Getting ready to swap a 5.7 into my 73 Dart Swinger

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I now have 5.7 hemi complete with trans wiring and computer looking for motor mounts now. I also have the rack and pinion from a 09 charger going to see if that will be usable in the future. Also looking into oil pan and pick up.

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In order to rework the wring you will need to know where c130 is I had a hard time finding it so I am posting my findings. Working the wiring harness to stand alone conversion based off of this connector pinout and pcm pinout. Also will be making some relay and fuses for power to vital components
 
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So when stripping this out of the truck I cut the bundle main harness into the firewall. is that where my c130 is? cause in the manual i can only find a c131 for 2004 ram I downloaded 2005 manual as well and found c130 pinout there. the pictures were the same for both years it shows the same image for location I shared before just no pinot under 2004 that I found. also seems like more focus should be spent on c106 and c107 reverse engineering from there? Fuse and relay 12v with key on through 130 to pcm, and test at c106 and c107? I'm going to get set up so tomorrow morning I can lay out the harness and start unwrapping it.
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Was told it was a bent valve its more like every intake pushrod and intake valve are bent
 
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Got the motor mounts in today. Oil filter block off is a must. Oil pan and pick up I can already tell are going to be an issue. Block off Plate I might get away with fabricating something simple the oil pan is going to get slaughtered and i might end up buying the 275 dollar milodon oil pan.. I need the pick up either way. Ive made great progress with the wiring. But sometimes feel like throwing in the towel on this whole thing. I did however find a place to rebuild the heads for my hemi for 350 including parts he said. ima check it out tomorrow. If you think you are more clever than most I'll tell you first hand only thing ive been able to save on this far is the wiring loom that I'm reworking and the work on the heads if that works out. Oil pan I may just luck out on as the milodon pan doesn't look to hard to replicate something similar starting with a stock truck pan, and just so happens im a fabricator/welder. I did the math in this 2260 including price paid for my 73 dart as of this moment.1100-car. 800-engine trans wiring and accessories, computers and abs module. 300- tti motor mounts. 60-for 09 charger rack and pinion just incase I'm able to work something out with that for the steering. I can get a tank from that charger for 100 so that might solce the tank amd fuel pump issue I'll run into in the future. Anyone need a stock gas tank?
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What do the pistons look like? Any contact? I can understand your frustration with the costs of doing this.
Yes there was some contact I made a video but here are some photos. Intake valves on both heads are all toast. Piston damage seems to be very little.
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This is gana take a while. I was (and still am) determined to have the stock PS and PB. So there was some major surgery with moving the brake pedal/booster. I bought a kit to build my own headers, in order to get around steering and suspension components. I have forgot what transmission you are using. If it's a modern one, there's gana be another mountain to concur but you can do this! I'm almost driving mine...

G50
 
This is gana take a while. I was (and still am) determined to have the stock PS and PB. So there was some major surgery with moving the brake pedal/booster. I bought a kit to build my own headers, in order to get around steering and suspension components. I have forgot what transmission you are using. If it's a modern one, there's gana be another mountain to concur but you can do this! I'm almost driving mine...

G50
Well thank you and I am using the modern transmission the sheet metal Fab there will be easy for me as ive done a few 50's trucks with ls swaps and can tig quite well. I actually make headers at a f e power here in corona so when that bear comes along I'll handle that Well. The crossmember for the trans worries me slightly. The body flex and drive shaft are another 2 worries if i get it driving i can take it to my second job untouchable metal work in Colton where we do full restorations. I just cant leave my car there. Im ordering a oil filter block off plate and going to try to rework a oil pan to save 250$$
 
Well thank you and I am using the modern transmission the sheet metal Fab there will be easy for me as ive done a few 50's trucks with ls swaps and can tig quite well. I actually make headers at a f e power here in corona so when that bear comes along I'll handle that Well. The crossmember for the trans worries me slightly. The body flex and drive shaft are another 2 worries if i get it driving i can take it to my second job untouchable metal work in Colton where we do full restorations. I just cant leave my car there. Im ordering a oil filter block off plate and going to try to rework a oil pan to save 250$$

Fantastic!!! You're an experienced sheetmetal worker!!! Here's what I did. Before I ever even got my Swinger I knew I was going to build my own frame rail connectors. This makes a HUGE difference in the car's stability. PLUS it creates 2 bullet-proof connecting points for your new transmission crossmember. This won't be hard for you to do at all. Go get em...
 
Fantastic!!! You're an experienced sheetmetal worker!!! Here's what I did. Before I ever even got my Swinger I knew I was going to build my own frame rail connectors. This makes a HUGE difference in the car's stability. PLUS it creates 2 bullet-proof connecting points for your new transmission crossmember. This won't be hard for you to do at all. Go get em...
Let's go!!!! The k memver was badly molested so I am looking for a stock k member or to exchange my spool mounts for biscuit style mounts since they had a 440 I guess? Anyways here with the car got the block off the trailer 1. Motor mounts have been cut and biscuit style mounts welded in. I'm now in the market for a k member good news is all stock powersteering, and tortion bars are there serious mock up is about to go into the possibility of 09 charger rack and pinion I mean ive heard of a Detroit street kit or something of the type for steering it maybe feasable to use the rack amd pinion i have. 2. I see the tranmission tunnel and there will be no problem I'll even bead roll in a lip on the new trans tunnel to fit that nicely I'll have to take a decent look at frame rail connectors but you are right that'll be easy ive even seen kits for that and have the whole stock cross member for the trans from the ram truck to work off of. Jesus this is a project but I see the light already.
 
Yes. A sure for way to tell is the motor mount style. The 73 and 75 should both be the spool type.
I'm set up to pick one up for 150 tomorrow and if not going to take a look at the 75 duster see if it is the same for sure. not fun finding this part. Also would be willing to fab something up worst comes to worst. But thats my last resort.
 
Will a v8 k member fit into my orginally slant 6 dart? With no fabrication? I have a headache and a stomache about this k frame ordeal. Also going to get some sheet metal patches ready after figuring out the dash/firewall/floorboards gage of steel. Going to fontana tomorrow to do measurements and then pick up a k frame lots info on Schumacher about the k members. Feeling in over my head cause I cant seem to moce foward with this damn car..
 
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K frames are completely interchangeable. Mounting points to the frame are the same, no matter what engine. The actual mounts welded the the k frame are what is different between /6 and V8.
 
K frames are completely interchangeable. Mounting points to the frame are the same, no matter what engine. The actual mounts welded the the k frame are what is different between /6 and V8.
Jeeze finally some good news I'm on my way to get the k member right now. Same with the camaro I lt1 swapped late last year just swapped out full k members. This dart had the 440 so i don't know if it will have any value but I'll put it together a package of all wiring some kind of ignition box and k member package set up for 440 swap. 150$ Otherwise will be trash after a few months. Again thanks for all the help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! These mopars are not easy to find parts for like my camaro and suburban. Sad that they are going to crush a 75 duster after April 2nd at my local pick a part. Anyways hopefully back on track this was only projected to take 6 months to get it strarted, rolling and into gear(vitals) Dailing in the body and final car will be about a year from that finish point. Therefore my relentless efforts for progress.
 
Update the k frame/member got re worked as anyone who knows or takes a look at there if its anything like mine quality control was non existent. The welds have porosity throughout. Poor manipulation. And ton of spatter. I wire wheeled down then used abrasives to tone down the spatter now I'm at work and going to put fillet welds all around the mounts here where the old "welds" we're. 50 bucks tomorrow gets it sand blasted in the hard to reach spots and powder coated black.
 
Heads up on pick up tube for 09. I had quite the debacle doing same thing. Mother Mopar used a pre 09 block on my 09 donor 6.1. Hence different pickup. I too had to manufacture tunnel and tranny mounts etc. I have a build thread on here 6.1 into 72 Demon. Just replaced inner fender today. It goes on and on. Total pain but should be well worth it.
 
Heads up on pick up tube for 09. I had quite the debacle doing same thing. Mother Mopar used a pre 09 block on my 09 donor 6.1. Hence different pickup. I too had to manufacture tunnel and tranny mounts etc. I have a build thread on here 6.1 into 72 Demon. Just replaced inner fender today. It goes on and on. Total pain but should be well worth it.
Ive read most of your thread to about page 5 I'm still working on it. So I got my k member back from powder coat. It looks good but now noticing the sway bar was welded on before which will suck to install on my freshly powdercoated k frame. Had quiete the time getting the a arms(upper control arm) bolts out. Learned to clamp it in place so the bolts will both stay straight otherwise it'll get wedged. Does anyone know what socket size the four k member mounting bolts are? I didnt have that size and left the whole thing in cause of those 4 bolts. Can anyone send detailed pics of a milodon oil pan for the 5.7 6.1? The suspension is shot infront and i forgot to mention the old k member snapped near the motor mount I wondernow what that 440 was pushing that they previous owner kept.. Oh and I had to wire wheel much much more than shown in the picture took good video documentation of the welds amd rework done on everything so far.
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I will check on K frame bolt sizes in the morning. I have some pretty detailed oil pan pix on my build thread. Keep in mind when you swap oil pick ups you will need to remove P/U support bolt on caps. They are modern Yield style, one use only bolts. Bunch of chatter over that topic and I am simply not savvy enough on the moderns to provide guidance. I figure a couple new bolts cost is cheap insurance. Lots of passionate opinions on that topic for sure. I also went with different windage tray.
 
Socket size is 1 1/6. The sway bar should bolt on, not welded. The four holes(two each side) that are through the flange in the "u" part on each side, is where a small piece of channel bracket bolts to. Then the sway bar bolts to that. The bar snakes through the center of the K member.
 
Socket size is 1 1/6. The sway bar should bolt on, not welded. The four holes(two each side) that are through the flange in the "u" part on each side, is where a small piece of channel bracket bolts to. Then the sway bar bolts to that. The bar snakes through the center of the K member.
It was definitely welded...the sway bar I mean.. Reworking a lot of this engine bay is killing me on time but I'm just working the small stuff out then I'll patch these holes that were made for the big block they had and shoot it with some paint tomorrow. I'll eventually have to address that fact that all the suspension is shot out every bushing and I'm having a bad feeling about putting any of that stock stuff back in...
 
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Socket size is 1 1/6. The sway bar should bolt on, not welded. The four holes(two each side) that are through the flange in the "u" part on each side, is where a small piece of channel bracket bolts to. Then the sway bar bolts to that. The bar snakes through the center of the K member.
Definately was welded. Decided to clean up the engine bay alot more than i planned and brought it down to raw metal now going to spray some paint the pictures I'm putting the firewall is not finished being cleaned i just finished that now im going to do some tape lines and spray the engine bay black.
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