Help me sort my combo

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I wish everybody ran as ethical a business as you do Dwayne but I have been reduced to "trust but verify".My experience with shops. My first motor was put together with loose crank tolerances, a cam that was installed dot to dot when the cam was cut 5 degrees retarded and assembled with no break in lube on the fuel pump push rod resulting in no pump actuation in no time flat. My second motor by a different shop was delivered to me with stop leak pellets in the water pump housing and apparently a dropped head cause the exhaust stud broke off when I rested the header on it. When I dropped this motor off the girl behind the counter (who happens to be the wife of the owner and pays the bills) says this motor is gonna need new pistons, block bored and a bunch of new parts before the block was even disassembled. When I explained the motor had only 2500 miles on it she said we'll just put the parts on the invoice and remove them if you don't need them. Not only were all the parts necessary (surprise) but they double billed me on some parts. BTW they got started in February and promised 6 weeks so what day is it? Sorry for the long answer.
 
When I dropped this motor off the girl behind the counter (who happens to be the wife of the owner and pays the bills) says this motor is gonna need new pistons, block bored and a bunch of new parts before the block was even disassembled.

I would have loaded my stuff up right then.
 
So heres one more thing I don't know. They installed adjustable rockers but now they want to put in custom pushrods. Using speedmaster PQX 3244011. Are the stock pushrods usable with the adjustable rockers?

Well, I usually take the stock heads, pushrods and rockers and throw them in the trash, but as I remember the stock rockers on all (or nearly all) RB engines were non adjustable rockers and the pushrods are rounded on both ends. The adjustable rockers will have a ball in cup style adjuster.

So the short answer is no.
 
Yes, and while there are sometimes pushrods available off the shelf, when you start to add in things as custom ground cams with reduced base circles and milling of head and deck surfaces or tolerance stack up, custom length pushrods are the only way to come up with the correct rocker geometry.
 
That’s a very good question brother AJ. I would think that Manton or Smith Brothers would probably be the go to on that. The H-D evolution motorcycle engines I got to help out on use adjustable pushrods for lash adjustment for both the factory hydraulic rollers. The S&S motor with triple valve spring with double dampers on a solid roller cam with sky high seat pressure used a set of Jim’s aftermarket adjustable pushrods that are usually reserved for nitro Harley. It’s doable, but don’t know what it would cost.
 
Well, I usually take the stock heads, pushrods and rockers and throw them in the trash, but as I remember the stock rockers on all (or nearly all) RB engines were non adjustable rockers and the pushrods are rounded on both ends. The adjustable rockers will have a ball in cup style adjuster.

So the short answer is no.

I did the same thing, even threw the stock rods away. (big block)
The early solid pushrods "DO" make a heck of a center punch. They must have had some good mat`l in them .r
 
On that note, does anyone make adjustable pushrods that you can leave in the engine, and run to say 6500 or better?
In 1979 I was running Smith Bros. 6,200 rpm in my street stocker on the circle track. I know we were using some as far back as 1959.
 
I did the same thing, even threw the stock rods away. (big block)
The early solid pushrods "DO" make a heck of a center punch. They must have had some good mat`l in them .r

I can't complain about the stock rods. I've used them twice but I beam polished them, shot peened and resized with ARP waveloc bolts.
 
I can't complain about the stock rods. I've used them twice but I beam polished them, shot peened and resized with ARP waveloc bolts.

Yeah their certainly heavy and strong enough.
I used a RACE balanced stroker kit w/ 7.1 rods from hughs engines, very well balanced, cant even feel it running on a solid motor plate.
 
FINALLY dyno time. Any guesses? New cam in post 71.
 
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425hp/500tq

I think you'll like that new cam a lot more than the .509.
 
My dyno was supposed to be today but apparently its delayed again. I so want to see what she will do. Schneider said 1800 to 6k.
 
My dyno was supposed to be today but apparently its delayed again. I so want to see what she will do. Schneider said 1800 to 6k.

Unless he plays games with his dyno it will make peak power well before 6k.

1800 is probably ballpark for the curve to start but I would never start a pull at 1800. I'd start your pull at 2500min
 
You kinda surprise me. I would have thought you would advocate headers.
 
You kinda surprise me. I would have thought you would advocate headers.

What you dyno it with should be what will be run on it in the car (or VERY similar). If your dyno guy doesn't have headers for your engine I'd find a new dyno guy with a set with EGT probes. Unless you want to provide him with a set. Your iron manifolds can easily be tapped for one per side which in my opinion is close enough.
 
I gave them my manifolds for the break in and dyno. Took them longer to reassemble than they thought so the dyno is tomorrow, hopefully. There was a little scoring on the oil pump, and they were having a hard time sealing the mls head gaskets because the block hasn't been decked and the surface was too rough. Took a 1/2 day off to be there. I can't be there for the dyno but they will shoot video, so I guess thats the next best thing. Talking to Lenny about a converter to match.
 
Sometimes you are better off not being there when they dyno it. I personally tend to get nervous while I'm there.
 
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