We are rebuilding a 440 to 512. New crank, of course, cam, pistons, heads, rods , the whole ball of wax as they say. During the assembly we would constantly check the rotating assemble for binding and tightness. all seemed to be good. We assembled the heads and adjusted the valves. Finally we checked the oil flow through the heads before closing up the top end. The engine has sat for 4 months while I procrastinated doing the 727 rebuild. When I went to turn it over by the crank bolt with a breaker bar, it felt tighter than before. I did not reprime the oil before doing that but I will before starting for the first time. How tight is too tight? Any guidelines for how much torque it takes to turn it over? I am finally getting back into this after a break and my memory may not be the sharpest.
How tight is too tight. 512 stroker rebuild
- Thread starter Kent mosby
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I assume you did oil / lube bearings/ cylinders at assembly? You could "park" that thing 5 years and the oil would not go away. Rust is another matter, but if the engine is sealed up that should not be an issue. ANY idea what the turning force actually is? My first thought is that you are imagining trouble.
So far as priming, I always start with NO FILTER. This is because the filter is directly after the pump output, and removing it removes any "head" that the pump must work against. It should take about 1-2 seconds to get oil out of the filter mount. Then fill and mount the filter, and I like to remove the oil sender, hook a hose to it into a can, etc, and prime until that gets oil. Then rotate engine slowly (I forget the degrees relative to TDC) to line up the cam holes and get oil to the rockers.
So far as priming, I always start with NO FILTER. This is because the filter is directly after the pump output, and removing it removes any "head" that the pump must work against. It should take about 1-2 seconds to get oil out of the filter mount. Then fill and mount the filter, and I like to remove the oil sender, hook a hose to it into a can, etc, and prime until that gets oil. Then rotate engine slowly (I forget the degrees relative to TDC) to line up the cam holes and get oil to the rockers.
Everything had correct assembly lube used. Engine was sealed up in a climate controlled shop. I just looked and saw, The spark plugs were installed since the last time I tried it. Doh, I should have checked that first. I will pull the plugs and recheck the amount of torque needed to turn the crank tomorrow.
j par
Well-hung Member
LOL, that'll do it...
famous bob
mopar misfit
Spark plugs is the first thing I thot of , my 505 is practically impossible to turn over w/o waiting for the pressure to bleed of with the plugs in it .
fratzog lover
Well-Known Member
I think 26-27 ft/lbs. What kind of assembly lube?
I am finally on the engine run stand. I pulled the plugs and primed the oil with a rod. With the distributor out and no plugs in it would turn over with the starter with a battery of 11.5 volts. It turned over slowly and stopped after a few turns but it would turn over. Time to charge the battery, set the timing, get the plug wires routed, install the radiator, run the fuel lines and finish routing the wires. Then, time to break it in... More questions to come i am sure.
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