 340 cam in a 318 unless you like to drive Dynaflow style with converter and gears
you have to rev it up to make it work but reving it up does not really work because of the heads- etc etc
Actually a regrind is not a bad idea (maybe better) if you have a knowledgeable MOPAR cam grinder around
problem the wide LCA of the 340/ 360HP cam limits what lobe you can put on it
so start with a core with a LCA close to what you want
MELLING also has an extensive list as does Sealed Power- they all do and mostly they are all the same cams- Right Edelbrock
You might want to check Crane for the Old Cam Dynamics (brand) cam (later Ground in Detroit) - it used to be inexpensive
Errrm, thanks for that input BUT didn't you read the WHOLE post ? It clearly states, as well as shows the Enginetech version, along with the screenshot showing both Melling (incl its alt part # too) + the Sealed Pwr version !. Sure it may be 50 years old, but so is the 'Purple' grind plenty of people still use.... & most of the brands you mention are moderately acting cams (for long life) too, apart from the Crane Blazers & some of the Can Dynamics single patterns, with their tighter lobe centers.
I think you miss the point: a low cost NEW Billet, Chrysler designed Can that's affordable & Cost effective, Elgin's are up around $89-$99+ & still not really aggressive grinds °'s per thou lift, for quieter vavletrains.
Lot to be said for OEM parts: the Chrysler engineers were a fairly clued up bunch. What else can you get for $58 @ sae 278° on both ??.
Trev
 
I see the engintech version
I usually pay around $30 for Detroit grinds
The new purple shafts are much newer but pricey
you never get more than what you pay for
I'll pass on a low lift 278 SAE (@.004 degree) cam for my builds (or 278 Crane)
for 58 dollars I'd get a regrind with the LCA where I want it, more lift- shorter duration, earlier intake close.
I like drivable torque
 
You're touting the early 360 2bbl cams and I'm assuming LAs, but your linked catalog page says for 5.9s

I thought the 2bbl 360LA cam was a 252/260/112 cam, and that one I agree makes a good low-compression smogger 318 cam (8.0/1). But IMO, hardly worth installing, unless the engine needs a cam. I sure wouldn't pull the stocker out for it.
The 252 is an instant loss of cylinder pressure from 138psi to 132,and a reduction of DCR from 7.0 to 6.8 but the worst part is a reduction of VP from 114 to 104. That's gonna hurt real bad.
My solution was 3.55s over 2.73s, and a 2800TC over an 1850; so of course that woke the teener up.But the 252 raised the power-peak about 400rpm, so that was handy. But with the stock TC and 2.73s, it was kindof a disaster. Just not as bad as bolting on X heads and slipping in a 340 cam. That was my biggest disaster ever,lol.
I'm glad it worked out for you; but I'm guessing you are close to sealevel; whereas I am at ~960 ft... So for my poor teener, that steals a bit of pressure; 127 with the 252* cam vs 133ish on the stocker.
Pressures below 140 generally suck, but by the time they drop to 127,there's no choice but to break out the bandaids of TC and gears.
In any case that free 360 2bbl cam cost me the 2800TC and a 3.55chunk with a SureGrip. So like I say; I sure wouldn't swap that 252cam in there unless; A) I already had it, and everything that is needed to install it,and; B) My engine needed a cam,and; C) and I already had the bandaids of a TC and gears;
OR D) I also pulled the heads off and machined a couple of pounds off them,lol..
 
nah he raises some important points
and what AJ says
however the stock 318, 360 or 340 cams are also long and slow but different than the one size fits all lobes
I agree that Mopar engineers knew what they were doing
but their design parameters were different- as you say longevity, low noise, and with poorer springs than we have today
and they were working with the calculators of then not the computers of now- Jerk- what's that
they were designed for the mopar lifter- which allows them to have lower forces than a chevy lobe with the same specs
remember our OP is in NZ matter of fact I have 2 NZ visitors right now
me- I'd spend the extra $100 for the Jones Motor Home Grind- shorter than the 318 at seat but over /450 lift
nothing else comes close
 
Personally, I like the 360-2bbl cam for a low buck cam upgrade in a 318.
If one were to do some easy bolt ons, headers, 4bbl, etc, and wanted a super easy low impact cam swap, it’s a good choice.
No retainer to seal issues, and even uses the same springs as the 318 cam.

If you’re pulling the timing cover to replace the timing set during your bolt ons upgrade.......the intake is off already....... you’re most of the way to a cam swap anyway.
I’d do it.
 
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post: 1972438025, member: 55054"]Personally, I like the 360-2bbl cam for a low buck cam upgrade in a 318.
If one were to do some easy bolt ons, headers, 4bbl, etc, and wanted a super easy low impact cam swap, it’s a good choice.
No retainer to seal issues, and even uses the same springs as the 318 cam.

If you’re pulling the timing cover to replace the timing set during your bolt ons upgrade.......the intake is off already....... you’re most of the way to a cam swap anyway.
I’d do it.[/QUOTE]
Agreed, Thanks.. Someone with down to earth common sense whom grasped the whole point & suggestion I was making, incl got the intake off already so why not swap it out too (which I nearly added go for the factory alloy copy of the dual plane 360 4bbl earlier too).
For the others going into extra scientific detail (& as an aside I don't see what being in NZ has anything to do with the price of apples ? ) I have 2 x Clevite & Sealed Pwr (SPD25) boxed early 360 2bbl Cams right here, that are BOTH 203°/203°/110° - DECENT Cam lift & Confirmed by the Screenshot posted 1st post: on a budget affordable.
Been Cam Dr'd too & the Lobes actually AREN'T that bad: reasonably modern acting in comparison to today's or at least the Common Melling/Edelbrock 204° Mild Cam & its 110° lobe spread is same as Comp Cams H series & is a good compromise + as above poster said & also part of my point:" no seal issue, retainer issue & same V/Springs & you could upgrade those with direct connection type over parts counter type budget stiffer replacements.


That's why for the price shown above, I suggested it...SPD25/CS665/ES665 Enginetech 203°/203°/110° (NOT 252/112° LCA grind OK ?)

Oh & PS they got men to the Moon & Back on Slide rules, no computers frequently needed.
Cheers T.
5.9 / 360 ? Who's counting ?: was off '73 year model selection: they put it there, not me but in '72 I think the Magnum 5.9 was just a twinkle in Chryslers eye :)

I've incl current EBay auctioñ & number of the manifold I found worked well, accepts both square & spread bore carbs & IF you're lucky you may even happen upon a late 318 OEM Roch Q-ject 4bbl carb to bolt on , all jetted right etc & gives best drivability, on a budget.

Now runs to the dugout: I can hear INCOMING from my lurkin' naysayers...

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Speaking directly on a simple power and mileage aspect with smooth idle and driving manner, I have to agree with this. While I myself can say with ease, cam choices are a personal thing much like the color T shirt for Saturday’s afternoons Tom foolery.

You certainly have the right stuff in mind for the thoughts on what your saying.
 
I agree that is a good cam choice for a driver. Sure there are better choices that will make more power but with more cam come more upgrades if you upgrade one you have to upgrade them all. These sort of things work in packages one is worthless without the other. For a cheap rebuild just wanting to wake up an old 2bbl engine I think this is a fantastic idea!
PS. In the last 6 months I have learned a boat load on the the whole package topic!
 
I agree that is a good cam choice for a driver. Sure there are better choices that will make more power but with more cam come more upgrades if you upgrade one you have to upgrade them all. These sort of things work in packages one is worthless without the other. For a cheap rebuild just wanting to wake up an old 2bbl engine I think this is a fantastic idea!
PS. In the last 6 months I have learned a boat load on the the whole package topic!
Thanks & that's good to hear ....+ as a PS you might find a non-running or swapped out 360 4bbl & IF. No wiped lobes on the Cam (& its the 203/203 one & not the 115LCA one) just swap eveythiing over with a fresh T/chain, Gaskets & cover seal & hopefully you'll be good to go with the $ saving for some chrome or Chocolate,Shoes & handbag to keep the other 1/2 smiling.
T.
 
Eclectic cinema ...lol

There are a few parts wholesalers that have cam n lifter kits, solid and hyd, for under 180.00, master engine kits for 400 and less, re ring...etc... for cheaper than typical vendors. Crank kits with bearings under 200.00 .
 
Eclectic cinema ...lol

There are a few parts wholesalers that have cam n lifter kits, solid and hyd, for under 180.00, master engine kits for 400 and less, re ring...etc... for cheaper than typical vendors. Crank kits with bearings under 200.00 .

Whoa hold on there! That’s expensive!
Our NZ-ender has a cam listed for $58 smackers, first post. We need that here right?!?!
 
Speaking directly on a simple power and mileage aspect with smooth idle and driving manner, I have to agree with this. While I myself can say with ease, cam choices are a personal thing much like the color T shirt for Saturday’s afternoons Tom foolery.

You certainly have the right stuff in mind for the thoughts on what your saying.
Yep, Rockauto has them for that price. Stock replacement cam. Pretty anemic!

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5576052&jsn=297
I disagree with that comment : " Pretty Anaemic " ( this time ) a Stock 318 Cam , Yes, the $58 360ci 2bbl 203°/203°/110° LCA to replace it on a budget ?? Noooo Its Much higher lift & just Eyeballing the x 2 factory Cams side by side you can obviously see for the low $ , the 360 Lobe has a lot more 'Area under the Curve' to the naked eye.
I've had experience with a few of the in-house summit Cams & while good value, most are still pretty slow acting, on a par with most Factory Cams.( you just get more duration choice & for the nontechnical: more room for confusion)

IF anyone is thinking of following *The Package* idea or swapping out their std 2bbl manifold for an alloy 4bbl, there's this tidy Holley Street Dominator on Epay closing in about a Day ( pop a complete divider of 1/8" alloy sheet below the carb dividing the plenium in half & enjoy).
Info posted.
Cheers Trev.

& for my insessant clown following me around posting poo everywhere NO WAY have I even "clearly intimated" fitting a worn out 360 camshaft : Any dead or alive '70's 360 that is still complete ripe for stripping by now would more than likely have been rebuilt and/or had the camshaft changed & a NEW billet generally outlasts the life of an engine with frequent oil changes & good quality oil.
So go stir the pot elsewhere wang-dang360..

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& for my insessant clown following me around posting poo everywhere NO WAY have I even "clearly intimated" fitting a worn out 360 camshaft : Any dead or alive '70's 360 that is still complete ripe for stripping by now would more than likely have been rebuilt and/or had the camshaft changed & a NEW billet generally outlasts the life of an engine with frequent oil changes & good quality oil.
So go stir the pot elsewhere wang-dang360..
Oh! You my *** hat friend was just doing so good on letting the ball drop back down to a normal status. I’ll bust out the downward staircase back to your level just for you. Since that is where most dirty used asswipes fall, below foot level.

There is no way I’m following you around but talk some stupid **** again and I will as not to disappoint you.

Now show me where I said that you “clearly intimated” your baseless charge. Your post was suggestive of doing so.

I also rebuke your “more area undercurve” statement. A few degrees and more lift doesn’t suggest or prove there is a greater lobe intensity underway. This coupled with your statement of the Summit cam be a lesser cam.

If such is true, please do so provide your proof!

PS, to anyone looking at the intake mentioned on e-bay, there is one for sale here in the classifieds.
 
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