6-71 small block build.

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Cope

Cope

Fusing with fire
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It begins!

@Coyote Jack

I'm ready to order the blower kit and need some advice on what pulleys to get.

I'm going with the Dyers street/strip kit if that makes a difference?

8mill belt or 1/2" tooth?
2 or 3" belt?

I'd like a pulley combo that is close in tooth count so I can start out with less boost and when i get it figured out swap the pulleys for more boost? Is this even doable?

Heads will be open chamber cast iron for now. May go aluminum at a later time.
Pistons are undecided yet. I think I'm gonna look for a different LA 360 long block so I dont have to tear into my existing engine.
I will just start a new build and keep my 10.5-1 NA engine as a back up for now.

Anything you think I'm over looking, feel free to let me know.

Thanks guys!
 
Cope said:
It begins!
I'm ready to order the blower kit and need some advice on what pulleys to get.
Click to expand...
Congrats and good luck. IMO, start with the stock pulleys and see what you get. If your a tinkerer like me, order up two more smaller pulleys.


8mill belt or 1/2" tooth?
2 or 3" belt?
Click to expand...
Bigger the better.....

I'd like a pulley combo that is close in tooth count so I can start out with less boost and when i get it figured out swap the pulleys for more boost? Is this even doable?
Click to expand...
Yup
Heads will be open chamber cast iron for now. May go aluminum at a later time.
Pistons are undecided yet. I think I'm gonna look for a different LA 360 long block so I dont have to tear into my existing engine.
I will just start a new build and keep my 10.5-1 NA engine as a back up for now.

Anything you think I'm over looking, feel free to let me know.

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...
Have fun!!!!
 
I would go with a 3 inch belt. I run a 1/2 inch pitch belt but I have been told the 8mm's are better and more choices. As far as pulleys go, I would go with 2 different sizes and start out under driving it and then once I had things dialed in switch them out and overdrive it a little. By that I mean plus or minus 10%. For everyday driving I underdrive mine to 6 lbs of boost and then when I want to have some real fun I crank it up to 10 lbs of boost. The idea of starting with a different block sounds good to me. If everything goes as planned you can always sell the old engine to recoup some of your money. I will state right now that once you have that blower on there and running right you will never take it off.

Jack
 
I'm just finishing mine up currently playing with the Hilborn injection before taking it to the track. Definitely go 8mm and 3" belt. There's enough pulleys out there that you can just figure where you want to start and go from there. Mine came with 50 & 52 which is pretty lame but that has since been changed. You have to be a little careful because too much change will require a different length belt.
 
I know 8mill is better but I have a set of 1/2 pulleys on the model A. So right there saves me 300 bucks in tuning cost.

(8 mill vs 1/2 inch, same purchase price. Just need to decide what I want.)

Is it worth just going fo the 8 mill belt and pulley set up and just stocking up on new pulleys?
How much better is it?
 
I’d run the 8mm
43t bottom
52t top
That’s 17% under driven
Boost will be around 7PSI
The crank centerline to the snouts centerline will be around 20”

A 14408M75 belt might work, but you have plenty of time to figure that out.
 
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MiradaMegaCab said:
I’d run the 8mm
43t bottom
52t top
That’s 17% under driven
Boost will be around 7PSI
The crank centerline to the snouts centerline will be around 20”

A 14408M75 belt might work, but you have plenty of time to figure that out.
Click to expand...


Thank you that just the info I need.

Do you have a chart or something, how are you figuring out the pulley to boost numbers?

What would the boost be if I switch those pulleys to small pulley on top?

Thanks again!
 
Cope said:
Thank you that just the info I need.

Do you have a chart or something, how are you figuring out the pulley to boost numbers?

What would the boost be if I switch those pulleys to small pulley on top?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
I believe all those charts are on the BDS site. Good info!!!
 
Well here she is. It's a smog era 360. Looks like the block has never been machined. It had head work at some time but I'm not concerned about the heads. I just wanted a uncut block.

Gonna start cleaning her up sometime this week, then I'll know if it's a boat anchor or a good block.

A day in the hot tank, smooth out the cylinders, into the blaster, through the jet wash, chase the threads and paint her a nice mopar blue and BAM. one sexy block.

Total cost, less than a dollar per cube.

20190519_155041_zpska9oe9on.jpg


My plan, as dumb and crazy as it seems is to do this super low budget.
New rings, internal ballance, forged dish slugs, new bearings, ARP fasteners and bearings.


So
5 grand induction.
2 grand in hard parts
Hopefully no cost at the machine shop. Although I'm gonna have to call in all my favors at once and still probably owe him some work in trade but.....
7 grand for a 6-71 small block. I guess it could be done cheaper but not by much.
 
Cope said:
What would the boost be if I switch those pulleys to small pulley on top?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Swapping the upper and lower pulleys will be 20% over driven, resulting in boost somewhere around 17PSI.

Cope said:
A day in the hot tank, smooth out the cylinders, into the blaster, through the jet wash, chase the threads and paint her.

Hopefully no cost at the machine shop.
Click to expand...

What head gaskets are you using? Cometics need a special deck and head surface machining to work properly.
If you’re not gonna have the machine work done, run a FelPro 1008 head gasket with the 7PSI of Boost.
If you’re gonna run the 17PSI of boost then run a SCE gasket.
 
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Thank you!

I doubt I'll ever push it to 17Lbs. I'll buy new pulleys before I get that crazy.

I'm gonna order the kit in the morning. Dyers said 2-3 weeks out. So that will give me some time to get the block prepared order some parts.

Thank you for your advice, I'm gonna need all the help I can get!
 
I used a Gilmer belt with my Dyers drive kit on my early Hemi.

8-1 compression...
The cam came in at 113 lsa.

I'd have to swallow hard if I spent that $$$ on my blower deal...I had under $1500.00 in mine but I shopped around...paid $20.00 for my 6-71 after I pulled it off a salvaged Dodge truck.

I've sold several blower cores to Gary Dyer ... neat to see all of his shop equipment. His son runs the deal now ..
Good people.
 
Trust me I've done the math many different ways. I have a 6-71 blower core hanging on the wall but I'm just gonna suck it up and spend the long dollar on this.

They're just not cheep like they once were.

It's not realy 5K, the kit is 3,700.00 for everything. But I traded some parts for some other parts and I'm counting that as part of the blower cost.

Just a good small block intake is 1,500.00 if you can find one..
 
Even my build thread has more pictures and less blab than this. Lame.
 
I sold my cores to Bill Dyer for $250.00 each.

Rick Dean at Dean Blowers did the gas conversion for $425.00 plus I bought a used rear bearing plate from him and gaskets.

I milled up a 4x2 carb plate to use four Stromberg 97's but settled on a single AFB.

The drive kit I bought on fleaBay for $350.00...new from Dyer's. That was a deal.

I found an old speedshop in Mass that had an old nib Cragar manifold that I got for $250.00.

Just couldn't afford to do it any other way.

Dean Blowers
 
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