just one more cam selection thread

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flyfish said:
Challenge accepted!!

Open the cam catalog and pick one at the bottom of the page of the race section :p

Just kidding, please don't.
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One in every crowd. LMAO
 
toolmanmike said:
Crane Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshafts 693901
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I have this cam in my current stock '69 340 Dart. It pulls hard from 800rpm up and will boil the small 21570R14's at launch or lo speed.I have not had the car past 90mph but am guessing it will nose over around 4800 rpm and rev freely past that.
Very few will even give this wimpy piece a second look.It has a smooth idle, pulls hard with 3.23's and small tires and gets 20 plus mpg.
 
ir3333 said:
I have this cam in my current stock '69 340 Dart. It pulls hard from 800rpm up and will boil the small 21570R14's at launch or lo speed.I have not had the car past 90mph but am guessing it will nose over around 4800 rpm and rev freely past that.
Very few will even give this wimpy piece a second look.It has a smooth idle, pulls hard with 3.23's and small tires and gets 20 plus mpg.
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On stock or near stock heads, what lift shows max flow... Why go higher?
 
comp 262 vs Lunati or other MOPAR cam
pointy nose versus big nose- your choice
as rumble says the summit cam would save a couple of bucks but looses torque
the whiplash also costs torque-I'd like nothing that costs torque down low for your build
the crane 901 260 advertised duration is more like the 256 Mopar cams durations than the 262 comp or lunati
comp, crane and summit all lose torque
comp has nothing below 274 that competes
similar priced cams why leave power on the table
agree with 66fs just enough higher to get into the flow sweet sport but not enough higher to get into much turbulance
with a nice multi angle valve job and a little blend on the bottom cut maybe a half inch
it's not like using stones where all the extra angles take much more time
btw using the larger Mopar lifter makes more difference than high lift rockers and is essentially free power
 
66fs said:
On stock or near stock heads, what lift shows max flow... Why go higher?
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On street and street strip builds that see mostly street duty rather than strip, I agree. It’s a longevity thing.

Racing, another topic another thread.....
 
I had Ultradyne custom grind a cam for my 372. Lift was .480 where stock x heads stall out at.
We spent a lot of time on the phone over the week...I think i near drove them crazy designing the cam.
They were super to work with.
And AJ was a big help too!
 
rumblefish360 said:
On street and street strip builds that see mostly street duty rather than strip, I agree. It’s a longevity thing.

Racing, another topic another thread.....
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And herein is the difference. If I was choosing something for a race car, I'd say lets see if we can find something to maximize the combination. With a street car, you have to find a happy medium. You need a good vacuum signal if you run power brakes or want good street manners. People just cannot get it through their head when 90% of folks ask "which cam" to run, they don't give two figs about "how much you know" and they're not lookin for a "cam education". Most of these threads leave the OP with more questions than answers.

"Around .500 lift and "around" 230 @.050 on an LSA between 108 (choppy idle) to 114 (smoother idle) on I don't give a darn whose lobes and it's GONNA run good. Go smaller on the duration for a smaller cube engine and lower RPM torque and higher on the duration for a larger engine and higher RPM torque.

These threads always end up about "look what I know" and never about helping the OP. Most of these guys don't give a **** what anybody knows. They just want a decent cam suggestion without pulling their hair out and most of you kickturds make it worse.
 
x2 rumble
you can even make a Mopar lifter cam with a lot of lift and a pointy nose which requires stronger springs and wears poorly but why?
roll the lift over and live
"Either Crane 69901 or CompXE-262H-10" 50 year old cams just do not cut it today you can do better
 
Weird, the cam worked very well 50 years ago. Don’t know why it would t work today.

That’s like libtards saying guns kill people. Mines been sitting for years and never killed anyone much less moved!
LMAO

Re read RRR post above.
It’s for you and AJ.
 
If I was a 16 year old kid again I would put a 3/4 race cam and a 950 holley dual feed double pumper on my 318 Plymouth Sport Suburban Station Wagon
 
Correct RRR. Sadly I had the same issue with some of the large parts companies. One "tech" kept pushing me to turbo charge my engine. I called for an effing cam suggestion!!!! I also tried a few of the cam manufacturers and they threw out suggestions without even getting my full vehicle set-up information. Another gave me some pretty radical cam specs. I finally gave up and am living with my mild cam for now until I can get into the engine and take some measurements. All this for a mild street engine similar to the OP. Sheesh.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Weird, the cam worked very well 50 years ago. Don’t know why it would t work today.

That’s like libtards saying guns kill people. Mines been sitting for years and never killed anyone much less moved!
LMAO

Re read RRR post above.
It’s for you and AJ.
Click to expand...

My "kickturd" wasn't directed at you. lol I quoted you because I was in agreement with what you said.
 
Good analogy Rusty. You can reduce some numbers for the 318 crowd. "around 475 lift and 220° @ .050 duration. If you have a stock converter and 3.23 or lower gears, go smaller on the duration. The old designs worked with less lift and they worked pretty well.
RustyRatRod said:
And herein is the difference. If I was choosing something for a race car, I'd say lets see if we can find something to maximize the combination. With a street car, you have to find a happy medium. You need a good vacuum signal if you run power brakes or want good street manners. People just cannot get it through their head when 90% of folks ask "which cam" to run, they don't give two figs about "how much you know" and they're not lookin for a "cam education". Most of these threads leave the OP with more questions than answers.

"Around .500 lift and "around" 230 @.050 on an LSA between 108 (choppy idle) to 114 (smoother idle) on I don't give a darn whose lobes and it's GONNA run good. Go smaller on the duration for a smaller cube engine and lower RPM torque and higher on the duration for a larger engine and higher RPM torque.

These threads always end up about "look what I know" and never about helping the OP. Most of these guys don't give a **** what anybody knows. They just want a decent cam suggestion without pulling their hair out and most of you kickturds make it worse.
Click to expand...
 
From the responses indicating how poorly a Mopar would run with a pointy nose “Chevy” cam in it........ I guess one might arrive at the conclusion that Chevys must be a superior platform........ cuz there’s untold thousands of really really good running ones using those terrible pointy nose cams.

I recently replaced the cam and dyno tested a 360....... (sssshhhhh....... I used a pointy nose Chevy cam in it).
The motor ran wonderfully.
I think the secret is........ I never told the motor the cam had Chevy lobes.
 
My Dad used to have a 77 B200 3/4 ton conversion van....... the medium length size. Came with a 318-2bbl.

We installed a re-ringed mid-70’s 360, 1.88 360 heads, std Performer, Holley 600vs, headers.
Ran the stock converter(used a weighted flex plate), 3.23 gears, L60/15 rear tires.

Towed a 3700lb 79 Córdoba on a 1300lb open trailer all around the hills in New England to various drag strips for years. Plenty of power.

Oh yeh...... used a pointy nose Comp 268H in it.

One day at the track there was some issue with the car that was discovered before the first time run was even made.
I don’t recall what it was, but the car wasn’t getting raced that day.

Unhooks the trailer from the van, ran it in the street class.
Went 15.60’s.
 
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