727 46RH conversion coming

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67dartgtgo

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Hi guys,
I've decided to do it this fall and have a rebuilt A518/46RH to replace my 727 with. Going in a 1967 Dart. I've done lots of research and will start a thread and try to do a good documentation on it when I get there.
I'll have some questions for the smart tranny guys.
My first one is are the 67/68 single pole 727 neutral safety switches a direct swap with the 46RH 3 pole switch? or will I have to change the rooster comb? The reverse switch is located in the console shifter in this car.
 
Also can a valve body be removed while the transmission is standing on its end, tc end down on the bell, without losing anything or creating any issues or is it not recommended?
 
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Hi guys,
I've decided to do it this fall and have a rebuilt A518/46RH to replace my 727 with. Going in a 1967 Dart. I've done lots of research and will start a thread and try to do a good documentation on it when I get there.
I'll have some questions for the smart tranny guys.
My first one is are the 67/68 single pole 727 neutral safety switches a direct swap with the 46RH 3 pole switch? or will I have to change the rooster comb? The reverse switch is located in the console shifter in this car.

Also can a valve body be removed while the transmission is standing on its end, tc end down on the bell, without losing anything or creating any issues or is it not recommended?

Single an 3 pole switches are not interchangable, but you might consider a neutral switch also in the console.
I think it would be a lot simpler than changing the trans stuff.

The valve body check balls are between the layers of the valve body and will not fall out from taking the VB off.
The only loose thing when you pull the VB is the accumulator spring and it's real obvious.
Yes you can pull the VB in any orientation without loosing anything.
 
Just use the hook up your neutral switch wire to the middle wire on the 3 wire terminal.
 
I wondered if it were possible to just use the center pole on the neutral safety but wasn’t sure if it’s been done. I was hoping the switches were interchangeable and would just lose the back up light circuit which I wouldn’t need anyway.
 
I wondered if it were possible to just use the center pole on the neutral safety but wasn’t sure if it’s been done. I was hoping the switches were interchangeable and would just lose the back up light circuit which I wouldn’t need anyway.

You could do it that way.
All the neutral safety function needs is a ground in neutral and park, and that's the center pole.
Don't know why I didn't think of that the first go around.:D
 
No worries at all trailbeast. I can just use the 3 pin pigtail and wire the center contact and be good to go.
 
How can you tell if your valve body has a shift kit installed.
 
How can you tell if your valve body has a shift kit installed.

Some kits have a different color separator plate for the valve body, but not all.
I modded my factory plate, so even though it has a kit it still looks bone stock.
You might take a look at the pressure regulator valve spring adjustment.
Compare it's position to a non kitted pressure valve adjustment, because most kits instruct to change that quite a bit.
If you can look up some of the kit instructions and see what they say about that might be a good idea.
 
Any updates?
What kind of updates are you thinking of? There is a ton of updates done on that transmission, including a change in the overdrive planetary kit by the factory. There were issues with the early design 22.5-degree tooth pitch to the late design 15-degree tooth pitch. The early design was a weak design, hence the change by the factory.
 
Any updates?

I’m getting ready to start the swap by the end of the month I think. I believe I’ve got all my parts but still get a little confused on the wiring with relays. Not my strongest suit. I may reach out to @TrailBeast for help with that as I like the way he wired his.
I’ve done a shift kit on the valve body, I have Hobbs pressure switches for the od/lu solenoids circuits and a vacuum interupt switch.
I’ve been replacing my front k member and suspension after rebuilding them so that’s taken some time. I also cut out my garbage headers and replaced them with trebligs manifolds.
I figure I’m not going to be driving this for a couple months anyway here in Massachusetts but have been reluctant to do the swap until the front end was done.
Thanks for asking and giving me motivation.
 
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Ok....mile high dart has been a huge inspiration for me so...it’s underway.
Took engine position measurements for reference prior to transmission removal.

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727 on it’s way out.
I set the engine at tdc on number 1 cylinder and removed the distributor after removing the torque converter bolts.

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727 out and side by side with the 46rh.
Measured them up and the difference in length is exactly 2 3/4”.
Have the driveshaft and yoke u-joints out and will have it shortened to match.

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What are trebligs manifolds please?
Trebligs manifold are a set of exhaust manifolds he use to sell here that consisted of a driver side 340 and a passenger side magnum that he milled out to 2 1/2” on the outlet for better flow. It allows you use eliminate headers on street cars with a minimal horsepower reduction and a stock look with more working room in those areas.

@transman what year did the 46RH change? I have an 88 for rebuilding? Thanks.
My 46RH is from a 95 Dakota. 96 was the changeover year to RE models. Your asking the right guy for sure on your 88. There’s a ton of info on A500 and A518 RH models here.
 
What are trebligs manifolds please?
Trebligs manifold are a set of exhaust manifolds he use to sell here that consisted of a driver side 340 and a passenger side magnum that he milled out to 2 1/2” on the outlet for better flow. It allows you use eliminate headers on street cars with a minimal horsepower reduction and a stock look with more working room in those areas.
I’m not sure if he still does this or has any more but it’s a very good option if you want to get rid of rusty old banged up headers.
 
I found this very comprehensive swap thread on the Cuda-challenger forum. Member Katfish Has an excellent wiring breakdown for controlling od&lu. He includes a fantastic parts used descriptions breakdown with part numbers and manufacturers. He’s using only one Hobbs pressure switch with two time delayed relays and a vacuum switch for circuit interrupt. I’ll be using this when the time comes.
727 to A518 swap – a novice guide
 
Made some progress this week. I left the crossmember section in place and cut out the sections between the bends, leaving the center strap. This allowed me to weld the center strap at the bends to retain that strength. I admit it doesn’t give you as much room as removing the whole section and welding a strap to the floor but it does retain some of the stock engineered strength and the original spotwelds remain in tact. I’ll clean it up a bit more before I POR15 the daylights out of it.

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Mock-up with 46fh in place. Pics are pretty dark but the clearance is ok. Floor was hammer modified to spec..lol
Pinion angle tbd but can remove motor mount shims to lower engine if needed.

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These were in it when I bought the car so when I replaced the motor mounts I put them back in. The engine placement measurements are pretty spot on but I assume they were placed there for the 727 pinion angle or maybe to get header clearance. The headers have since been removed for manifolds.

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