65 the good bad and ugly

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expat

FABO Gold Member
FABO Gold Member
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Hey All,

Im new here but been reading up as I recently put a deposit on 65 barracuda over at an importer which just arrived from the US. FYI, I live overseas and trying to have a piece of home away from home.

Went over to view and test drive the car put a deposit down on the basis that they get it road ready to actually drive. How can I put it, it ran well but drove poorly... Test driving this was scary. Would like to get your all opinion as its been a few years since I've owned American and this will be (my own) first mopar.

Uploaded a few pics so you all get an idea.

Cheers,
expat

The good:
Car seems solid and a decent starter to get up to par.
Underbody is entirely clean and was re-sealed.
Lots of new parts.
Interior appears completely original except new carpeting and needs some minor love.
273 runs smooth

The Bad:
Overpriced
Lots of stuff missing (no heater, heater core you can see from the pics no hoses even into the firewall, wiper reservoir, just to name a few)
Brakes not working (Still on original drums, which not entirely bad looking at conversions)
Still on manual Steering which seemed loose p. (robably need to replace headers for conversion hooker headers in there now)

The Ugly:
Drives poor car was all over the road.
Bit of spot rust in some places everywhere else looked clean.
Going into reverse load whirring noise (sounds like a bent carrier or mount may be going, maybe exhaust? Hard to say right now)
Some inexcusable workarounds done like on the throttle, car accelerates very poorly.

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Lipstick on a pig maybe. Sounds like a project that needs lots of work, like all projects.

Get the brakes, steering, and suspension safe first and foremost!
 
Lipstick on a pig maybe. Sounds like a project that needs lots of work, like all projects.

Get the brakes, steering, and suspension safe first and foremost!

Haven't heard that one in a while , thanks for the chuckle. Definitely those were my minimum requirements for final purchase as have to drive home lol. Guess my main concern is what else is hidden here , however won't know until I get it...

One thing I forgot to add would be great if someone could point me to some online reference material on the 65' 273 how it should be originally to use as a reference..
 
Drives poor
First, check that everything on the front suspension is tight. Typically, you need lower ball joints, outer tie rod ends, new pitman arm and idler arm and good shocks, Bilstein. Adjust the play out of the steering box and add fluid. I like Firm Feel for suspension parts, A Body Parts . Formula S cars had a front sway bar. I hate headers, especially fenderwells, if you are going to drive and enjoy it on the street.

As for the Carb
Get the MOPAR specific arm to get the geometry correct. The Holley Street Dominator intake moves the Carb toward the back of the car so adjust throttle at WOT and transmission kick down again.

Reverse
Check the cable adjustment on the transmission gear selector. What rear do you have?

Heater core
Is there, along with the AC connections. Hook up Heater Hoses, AC compressor and engine compartment components appear missing.
Should be a sweet driving car when sorted out. Good Luck!
 
Since the car is at an importers, I doubt they will want to spend a lot of Euros to make it really road ready AND safe to drive. Chances are it will need a complete front end rebuild - upper and lower ball joints, tie rods and most likely Pitman and Idler arms. Then an alignment for those Irish roads. Chances are it needs a replacement heater core - more parts that need to be imported from the US. Is the importer willing to do all this? There looks like a lot of work to bring it up to snuff. If you go back to manifolds, then those fenderwell cutouts need to be repaired and the list goes on and on!

Personally, I would have done all the necessary work and imported a car myself and bought a done and correct car. I think you would be dollars and Euros ahead doing it that way! There are a lots of nice cars being sold here on FABO that could fit that bill. Just my 2 cents
 
everyone is going fimer than stock torsion bars nowdays, like 1.04's and quality shocks. Front suspension probably need the usual suspects, ball joints, ends and idler arm. What rear end do you have? A 2.76 rear with a single plane isnt going to make for a quick ride. 273 likes to rev so you need some gear under there, I like 3.55's Rust is common, just have to deal with it as it comes. They like to rust at base of rear window and front window corners. Adjust Lokar kickdown per manufactures instructions.
 
Drives poor
First, check that everything on the front suspension is tight. Typically, you need

Thanks for those infos. Yeah wouldn't it be easier to get the full kit when I would do a full disc conversion ? When I viewed the car the other day the shocks were new along with pitmans. Can't remember on the idlers, tie rods need definite replacement.

Would you happen to have a reference link for the MOPAR arm on the holley dominator ? Trying to find this online .

I can't remember on those old manual steering boxes but whats recommended for fluid , grease or no thought I remember something like bearing grease ? Not to worried about the AC , it doesnt get warm enough here for that. Would most likely get the new heater core (because reasons) and hook up the lines.

As to the rear end (eyeball guesstimate) 7 1/4 , I think.

Since the car is at an importers

I agree with you here, however importing into Ireland is a nightmare, don't get me started on the insurance and other conditions. They crazy anyway, want to ban all new sales on petrol and diesel new cars in 2030.... Would way rather be back home in the USA anyway or source something there as you said (but atm reasons unfortunately). The car is in England so generally for Ireland its a wave through with a rubber stamp for the registration , keep in mind this is still pre-brexit, which is why now that window may be closing, haha . Also lots of part suppliers there in England so I may get lucky, fingers crossed.

The condition on final sale and in the contract for final purchase was to get the car road ready and safe to drive as it still has to pass road inspection to be drive able on roads and get registered tags for England before I bring it here. The only damn good thing about the road inspection they have over here is for situations like this. I have no problems doing all the extra stuff later i.e. conversions and later corrections as a buddy of mine has his own shop lift which he'll let me use.

As barbee6043 said, maybe a pig with lipstick , then call me kermit. LOL
 
everyone is going fimer than stock torsion bars nowdays, like 1.04's and quality shocks. Front suspension probably need the usual suspects, ball joints, ends and idler arm. What rear end do you have? A 2.76 rear with a single plane isnt going to make for a quick ride. 273 likes to rev so you need some gear under there, I like 3.55's Rust is common, just have to deal with it as it comes. They like to rust at base of rear window and front window corners. Adjust Lokar kickdown per manufactures instructions.

Thanks , yeah as mentioned above think its the 7 1/4 still in it. At this point not to concerned on quick just decent cruising around. From my experience speed always tends to break stuff :) Then your always faster because your wallet always gets lighter. But yeah I'll get to quick later after getting the basics sorted .

Cheers.
 
It's a 55 year old car. Of course it will have some issues. As long as the structure and major items work and are solid, some suspension work and minor rust repairs are all part of the experience of owning an old muscle car. I'm sure a little elbow grease and a good once over will put the car in a good place and you'll having fun behind the wheel.
 
Do you have big plans for the car, like disc brakes, motor modifications or suspension modifications? Or are you intending to keep it simple, just repairing what you have? I always advise people to think about it and have a master plan of what they want from their car, what would make them happy, what can they afford? After determining that, then you will begin to see where to start. This will save you money in the long run because you won't waste your money on things you don't need. An early warning- calculate the cost of the project.........and then double it! It will always end up more expensive. Have a plan.
 
Remember even if the f. suspension is all good, bad alignment and uneven tires pressure an make it drive terrible, or wore out steering box.
I would invest in a FSM or find one to download off the puter maybe.
 
The Bad:
Overpriced
Lots of stuff missing (no heater, heater core you can see from the pics no hoses even into the firewall, wiper reservoir, just to name a few)
Brakes not working (Still on original drums, which not entirely bad looking at conversions)
Still on manual Steering which seemed loose p. (robably need to replace headers for conversion hooker headers in there now)

The Ugly:
Drives poor car was all over the road.
Bit of spot rust in some places everywhere else looked clean.
Going into reverse load whirring noise (sounds like a bent carrier or mount may be going, maybe exhaust? Hard to say right now)
Some inexcusable workarounds done like on the throttle, car accelerates very poorly.

And yet with all this stuff messed up they chose to undercoat it?
I'd be highly suspicious of the underside.
 
Do you have big plans for the car

At this stage KISS. Repair the items that need immediate attention. Want to keep the 273 and as much original as possible. The only major conversion I'm looking now is to disc brakes.

Remember even if the f. suspension is all good, bad alignment and uneven tires pressure an make it drive terrible, or wore out steering box.
I would invest in a FSM or find one to download off the puter maybe.

yep , looking for that stuff as well anyone has useful links , highly appreciated.

And yet with all this stuff messed up they chose to undercoat it?
I'd be highly suspicious of the underside.

Was originally as well, however the base looks really clean. The underside seems to have been done some time ago as well as the paint its not new or recent. There are hardly any rust spots anywhere except the few I posted, thoroughly went through the car there in out and underneath, even pulled up some of the carpeting. It almost seems that this was someones project in recent past and they stopped at like 70%.
 
Yeah your throttle linkage and probably kickdown linkage is all messed up. Hard parts to find in the correct original configuration, but not impossible. It should all look something like this.

273motor.jpg


Hot Rod 4044.jpg


kickdown.jpg


throttlebracket.jpg


1965Cuda18_1024x767.jpe
 
Original kickdown and throttle cables will not work. He has a Holley Street Dominator, not an OEM intake. The MOPAR arm is for the Edelbrock Carb, not the intake. If the suspension seems tight, double check everything, then look at tires and alignment. Not an OEM alignment but a High Performance alignment. There are quite a few threads here about alignment. As for disc brakes, I'd go with OEM Kelsey-Hays or an aftermarket if you want to keep the original small bolt pattern wheels. There should be factory service manuals on line, I have original paper ones.
 
then look at tires and alignment. Not an OEM alignment but a High Performance alignment. There are quite a few threads here about alignment. .

The threads on alignment here in the US may not even apply in the OP’s case as he is in Ireland where they drive on the left side. We have some UK members who might be able to help in that respect
 
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@66fs and @65s
Thank you'all so much thats exactly what I needed . My roots growing up are with Coronet, late Cuda(72) also a SuperB. I dont know the 273 or early Barracudas A bodies at well , imho from what I've read and heard its a small sweet kick ***.

@65 Dartman
Driving side doesnt matter still need an alignment. You know what an Irish speedhole is ? the god damn pothole in the road that'll bottom the car out, watch where you drive is the principal here. Seriously wonder where the road tax goes to and damn me , its expensive! Cheaper on classic American Steel than euros junk btw, makes me proud of our cars :)

I forgot an ugly picture and also here is the original video on the car before it left, if anyone here can source this or provide a history, than drinks on me :)

@all I can still walk away and lose nothing, this is the best forum , thanks to all for the insight here.

I forgot the ugly : wondering if this smacked someone. Thoughts ?

Also a video of the car before it left the US (It was sent to me from the importer, any further infos appreciated, looks like a Florida car?)



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we we’re in Dublin last year and the roads didn’t look to be in bad shape - maybe Dublin is where all your road tax money goes lol!
 
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we we’re in Bublin last year and the roads didn’t look to be in bad shape - maybe Dublin is where all your road tax money goes lol!

Way to for North for me :) But from what I hear down here in the South I guess thats about it , sadly with most countries thats the way it is :)
 
your car should have a rod for the throttle to manipulate the kickdown bellcrank and it is adjustable for length. Not sure how much different a street dominator carb location is from a stocker, maybe an inch? But the Lokar cable is not my favorite although it can work for people. Try and get an original rear head linkage bracket with the kickdown rods on the bellcrank. super simple and adjustable. youll only need to shorten the 1 rod and it is threaded. Street Dominator, 340 TQ and 273 AFB intakes shown with reference lines.
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Here is the factory kickdown style linkage: the shorter rod is the central mount 2bbl while the 1/2" longer rod reaches the front biased butterfly of the AFB. The opposite rod goes straight down to another trans mounted bellcrank that operated the kickdown lever of the transmission via a 3rd rod.

linkage.jpg
 
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Thanks to all for the feedback, exactly what I was looking for. Amazing how much I forgot about American Muscle over the years. I'll post back on success or not :)

Cheers!
 
Isnt it true if the kickdown linkage isnt set up right it will burn up the trans? Only asking cause I run 4 speed and truly dont know. I have heard this though, many years ago about Moapr automatics. In other words, I dont think id drive it without the kickdown linkage set up proiperly.
 
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