Post Mortem on a 360

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missing linc

Loose nut behind the wheel
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So I finally got the 360 out and on a stand to finish teardown. Beyond the obvious corrosion from water intrusion, the excess coolant in the oilpan was the result of a crack in the wall of cylinder 1, my guess is it was created by too much nitrous. All main and rod bearings were trashed, with number 3 connecting rod bearing being reduced to the size of a nickel, and the corresponding wasting of the crankshaft throw. I also found that the oil pump pick up tube was loose enough that it appeared to have rotated slightly, potentially leading to oil starvation and maybe the catalyst that lead to the eventual death of the motor. Inside the timing cover is spotless, as are the bottom sides of the pistons, so I don't think this motor had a very long life. Also had a Comp 274h cam. All scrap metal now.
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360 blocks are out there. But any trashed motor is $$$ down the drain.
 
The motor rotated the pickup on its own.. it preferred a quick death to picking up any more of the chocolate in the pan LOL
 
that's what sleeves are for
crank grindable or does it need welding?
Probably will need to be welded, reground, if I can't find another complete engine cheap enough I may try sleeving and repairing the crank, or may go stroker crank too. Have also contemplated going 3g Hemi. Budget is the biggest consideration, as with most builds, but I think I can recover some of the cost of a hemi by selling off the small block parts I no longer would need.
 
Tear it apart, let's see the no.1 cylinder crack.

All it take is some cavitation in the right spot and the rest of the wall no matter how thick will fall out.

Detonation is a 1,000lb hammer.
 
Probably will need to be welded, reground, if I can't find another complete engine cheap enough I may try sleeving and repairing the crank, or may go stroker crank too. Have also contemplated going 3g Hemi. Budget is the biggest consideration, as with most builds, but I think I can recover some of the cost of a hemi by selling off the small block parts I no longer would need.
What a mess inside, but you expected that..........
I'll give you a call this weekend.
I'm sure that i have a decent 360 short block that you can build for cheap..........
 
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If yours is decked, line honed or any other special machine work sleeve the block
Is the rod blue or ok?
get back on the track instead of spending all race season on a new build
maybe build the stroker for next year
work with Krooser- he knows how to race with a tight fist
btw that old school comp 274 was out of date new in the box
old school is a polite way to say a chevy regrind on a mopar lobe
IDK if that lobe was a UDHarold lobe or not- the 268 HE is but also obsolete of us Mopar lovers
putting on flame suite
 
Tear it apart, let's see the no.1 cylinder crack.

All it take is some cavitation in the right spot and the rest of the wall no matter how thick will fall out.

Detonation is a 1,000lb hammer.
My opinion is simply that this block is already weakened, so I don't like the idea of putting more money into it. If I don't get anything together this year, I'm ok with that, I can't spend more than I have, and I am patient beyond words. I'll work on the body damage, get it fixed and keep my options open.
 
What a mess inside, but you expected that..........
I'll give you a call this weekend.
I'm sure that i have a decent 360 short block that you can build for cheap..........
Yup, no real big surprises, we'll talk this weekend, forecast is for snow anyway.
 
If yours is decked, line honed or any other special machine work sleeve the block
Is the rod blue or ok?
get back on the track instead of spending all race season on a new build
maybe build the stroker for next year
work with Krooser- he knows how to race with a tight fist
btw that old school comp 274 was out of date new in the box
old school is a polite way to say a chevy regrind on a mopar lobe
IDK if that lobe was a UDHarold lobe or not- the 268 HE is but also obsolete of us Mopar lovers
putting on flame suite
I have no idea what has been done to this block as I bought the car as is, not running, parked for 7 years or longer, but from what I'm seeing I doubt it had any big money put into it, just a quick, cheap go fast and hope it lasts build. Stock 360 crank, .040 over pistons, cheap headers, best parts are the 340X heads, MSD, and the Demon carb.
 
It' would have to take a minimum hone and be able to reuse pistons to use that block with a sleeve
If I had to bore the whole thing and new pistons I'd start over too
I can do sleeves myself which does make a difference
 
It' would have to take a minimum hone and be able to reuse pistons to use that block with a sleeve
If I had to bore the whole thing and new pistons I'd start over too
I can do sleeves myself which does make a difference
The amount of rust in the cylinders would likely be deeper than a light hone, so I don't see much sense in re-using this block. If it were a numbers matching 340 6 pack I would be inclined to try saving it, otherwise start fresh.
 
Depends on if the block is blueprinted, decked, line honed etc
he has been using that chocolate shake rust coating
I doubt if it has rusted enough that even a bottle brush would clean up
 
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