dartfreak75 Thought I'd post it here in case somebody else could use it. Not overly detailed. Hope this helps you some...
Dartfreak75... Quick TQ tuning tips Video I made for you
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dustadude
Well-Known Member
Awesome video! Any chance of another video showing the proper sequence of adjustments when rebuilding, ie following the rebuild kit flow chart with all the adjustments? I loved watching your video, thank you!
chance... yes. If I decide to use this carb on a project, I'll throw a kit in it and make a short video.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Thank you very much that clears up alot of my questions!! Awesome video as always!!
I'm gonna be honest I didn't know what the metering rods were on a tq at all until now I didn't understand that at all lol.
I'm still 100% clear on the flap I understand how to adjust it I just dont understand they why. What does that flap do? Does it act like a choke for the secondary to keep them closed off until they are being used?
I'm gonna be honest I didn't know what the metering rods were on a tq at all until now I didn't understand that at all lol.
I'm still 100% clear on the flap I understand how to adjust it I just dont understand they why. What does that flap do? Does it act like a choke for the secondary to keep them closed off until they are being used?
Why your confused on the flap is because of this question: Is it mechanical or vacuum secondary's??? Answer is both. The back barrels are opened mechanically, however, there is no accelerator pump back there. Without the flap, and without an accelerator pump, you'd have a massive bog when you floored the car. The flap "eases" the air entering and also the shape of it helps the siphoning effect, avoiding the bog. So, the flap is like an Quick Fuel adjustable vacuum secondary, while the back barrels are opened like a Holley Double Pumper.
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dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ohhhhh that makes since now! I thought tqs were straight mechanical secondary that clears things up!!
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That's pretty cool, man.
My understanding is you rebuild these …. any tips that I missed, feel free to chime in with them
My understanding is you rebuild these …. any tips that I missed, feel free to chime in with them
I do. I have some I have to get done for @Jadaharabi and I know he's mad at me, but I have had more than a full plate. I gotta get his done. I have had a really rough time with my health and had to resign from O'Reilly. It sucks.
The only thing I would add that will get someone started would be this.
On the metering rod adjustment, do the following to get a good base line for the metering rod adjustment. This is NOT a permanent adjustment and is only meant to get it where it will run decently and you can tune as described from there.
Depress the metering rod primary piston until it lightly bottoms in the bore. Hold it there. With a small screwdriver, turn the screw counter clockwise until the primary piston stops going down. Then, slowly turn the screw clockwise taking note where the primary piston starts to move up. From the point it begins to move up, turn the screw 1 1/2 turns clockwise. This is a starting point. From there you can fine tune it by turning the screw clockwise to richen the mixture and counter clockwise to lean it.
You also mentioned in your video some have an allen head adjustment. As long as I've been messin with these, I've never seen that. I would consider that an upgrade, as it would be easier to adjust a running engine without the screwdriver fallin out of the slot.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
agree. I've tuned the metering rod hanger adjustment for cruise on long trips at freeway speeds. I use the color of the tailpipes to help me judge the cruise mixture adjustment. Of course this is after you've already settled on the best rods for power, midrange, and cruise and installed them.
one other thing I've run into is people tightening that sec air door spring tension lockring like they're trying to secure the Queen Mary! It just needs a light snug. Another is the two bowl screws beneath the choke plate, use the correct size screwdriver or remove the choke plate and shaft, so you don't bend them by forcing a big *** screwdriver in where it won't fit.
I always sanded the bottom (skinniest) part of the metering rod some. I'd richen them up this way, but wouldn't have that effect till mostly into the gas. Most of these TQ's I used came off of maxi vans, or mid-70's C-bodies, and they all had single exhaust.
Another note I forgot to mention to folks new to TQ's is that when the motor is running, vacuum pulls against the metering spring and pulls it down.
Tune tech tip;
Given the difficulty of tuning parts, picking up several junk broken carbs can yield different rods and jets. While a bit pricey for just the acquisition of these parts, spare bodies come in handy.
Try the carb shop or other carb rebuilders sites for parts.
Now IF you have an AFB/AVS tuning kit (or you can get on cheap) bend the AFB/AVS Rods 3/4 down from the top and clip off. There a thicker rod and may/will require you to drill out the TQ’s tree that holds the rods. (I’ll double check that since it has been awhile.)
But this opens up the tunability of the carb. Just realize there a two step rod, not a 3 step rod.
It is also possible to use the AFB/AVS step up springs. But they are MUCH smaller than the TQ spring. Take note when you use them. Also remember the TQ has a cam inside of it to manually open up the enrichment circuit if the spring fails to do so.
Given the difficulty of tuning parts, picking up several junk broken carbs can yield different rods and jets. While a bit pricey for just the acquisition of these parts, spare bodies come in handy.
Try the carb shop or other carb rebuilders sites for parts.
Now IF you have an AFB/AVS tuning kit (or you can get on cheap) bend the AFB/AVS Rods 3/4 down from the top and clip off. There a thicker rod and may/will require you to drill out the TQ’s tree that holds the rods. (I’ll double check that since it has been awhile.)
But this opens up the tunability of the carb. Just realize there a two step rod, not a 3 step rod.
It is also possible to use the AFB/AVS step up springs. But they are MUCH smaller than the TQ spring. Take note when you use them. Also remember the TQ has a cam inside of it to manually open up the enrichment circuit if the spring fails to do so.
Not mad rrr. Figure you will get it done when you can.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I hate hear that about your heath and o'Reilly! I'm praying for you buddy!!
This is all great advice thank you all!
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Oh here is the carb I picked up on Ebay. It's a 9072 according to the information I found it's a 1975 360 carb. Which I think is really cool because it will match the size of my engine and year of my car.
Kinda make it look original.
Kinda make it look original.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
I was looking thru the list of all the different models and found several different numbers for the metering rods and jets. What jet size/metering rod would you recommend for a mild 360.
Just it case I come across a few more tq cores.
So who wants to tell him? One of yall want to do it or you want me to?
I’ll do it.
Return the carb to the store or use it for parts. Wrong year/model carb.
Any and all you can get.
dartfreak75
Restore it, Dont part it!
Ok now I'm confused?? How is it the wrong carb?? What's wrong with it? I was under the impression that they all would work as long as it's not a lean burn?
This is my rack of built up TQ parts.
This is my Quad Squad
This is my Quad Squad
This 9023 is the least desirable member. Almost to many vacuum ports that can be plugged and a JB Weld fix.
See "all that" on the front of it? That's an emissions carburetor. It's not worthless. There are some good parts on it. But as a whole, you don't want to use it. Look at those carburetors in rumblefish's picture. See how "plain" they are on the front compared to yours? That's what you're looking for. Let me pick you a good one out and send it to you. You'll have to clean it up and put a kit in it.
This is a 9027 off of a IHC 392.
Much better. But there is one draw back that is easy to fix. It’s a lean out Circuit that’s needs to be addressed. EZ fix. It’s over the rear of the secondary side.
Much better. But there is one draw back that is easy to fix. It’s a lean out Circuit that’s needs to be addressed. EZ fix. It’s over the rear of the secondary side.
This is a 6545. The best production one I have.
Notice the lack of vacuum ports.
Notice the lack of vacuum ports.
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