Fuel Gauge question

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Hilderbrand1983

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My last two threads were monumental failures on my end, so here's hoping I get this one right the first time.

Welcome to the inside of my fuel gauge. Before disassembling my 1967 Dodge Dart 270, this gauge would work ... intermittently. Sometimes it would read with reasonable accuracy; at other times, it would read empty. When I took the car apart and dove into the dash gauges, this was what I found - a loose wire that is not making a connection. (I ever so gently moved the wire for the photo to emphasize that it is not making a connection at all.) Three questions.

1. Do I need to send this away to be rebuilt? If the repair is easy, how do I do it?
2. I will buy a new sending unit for the fuel tank (it is a necessary purchase in my case). Do I need to have the gauge calibrated, or will it read accurately without calibration?
3. Where can I get a new orange needle for the gauge? (The pic makes it appear that it only needs to be repainted, but the end is bent up pretty good and is ready to break.)

Thanks!

fuelgauge67dart.jpg
 
My last two threads were monumental failures on my end, so here's hoping I get this one right the first time.

Welcome to the inside of my fuel gauge. Before disassembling my 1967 Dodge Dart 270, this gauge would work ... intermittently. Sometimes it would read with reasonable accuracy; at other times, it would read empty. When I took the car apart and dove into the dash gauges, this was what I found - a loose wire that is not making a connection. (I ever so gently moved the wire for the photo to emphasize that it is not making a connection at all.) Three questions.

1. Do I need to send this away to be rebuilt? If the repair is easy, how do I do it?
2. I will buy a new sending unit for the fuel tank (it is a necessary purchase in my case). Do I need to have the gauge calibrated, or will it read accurately without calibration?
3. Where can I get a new orange needle for the gauge? (The pic makes it appear that it only needs to be repainted, but the end is bent up pretty good and is ready to break.)

Thanks!

View attachment 1715303632
Intermittent reading could be a bad ground. Be very careful about purchasing a new fuel sending unit. The aftermarket sending units are linear! OEM are non-linear, readings at the sending unit (with a good ground); 73 ohms at empty and 10 ohms at full.
I would have the sending unit rebuilt. Here's one rebuilder: Tri Starr Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist
Guage work can be done by: instrument-specialties.com
 
By the looks of what you have I would put a "want ad" up and someone will have one for you. Florescent orange model car paint will renew a faded needle.
 
Intermittent reading could be a bad ground. Be very careful about purchasing a new fuel sending unit. The aftermarket sending units are linear! OEM are non-linear, readings at the sending unit (with a good ground); 73 ohms at empty and 10 ohms at full.
I would have the sending unit rebuilt. Here's one rebuilder: Tri Starr Rebuilt Fuel Sending Unit Specialist
Guage work can be done by: instrument-specialties.com
Thanks, but having it rebuilt is not possible - the old one was so rusted through that much of it was gone. Whether foolishly or not, I don't know, but I threw it away more than two years ago.

EDIT: Would it be wiser to buy an NOS fuel sending unit?
 
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Bimetal beam in gauge was arrow straight when new. Heat caused it to bow moving the needle. Overheat caused the bow to remain. Can't just straighten it out and expect it to respond correctly again. What was insulation on the nichrome wire is now ashes. Needle damaged also... You don't have a core worthy of rebuild. There should be a good used fuel gauge available somewhere.
I don't believe you will find a NOS fuel sending unit. Good hunting though. Pack plenty of coin just in case.
Aftermarket fuel sending units will show full and empty. All points in between will be wrong. Meter Match module will correct some of those midpoints.
 
If you do go with instrument-specialties.com for your gauge they told me that they could make a replacement Voltmeter that would go in place of the Ammeter that looks stock. I suspect there would be a small bit of wiring to do IE tying the ammeter wires together and adding a ground for the volt meter.
 
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