Valve pocket/bowl hog tools....

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Dont like to disagree mike but i just bought 2 of the long burrs single cut for only 16 bucks each from mc master carr.

Dont like to disagree mike but i just got some from mcmaster good quality ones to, 1 was 16 and 1 was 20.
Agree to disagree. I see a lot of smaller bits in that price range. The larger bits are more in the $30-50 range. McMaster-Carr
 
My 273 heads were done on a Serdi machine. (carbide inserts) Woody then did the rest by hand.

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Bowl Hogs were big several years ago. They had their place, and were valuable to those who were in classes with porting restrictions.
The problem with them is that a guy can cut too deep with them and screw themselves by not leaving enough room for a proper valve job.
And if you're doing full port work, you end up grinding out all of the tapper anyway.
Like a lot of the other men on this forum, I use Souix equipment. I even have the Serdi multi angle cutters.
But I still end up going the stone route, cause I can move the VJ around.

To answer the bowl question tho…. What I do 95% of the time is find, or cut, a stone (90°/sharp edge) that's 88% of the valve size and bring it down to make a concentric MARK in the OE seat and grind to that point in the bowl. (yes, I have lots of stones)
This leaves plenty of room to fit 2 angles below the seat and some area for blend.
 
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Even w/a rough stone and a pilot, the bowls aren't uniform, I have carbide pilots that are hard & accurate...but if Your not patient(VERY) the side loading can snap them. That goes for stones and multi-blade/bit cutters, but really for single cutters ie Serdi etc. If You lay out Your dimensions accurately on card sheet, and set the width/height w/markings starting from a guide center-line, You can exacto-cut a template out and insert it in the guide and work with a burr till You're really close. Have You used/seen the ones Mopar sells/sold?

I've not used them, I've had a complete set and set them into the guides to see how they work. I liked the idea, but still......my skill freehanding a dremel is fundamental at best. lol I guess I could practice on a POS cracked head.
 
Flap wheels and grindstones work well also. Smoothing out transitions without removing a lot of material can be very beneficial. Sometimes you don't need the hog at hit out to make it work especially if you're not running a huge cam.
 
I've not used them, I've had a complete set and set them into the guides to see how they work. I liked the idea, but still......my skill freehanding a dremel is fundamental at best. lol I guess I could practice on a POS cracked head.


You can buy bowl hogs from Goodson and use them in a drill press if you can hold the head and level off the guides.

No freaking way would I do a plunge cut with a stone.
 
You can buy bowl hogs from Goodson and use them in a drill press if you can hold the head and level off the guides.

No freaking way would I do a plunge cut with a stone.

Naw I ain't doin all that. I thought about it. The cutter(s) I'm lookin at have pilots that use the guides to center them up. That makes it pretty stupid proof. I need stupid proof.
 
Naw I ain't doin all that. I thought about it. The cutter(s) I'm lookin at have pilots that use the guides to center them up. That makes it pretty stupid proof. I need stupid proof.


Yeah, you can use a ball driver for that. You still need to be fairly close to level though.

I will look and see if I can find my Goodson catalog. I used to have some bowl hogs but I gave them away.
 
Yeah, you can use a ball driver for that. You still need to be fairly close to level though.

I will look and see if I can find my Goodson catalog. I used to have some bowl hogs but I gave them away.

I am just trying to make a decent flowing head on a budget. I really wanted @MOPAROFFICIAL to do it, but I just don't think I can swing it. Maybe I should play the lottery?
 
Yeah, you can use a ball driver for that. You still need to be fairly close to level though.

I will look and see if I can find my Goodson catalog. I used to have some bowl hogs but I gave them away.
Goodson quit carrying SilverSeal Hogs,......They basically want You to use their 3D Serdi-like setup w/the 70*75* what have You cutters, so I was told on the tele when I inquired............
 
I've not used them, I've had a complete set and set them into the guides to see how they work. I liked the idea, but still......my skill freehanding a dremel is fundamental at best. lol I guess I could practice on a POS cracked head.

You're exactly right, RRR. Start on a junk head. You'll get the hang of it before you know it.
Heck, we ALL got our feet wet that way. I encourage you to give it a shot.
 
You can buy bowl hogs from Goodson and use them in a drill press if you can hold the head and level off the guides.

No freaking way would I do a plunge cut with a stone.

I had a stone get jammed tight before I started using a spring, Had to take off the holder and remove the pilot then put the holder back in and tap it back and forth to get it broke loose, tossed out that stone. I start with a smaller size to just knock off the high spots and go bigger till I get what I want. I have made a lot of stones and I have a lot of holders, once you dress a stone you never want to take it back off the holder because you just have to dress the stone away, they get beat up fast enough.
 
I am just trying to make a decent flowing head on a budget. I really wanted @MOPAROFFICIAL to do it, but I just don't think I can swing it. Maybe I should play the lottery?

Takes a lot of time.
Like everything mopar, the potential is there if you know what you are doing.
Those / heads dont gain **** more than 20 cfm without spending the time.
It's the floor, and that's what everyone shys away from.
I have a few heads.
/ big valve head ported 195-200cfm is what I get. I'm not trying to set the world on fire, but its respectable. Most of that is .400 and blow...the last 10cfm is .500-.550 and hanging on.
 
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big valve head ported 195-200cfm is what I get. I'm not trying to set the world on fire, but its respectable. Most of that is under .400...the last 10cfm is .500-.550

What test pressure?
 
Takes a lot of time.
Like everything mopar, the potential is there if you know what you are doing.
Those / heads dont gain **** more than 20 cfm without spending the time.
It's the floor, and that's what everyone shys away from.
I have a few heads.
/ big valve head ported 195-200cfm is what I get. I'm not trying to set the world on fire, but its respectable. Most of that is under .400...the last 10cfm is .500-.550 and hanging on.

Well, here is "where I'm at". I tore down this slant head I had the other day. To my astonishment, the guides weren't just good. They're real good. That's gonna save some dough........If the head isn't cracked. So, my plan is to go ahead with the 318 valves..........SINCE the guides are good. I am lookin at kits on Ebay for bowl and seat enlargement. Get hooked back up with Mike at B3 to get the geometry corrected and see if maybe I can either port it myself, or maybe get some local help. From what I have read, 75% of the flow improvement is in the bowl area anyway, so if I do a good job there, that will be most of it......hopefully. LOL
 
Goodson quit carrying SilverSeal Hogs,......They basically want You to use their 3D Serdi-like setup w/the 70*75* what have You cutters, so I was told on the tele when I inquired............


That may be. That's why I got rid of the bowl hogs. I started using single blade cutters to do bowl roughing. Then finish by hand. Plus I could custom order different angles for different things.
 
Well, here is "where I'm at". I tore down this slant head I had the other day. To my astonishment, the guides weren't just good. They're real good. That's gonna save some dough........If the head isn't cracked. So, my plan is to go ahead with the 318 valves..........SINCE the guides are good. I am lookin at kits on Ebay for bowl and seat enlargement. Get hooked back up with Mike at B3 to get the geometry corrected and see if maybe I can either port it myself, or maybe get some local help. From what I have read, 75% of the flow improvement is in the bowl area anyway, so if I do a good job there, that will be most of it......hopefully. LOL


That's where most of the flow is, but I always set the valve job first and then blend out to it. Not the other way around. The valve job is the single most important port work you will do. Been a while since I looked at a slant head...but...here it comes...I wouldn't be afraid to do a 50 degree seat on that.

Also, what do you have for rockers?
 
That's where most of the flow is, but I always set the valve job first and then blend out to it. Not the other way around. The valve job is the single most important port work you will do. Been a while since I looked at a slant head...but...here it comes...I wouldn't be afraid to do a 50 degree seat on that.

Also, what do you have for rockers?

That's how I plan to do it......even though I said it backwards. I have perhaps one of the best head porters in the country local to me.........but he swore off cast iron. LOL He's said he would help get me in the right direction though, so "we'll see". lol
 
That's how I plan to do it......even though I said it backwards. I have perhaps one of the best head porters in the country local to me.........but he swore off cast iron. LOL He's said he would help get me in the right direction though, so "we'll see". lol
Gawdddd heerrrrre, and remind me how close you are to shipping it again please. Haha ;)

Slant 6 head flow
 
That's how I plan to do it......even though I said it backwards. I have perhaps one of the best head porters in the country local to me.........but he swore off cast iron. LOL He's said he would help get me in the right direction though, so "we'll see". lol


Everyone who has done CI has sworn it off...myself included. CI sucks giant elephant butt.
 
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